Wideband O2 sensor install
Evolving Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 361
Likes: 0
From: Kentucky
Hiya,
Just got done getting an Innovative Motorsports LM-1 Lambda Meter installed (with some help from Mac Autosport
). Turned out to be a lot easier than I had anticipated - actually I could almost swear 
anticipated this, hehe. The exhaust I'm using is a Vishnu Signature Series, but this procedure should work for most Evo exhausts. Here's basically what we had to do:
1. Weld the O2 bung to the end of the downpipe, basically mounting it right before the cat (which is where Innovative recommends it to be placed on a turbo car) and on top of the downpipe. Again, Innovative recommends that the O2 sensor be mounted above a horizontal plane, so I figure that mounting it vertically is perfect
2. Removed a rubber grommet located right above where the O2 sensor will mount. This opened up a passage right into the passenger-side footwell, terminating behind the center divider (I'll take a pic of the location later).
3. Mount the exhaust
4. Drop the O2 sensor down from inside the car (you may or may not have to make the existing hole larger). We ended up making the hole slightly larger on mine ... at 9pm we just didn't have the patience to try to fit it through the existing hole.
5. Screw the O2 sensor into the bung.
As it stands, the cable from the O2 sensor is exactly long enough to terminate right next to the glove box behind the dash. So far the LM-1 seems to be very accurate. On my dyno runs, I was using it to compare the AF readings of the dyno vs. the LM-1 and it looked right on. However I won't be able to tell exactly how accurate it is until I figure out how to get the logs into my computer and read them, hehe. I guess it's time to RTFM
l8r)
Just got done getting an Innovative Motorsports LM-1 Lambda Meter installed (with some help from Mac Autosport
). Turned out to be a lot easier than I had anticipated - actually I could almost swear anticipated this, hehe. The exhaust I'm using is a Vishnu Signature Series, but this procedure should work for most Evo exhausts. Here's basically what we had to do:1. Weld the O2 bung to the end of the downpipe, basically mounting it right before the cat (which is where Innovative recommends it to be placed on a turbo car) and on top of the downpipe. Again, Innovative recommends that the O2 sensor be mounted above a horizontal plane, so I figure that mounting it vertically is perfect
2. Removed a rubber grommet located right above where the O2 sensor will mount. This opened up a passage right into the passenger-side footwell, terminating behind the center divider (I'll take a pic of the location later).
3. Mount the exhaust
4. Drop the O2 sensor down from inside the car (you may or may not have to make the existing hole larger). We ended up making the hole slightly larger on mine ... at 9pm we just didn't have the patience to try to fit it through the existing hole.
5. Screw the O2 sensor into the bung.
As it stands, the cable from the O2 sensor is exactly long enough to terminate right next to the glove box behind the dash. So far the LM-1 seems to be very accurate. On my dyno runs, I was using it to compare the AF readings of the dyno vs. the LM-1 and it looked right on. However I won't be able to tell exactly how accurate it is until I figure out how to get the logs into my computer and read them, hehe. I guess it's time to RTFM
l8r)
To find a 12v switched source just get a 12v tester (normally a simple light tester that you can poke wires with will work fine). Then check a few wires by first making sure the light doesn't come on when the tester is attached.. then if the light comes on when you turn your ignition on you've got a switched 12v source. Just about everything electronic on the car has a 12v switched wire that you can tap, it just depends on where you are under the dash to find something. You can use a volt meter also, but I think the simple 12v light tester is easier to use.
I'm kind of confused on calibrating the LC-1 though. Did most of you do this before you installed it... like on a bench with a 12v battery? Or did you install everything including the LED and button then calibrate it? I know you have to have it disconnected first and then in free air for the calibrations which makes me think I'm going to just do it before I install it... but then I have to ground everything somewhere too and I'm not sure if it will matter if I change the ground to inside the car after calibrating.
I'm no electrician by any means... just trying to get this thing in and working correctly.
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Middle Georgie
As far as the power wiring, I would recommend looking for a spare switched 12 volt source in the fuse box. I think the heater on a Bosch wideband O2 sensor only uses about 10 Watts of power (less than 1 Amp at 12 Volts). Figure out the maximum current draw of everything you want to put on that output from the fuse box and put a slightly higher fuse in. That would be the safest way to wire it up.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: US
In reading the instructions for my LC-1 install, they suggest that the blue and white wires use the same ground slug and it be as close to the ecu's ground as possible. I thought, what the hell, and bought an ECU patch harness with the intention of tapping it's ground pin for the WB 02 sensor. While I'm at it, might as well use it as a 12v switched (and fused or course) source for the WB. Any objections?
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: US
In reading the instructions for my LC-1 install, they suggest that the blue and white wires use the same ground slug and it be as close to the ecu's ground as possible. I thought, what the hell, and bought an ECU patch harness with the intention of tapping it's ground pin for the WB 02 sensor. While I'm at it, might as well use it as a 12v switched (and fused or course) source for the WB. Any objections?
