Wideband O2 sensor install
Wiring Innovate LC-1
Just finished wiring my LC-1 tonight and thought I would share how I did it.
I grabbed the 12v switched power from the passenger side kick panel area. I popped off the lower door sill plastic, then the kick panel plastic. Behind the plastic kick panel, there is a white wire harness connector for the power windows. It's the uppermost connector. There is a heavier gauge yellow wire coming off the connector. It is a switched 12v. I used a yellow T-tap to grab power from it and ran my own red wire under the carpet over to the center consol area where I located my LC-1.
Attachment 122418
For the ground, I crimped the blue, white, and black (calibration wire) together into a single eyelet that I grounded to a bolt behind the center consol plastic under the glove box.
Attachment 122438
Side note: I wouldnt use the cigarette lighter for power because it is accessory power. It is powered when the key is turned to accessory. So, while you are sitting there with your car off listening to your stereo, your lc-1 will be on and sensor heated up. Its not the end of the world if you wire it that way, but this way is better and just as easy.
I grabbed the 12v switched power from the passenger side kick panel area. I popped off the lower door sill plastic, then the kick panel plastic. Behind the plastic kick panel, there is a white wire harness connector for the power windows. It's the uppermost connector. There is a heavier gauge yellow wire coming off the connector. It is a switched 12v. I used a yellow T-tap to grab power from it and ran my own red wire under the carpet over to the center consol area where I located my LC-1.
Attachment 122418
For the ground, I crimped the blue, white, and black (calibration wire) together into a single eyelet that I grounded to a bolt behind the center consol plastic under the glove box.
Attachment 122438
Side note: I wouldnt use the cigarette lighter for power because it is accessory power. It is powered when the key is turned to accessory. So, while you are sitting there with your car off listening to your stereo, your lc-1 will be on and sensor heated up. Its not the end of the world if you wire it that way, but this way is better and just as easy.
Just finished wiring my LC-1 tonight and thought I would share how I did it.
I grabbed the 12v switched power from the passenger side kick panel area. I popped off the lower door sill plastic, then the kick panel plastic. Behind the plastic kick panel, there is a white wire harness connector for the power windows. It's the uppermost connector. There is a heavier gauge yellow wire coming off the connector. It is a switched 12v. I used a yellow T-tap to grab power from it and ran my own red wire under the carpet over to the center consol area where I located my LC-1.
Attachment 122418
For the ground, I crimped the blue, white, and black (calibration wire) together into a single eyelet that I grounded to a bolt behind the center consol plastic under the glove box.
Attachment 122438
Side note: I wouldnt use the cigarette lighter for power because it is accessory power. It is powered when the key is turned to accessory. So, while you are sitting there with your car off listening to your stereo, your lc-1 will be on and sensor heated up. Its not the end of the world if you wire it that way, but this way is better and just as easy.
I grabbed the 12v switched power from the passenger side kick panel area. I popped off the lower door sill plastic, then the kick panel plastic. Behind the plastic kick panel, there is a white wire harness connector for the power windows. It's the uppermost connector. There is a heavier gauge yellow wire coming off the connector. It is a switched 12v. I used a yellow T-tap to grab power from it and ran my own red wire under the carpet over to the center consol area where I located my LC-1.
Attachment 122418
For the ground, I crimped the blue, white, and black (calibration wire) together into a single eyelet that I grounded to a bolt behind the center consol plastic under the glove box.
Attachment 122438
Side note: I wouldnt use the cigarette lighter for power because it is accessory power. It is powered when the key is turned to accessory. So, while you are sitting there with your car off listening to your stereo, your lc-1 will be on and sensor heated up. Its not the end of the world if you wire it that way, but this way is better and just as easy.
Only thing I would say about your power location is that the SAS system will keep power going to that yellow wire until ~3 minutes after your car is off or after the car is off and you open the door. Just something else to keep in mind!
I have a DC downpipe that has the cat delete. And at the end of it it looks like it has a perfect spot for a wideband 02 sensor? Its about 19 inches from the cat o2 sensor, would that be a good place for the wideband o2 to get a good reading?
I think the sensor needs to be installed between the 11 and 2 o'clock positions. Your O2 looks like it's at 9. Probably best to weld in one at 12 o'clock like the pics on this forum. Also looks like the 12 o'clock keeps things outta the way prett well too.
Problems!!
Everything is hooked up. Except I only did the power and ground wires.
On the little sheet it came with it said nothing about tapping into the ecu so I left those wires alone.
It turns on but it will read 11 then slowly it will climb to 19.2 and then just stay there. Driving around did nothing. I did not calibrate it because I was unaware until I read this thread.
Any suggestions?
Everything is hooked up. Except I only did the power and ground wires.
On the little sheet it came with it said nothing about tapping into the ecu so I left those wires alone.
It turns on but it will read 11 then slowly it will climb to 19.2 and then just stay there. Driving around did nothing. I did not calibrate it because I was unaware until I read this thread.
Any suggestions?
Evolving Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Europe
To the expert following question
I've mounted mine in these days. The sensor is working, although I see some issues
.
Basically the signal is oscillating between 12.5 and 14 (Logworks) and at stand (so where it should be controlled to 14.7 it shows 13.
Do I have a grounding problem??
I'll try to use another place to ground (currently the reinforcement bar above the ECU), but if you know more, please feedback
BR
mlocatel
I've mounted mine in these days. The sensor is working, although I see some issues
.Basically the signal is oscillating between 12.5 and 14 (Logworks) and at stand (so where it should be controlled to 14.7 it shows 13.
Do I have a grounding problem??
I'll try to use another place to ground (currently the reinforcement bar above the ECU), but if you know more, please feedback
BR
mlocatel
Just finished wiring my LC-1 tonight and thought I would share how I did it.
I grabbed the 12v switched power from the passenger side kick panel area. I popped off the lower door sill plastic, then the kick panel plastic. Behind the plastic kick panel, there is a white wire harness connector for the power windows. It's the uppermost connector. There is a heavier gauge yellow wire coming off the connector. It is a switched 12v. I used a yellow T-tap to grab power from it and ran my own red wire under the carpet over to the center consol area where I located my LC-1.
Attachment 122418
For the ground, I crimped the blue, white, and black (calibration wire) together into a single eyelet that I grounded to a bolt behind the center consol plastic under the glove box.
Attachment 122438
Side note: I wouldnt use the cigarette lighter for power because it is accessory power. It is powered when the key is turned to accessory. So, while you are sitting there with your car off listening to your stereo, your lc-1 will be on and sensor heated up. Its not the end of the world if you wire it that way, but this way is better and just as easy.
I grabbed the 12v switched power from the passenger side kick panel area. I popped off the lower door sill plastic, then the kick panel plastic. Behind the plastic kick panel, there is a white wire harness connector for the power windows. It's the uppermost connector. There is a heavier gauge yellow wire coming off the connector. It is a switched 12v. I used a yellow T-tap to grab power from it and ran my own red wire under the carpet over to the center consol area where I located my LC-1.
Attachment 122418
For the ground, I crimped the blue, white, and black (calibration wire) together into a single eyelet that I grounded to a bolt behind the center consol plastic under the glove box.
Attachment 122438
Side note: I wouldnt use the cigarette lighter for power because it is accessory power. It is powered when the key is turned to accessory. So, while you are sitting there with your car off listening to your stereo, your lc-1 will be on and sensor heated up. Its not the end of the world if you wire it that way, but this way is better and just as easy.