Can someone help me out by letting which lines Im suppose to cap off? The two lines going to my mbc? or the black & blue line on the fpr?

 

i would also like to know which lines to cap off for the test. thanks!!!

 

Very Cool

 

nice write up need to do this aswell

 

Nice write up... I'm looking to do this as well this weekend... Is it suppose to be at tdc when doing this so air wont bypass at valves?

 

Question, sorry if its been answered. When you do this can you just pressurize the intake tube (remove the maf and pressurize from there) or would that not work?

 

Thanks for the write up really simple and easy design. Well done good sir

 

That would work but your better off just going straight from the turbo, its not gonna hurt anything, also reason being is some people have different sized intake piping so its just universally easier to do it this way.

 

do the measurements match up with evo x and 9?

 

Stupid question but here goes.......if I don't have an air compressor could I maybe pump air into the system by using a bicycle pump? I am sure there isn't too much volume in the system and that should work sufficiently.....HOLLA!!!

 

Thanks for the write up very helpful

 

Yes, you can use that, just takes a little longer and of course a bit more effort.

I've filled street car tires in my garage with a bicycle pump before, it just takes forever.

 

remove the turbo out let hose pipe and pressurise from there , doing it on the turbo inlet is not a good idea

 

I was going to make one but I wanted a gauge, so I kicked down $40 for a fancy one.

 

I finally got around to doing this and made a modification. It's a bit more work but possibly a better starting point as far as sealing goes.

I used the same 1.5 to 2 coupler but used a 2" cap style plug instead http://www.homedepot.com/p/Mueller-S...20HC/100208636 (note that the picture is not a good representation, it is not staggered nearly as much. UPC is 012871628825)

This required cutting the cap in half (the height of it is pretty much the entire depth of the 2" side of the coupler). Once done however, you have a 90 degree edge on the cap sealing against the 90 degree edge inside the coupler (I threw some sealant in there was well for good measure). To eliminates any issues with sealing against threads from the original plug design... all mating surfaces are flush/smooth contact.

Again it's a bit more work since you have to cut the plug/cap in half and about $2 more, but for me it seemed worth the effort versus fighting the threads.