woo my megan o2 housing is on order. looking forward to using this. thanks a bunch jameson!

 

Agreed. I could not get a wrench on the back nut like the write up said. The angle just wouldn't allow it. But I noticed the same as you, take the L-bracket off and use the extension and swivel to get a fairly straight shot at it.

I removed the intake and just the one upper pipe. Then after removing the fan control module, I just bent the one long tab down and removed the bolt holding the intercooler pipe on. If you have someone pull up slightly on the pipe you can sneak the radiator up and out with the fan still attached. The tab just bends right back, and its not that flimsy so it won't break.

I also didn't have to heat any bolts. PB Blaster is your best friend. Take the Radiator Out first so that you can get the heat shields off. Then hit every single nut and bolt with it. Then take about a 45 minute lunch break and that gives the PB time to work its magic, with no heat. Of course some cars that are extra rusty will absolutely require heat. Just pray you are lucky and its alot easier.

Here's some pics of my install following these instructions and doing the extra's mentioned above:

 

Thanks for the pics! My car is new w/ less than 4.5k mi and it absolutely required a torch. Perhaps it depends on your local climate. Florida is often humid. As far as the rear bolts, I definately used a open ended wrench. It was the kind that is slanted at about a 10 degree slant near the end. It is possible/slow.

 

Was removing the intake only to be able to removing the radiator and UICP?

 

^ Yes. The fan is offset to the drivers side and the brackets hit things on the way out. The UICP and Intake might have to come out. I left my UICP in but it is the ETS short route and was not in the way of the fan housing.

 

*subscribes* thanks for the how to and detailed pics! i'll be doing this soon....

 

Can't wait to do this...yippie!!! Thanks for the How-To!

 

Might be wise to put anti-sieze on the bolts just in case you need to remove it

 

Just did mine tonight along with my Forge WGA install. Mine went pretty much as described except I didn't need heat either. I also had a problem getting my uppermost bolt facing the radiator in. I have the Buschur/eBay one not the Megan and the welds were in the way of getting the bolt all the way in. I just used a medium file and filed away at the welds and that left me enough room to grind down a 14mm socket to get the bolt in. I still have the car on jackstands but I will take it out tomorrow and try it out. Just need to remember to turn my EBC off with the new WGA....

 

Im only halfway done after about 6 hours (but there was a bit of lunch, parts obtaining, and an hour boring the hole on my Buschur DP...). I did not require heat either, and liquid wrench in all its derivatives is a beautiful thing. Also, instead of bending the fan control mount point (IMO a bad idea...) or removing any intercooler hard lines, just take the fan off! Only two bolts up top and with a little shakin and bakin and another set of hands, both can come off at the same time! I better get some hp for all this...

 

what a huge help

 

I was going to change out my o2 sensor and it broke off in the housing so had to put my Megan housing with Swain Tech coating on. This write up saved my life. I did not need a blow torch either and just used liquid wrench as well.Having a lift helped out a lot because I could get wrenches on the bolts and use a breaker bar to loosen them. From 10 am to 4 PM had me about halfway done, I just have to reassemble everything which will be tomorrow. So you dont use the bolts that come with the Megan but the stock ones?

 

I re-used the stockers, they seem to be much better quality than the ones supplied with the Megan.

 

Amazing write-up! How long did this replacement take you?

 

Very nice Write up man! Always good to have these done