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How-To: EGR Removal VIII/IX (and charcoal/EVAP canister)

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Old Jun 2, 2012, 07:15 AM
  #211  
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Originally Posted by 619evoboy
Can someone post pics on how everthing lookes installed? Want to make sure i got everything right.
Im alittle confused on what you want to see?? Theirs pics on the thread of how it looks with no evap... Lol its more how it looks uninstalled... Are you looking for pics of the manifold? Because if thats the case ill post pics but i have aagnus manifold and you dont see anything that will help you with wether or not you installed it right... Please explain what your looking for
Old Jun 2, 2012, 06:18 PM
  #212  
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Im running stock manifold ported, and this part scares me about the limited access to your fuel. Want to make sure i what its talking about below hooked up correctly.

Optional: Place the check valve with the side that was connected toward the intake manifold VTA and the other end on the EVAP purge line that comes into the engine bay (the fat one where it would connect to the bracket). This check valve will allow vapors out while letting nothing back into the fuel system. This valve may become stuck closed and clogged if left open to air in a dirty environment, but this may be better than whatever clogged it having limited access to your fuel system. If you are planning on removing the charcoal canister do not do this step and see the note below about this check valve.
Old Jun 2, 2012, 08:56 PM
  #213  
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Originally Posted by 619evoboy
Im running stock manifold ported, and this part scares me about the limited access to your fuel. Want to make sure i what its talking about below hooked up correctly.

Optional: Place the check valve with the side that was connected toward the intake manifold VTA and the other end on the EVAP purge line that comes into the engine bay (the fat one where it would connect to the bracket). This check valve will allow vapors out while letting nothing back into the fuel system. This valve may become stuck closed and clogged if left open to air in a dirty environment, but this may be better than whatever clogged it having limited access to your fuel system. If you are planning on removing the charcoal canister do not do this step and see the note below about this check valve.
Check out post 205 attachments
IM has nothing to do with that... its to do with the charcoal canister, either install the check valve that can clog or install a filter like post 205 and you will be all good to go
Sorry I was confused on what you wanted to see before
Old Jun 5, 2012, 10:23 PM
  #214  
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I read true all 15 pages and some one asked this already but i don't think anyone answered this is my deal i just both a used map rev3 intake many with full blown 70mm tb i never really thought of deleting egr before this so my question is can i tap and plug the hole in the head and put a block of plate between the egr valve and intake manifold and cap the 2 throttle body lines and leave everything else connected as is what issues would i ran into to if any plz somebody comment on this i would want to leave everything on there for a few reasons mainly CA thanx a lot
Old Jun 6, 2012, 06:09 PM
  #215  
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Just replaced my intake manifold again...wish I wouldve done the plug in the EGR port... FML
Old Jun 6, 2012, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ivan22
I read true all 15 pages and some one asked this already but i don't think anyone answered this is my deal i just both a used map rev3 intake many with full blown 70mm tb i never really thought of deleting egr before this so my question is can i tap and plug the hole in the head and put a block of plate between the egr valve and intake manifold and cap the 2 throttle body lines and leave everything else connected as is what issues would i ran into to if any plz somebody comment on this i would want to leave everything on there for a few reasons mainly CA thanx a lot
can some one plz help me out with this really need to know im about start swapping the manifolds but i'm worried if i plug the hole, install block off plate and cap the 2 vac lines on tb and then leave everything else connected as is i might run into some issues some one plz comment on this thanks a lot
Old Jun 7, 2012, 08:52 AM
  #217  
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why don't you just finish off the whole uninstall? it's really simple, you can still pass emissions testing. you could leave the stuff all bolted onto the manifold, but have it actually disabled, for a visual check.
Old Jun 7, 2012, 09:08 AM
  #218  
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Thanx for reply well I want to leve it mainly that I do live in ca I was originally going to go with map rev 3 and milspec 65mm tb and leave it all there but I got a really good deal on rev3/full blown 70mm tb and that trotle body doesn't have the 2 lines for egr so there for whant it to know if I could plug the whole in the head imstall the heat reducer gascket and then put a plate between the egr valve and intake many and leave everything connected but wondering if I'm going to ran into any ishues doing it this way or should I plug the hole in the head,use a blOck of plate and leave everything else on stock intake manifold and just leave the evap system so if I have to il just swap the stock im/tb for inspection I'm little confused wouldn't really like to keep swapping manifolds and stuf
Old Jun 12, 2012, 12:36 PM
  #219  
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Originally Posted by ivan22
Thanx for reply.

I want to leve it mainly that I do live in ca. I was originally going to go with map rev 3 and milspec 65mm tb and leave it all there but I got a really good deal on rev3/full blown 70mm tb.

That throttle body doesn't have the 2 lines for egr. I wanted to know if I could:
-plug the hole in the head
-install the heat reducer gasket
-put a plate between the egr valve and intake manifold and leave everything connected

...but I'm wondering if I'm going to ran into any issues doing it this way.

-OR- should I

-plug the hole in the head
-use a block off plate
-leave everything else on stock intake manifold and just leave the evap system so if I have to il just swap the stock im/tb for inspection

I'm little confused wouldn't really like to keep swapping manifolds and stuff
Periods, punctuation, and white space man! It would help answer your question a ton if it was at all readable.

It sounds like your only dilemma is whether or not you can pass inspection. No one here can answer that for you... only the inspector can. The only difference I see in the above to sets of options is putting in a block-off plate. If you already have the hole in the head filled then you have no need for a block off.

Old Jun 14, 2012, 01:47 PM
  #220  
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can someone tell me what im doin wrong on my ecu settings i cant change any of the numbers in the periphery tables. and user level is set to developer.thanks in advance also this was a weight savings on 10.9 pounds on a 06 evo9 i weighed it all last night.
Old Jul 2, 2012, 10:18 AM
  #221  
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Ran into some issues, did this friday. No codes car was idling 14.5-14.7 & 12.3 @ wot. Today its idling12.8- 12.9 & 10.8 @ wot. No codes popping up so the ecuflash worked but seems like its running off limp mode map now?
Old Jul 2, 2012, 11:57 AM
  #222  
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Originally Posted by kaonashi
Ran into some issues, did this friday. No codes car was idling 14.5-14.7 & 12.3 @ wot. Today its idling12.8- 12.9 & 10.8 @ wot. No codes popping up so the ecuflash worked but seems like its running off limp mode map now?
Isles running normal but @ wot I'm still getting 10' s on afr
Old Jul 7, 2012, 03:50 PM
  #223  
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quick question. when you bypass the fuel pressure solenoid do you leave it plugged in or can you unplug it?
Old Jul 8, 2012, 05:58 AM
  #224  
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I discomnected mine, no need at all when runnong manual fpr. But a code will obvioisly be set lol i personally havent tuned out the codes yet cause i have a aem waiting to be installed

Last edited by foxbear2277; Jul 8, 2012 at 06:03 AM.
Old Jul 8, 2012, 10:23 PM
  #225  
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I also removed mine from the car, and set the periphery to not fire the EGR incurred FPR solenoid. If you don't remove all of the EGR stuff I'd guess to just leave it in the car plugged in, but disabled via periphery.


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