How-To: EGR Removal VIII/IX (and charcoal/EVAP canister)
Oct 31, 2009, 04:26 AM
#32
Frost, What about just disabling it in the ROM, either though ECU Peripheries or using what lemmonhead said in your first post
".......disable it in the prom. This is done by setting the minimum temperature to enable EGR to 151 degrees Celsius (maximum allowable temperature), and setting the minimum vehicle speed to enable EGR to 255 mph (maximum allowable speed). Since the engine will never reach either of these conditions, EGR will never be requested by the ECM. Since EGR will never be requested, it does not matter if you leave the EGR system all installed in its original place, or if you remove it from the car. If you decide to remove it, you will need an EGR block off plate to cover the hole in the intake manifold. "
I might wanna get rid of the EGR system but dont wanna uninstall or remove anything, being that I live in CA (SMOG and cops make you pop your hood at times, etc). So I wanna leave everything there, but just make it "stop working" using the ECU
".......disable it in the prom. This is done by setting the minimum temperature to enable EGR to 151 degrees Celsius (maximum allowable temperature), and setting the minimum vehicle speed to enable EGR to 255 mph (maximum allowable speed). Since the engine will never reach either of these conditions, EGR will never be requested by the ECM. Since EGR will never be requested, it does not matter if you leave the EGR system all installed in its original place, or if you remove it from the car. If you decide to remove it, you will need an EGR block off plate to cover the hole in the intake manifold. "
I might wanna get rid of the EGR system but dont wanna uninstall or remove anything, being that I live in CA (SMOG and cops make you pop your hood at times, etc). So I wanna leave everything there, but just make it "stop working" using the ECU
Oct 31, 2009, 05:15 PM
#35
maybe my imagination.. but i could SWEAR my car smelled like exhaust in the car, a LOT, when EGR was enabled. i was thinking... maybe one of my vacuum lines were leaking... like on one of the boost gauges (i have OEM and my Autometer), so that when they were seeing boost, i was also getting some exhaust coming through.
so.. if the EGR is letting exhaust into the intake mani.. couldn't it be coming through the vacuum line, and leaking at one of those gauges?
all i know is i've disabled EGR and no more smell.
Oct 31, 2009, 05:22 PM
#36
thats what i have, maybe everybody adds, what he's got.
I will add it to the wiki when nothingnew is coming.
It's good when everybody adds comments to each bit,
if you know the the functions. Just names are sometimes
not enough to understand what it does.
Just quote the stuff below and make you changes.
f9a
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
0
faa
15
14
13
12
11: Disable egr / enabled ign adv (set 1)
10
9:enable warmup ign retard
8
8:enable high oct ign map lookup (and many other subroutines)
7:"wg solenoid? Enable speed limit test"
6:5
5:immobilizer enabled?
3
2
1
0
fba
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7:lean spool
6
5:2nd thermo table
switchs to another table for speed vs temp table. In most roms its the same as the 1st table
4
3
2
1
0
fca
15: p0443, p0446, p0403, p0243, p0090, p2263
14: p0450, p0451, p0452, p0453 evap
13: p0441, p0442 evap
12:
11: p0031, p0032, p0037, p0038
10: p1400 map sensor
9: p0401 egr test
8: p0506, p0507 idle test
7: p0170 (p0171, p0172)
6: p0134 front o2
5: p0000 - or with 4
4: p0000 - or with 5
3: p0132, p0136 o2
2: p0133, p0159
1: p0421 not in fsm
0:
fda
15: p0128 ct below reg
14: p1603 battery backup
13:
12:
11: p0180 - p0183, p0461, p2066 fuel sensors
10:
9:
8:
7: p0551 ps pressure
6: p0500 speed sens
5:
4:
3:
2: p0234, p0243, p2263
1: p0510 not in fsm
0: p1715, p1750, etc
fea
15: p0140 rear o2 no act
14: p0069 map vs baro
13: p0111 iat circuit
12: p0554 ps press sens
11: p1530 a/c1 switch
10:
9:
8: p0830 clutch pedal circuit
7: p0090 fuel pressure circuit
6:
5:
4:
3:
2:
1:
0:
I will add it to the wiki when nothingnew is coming.
It's good when everybody adds comments to each bit,
if you know the the functions. Just names are sometimes
not enough to understand what it does.
Just quote the stuff below and make you changes.
f9a
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
0
faa
15
14
13
12
11: Disable egr / enabled ign adv (set 1)
10
9:enable warmup ign retard
8
8:enable high oct ign map lookup (and many other subroutines)
7:"wg solenoid? Enable speed limit test"
6:5
5:immobilizer enabled?
3
2
1
0
fba
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7:lean spool
6
5:2nd thermo table
switchs to another table for speed vs temp table. In most roms its the same as the 1st table
4
3
2
1
0
fca
15: p0443, p0446, p0403, p0243, p0090, p2263
14: p0450, p0451, p0452, p0453 evap
13: p0441, p0442 evap
12:
11: p0031, p0032, p0037, p0038
10: p1400 map sensor
9: p0401 egr test
8: p0506, p0507 idle test
7: p0170 (p0171, p0172)
6: p0134 front o2
5: p0000 - or with 4
4: p0000 - or with 5
3: p0132, p0136 o2
2: p0133, p0159
1: p0421 not in fsm
0:
fda
15: p0128 ct below reg
14: p1603 battery backup
13:
12:
11: p0180 - p0183, p0461, p2066 fuel sensors
10:
9:
8:
7: p0551 ps pressure
6: p0500 speed sens
5:
4:
3:
2: p0234, p0243, p2263
1: p0510 not in fsm
0: p1715, p1750, etc
fea
15: p0140 rear o2 no act
14: p0069 map vs baro
13: p0111 iat circuit
12: p0554 ps press sens
11: p1530 a/c1 switch
10:
9:
8: p0830 clutch pedal circuit
7: p0090 fuel pressure circuit
6:
5:
4:
3:
2:
1:
0:
Nov 2, 2009, 07:49 AM
#37
Frost, What about just disabling it in the ROM, either though ECU Peripheries or using what lemmonhead said in your first post
".......disable it in the prom. This is done by setting the minimum temperature to enable EGR to 151 degrees Celsius (maximum allowable temperature), and setting the minimum vehicle speed to enable EGR to 255 mph (maximum allowable speed). Since the engine will never reach either of these conditions, EGR will never be requested by the ECM. Since EGR will never be requested, it does not matter if you leave the EGR system all installed in its original place, or if you remove it from the car. If you decide to remove it, you will need an EGR block off plate to cover the hole in the intake manifold. "
I might wanna get rid of the EGR system but dont wanna uninstall or remove anything, being that I live in CA (SMOG and cops make you pop your hood at times, etc). So I wanna leave everything there, but just make it "stop working" using the ECU
".......disable it in the prom. This is done by setting the minimum temperature to enable EGR to 151 degrees Celsius (maximum allowable temperature), and setting the minimum vehicle speed to enable EGR to 255 mph (maximum allowable speed). Since the engine will never reach either of these conditions, EGR will never be requested by the ECM. Since EGR will never be requested, it does not matter if you leave the EGR system all installed in its original place, or if you remove it from the car. If you decide to remove it, you will need an EGR block off plate to cover the hole in the intake manifold. "
I might wanna get rid of the EGR system but dont wanna uninstall or remove anything, being that I live in CA (SMOG and cops make you pop your hood at times, etc). So I wanna leave everything there, but just make it "stop working" using the ECU
Ideally, I believe the best way is to use the disable EGR bit that was posted (NOT PERIPHERY) if you just want to disable it. ECU mods should allow for passing any plugin test. You may want to zip tie the lines on to make sure they don't blow off.
yeah.. i can't remember which peripheries to use, though.
maybe my imagination.. but i could SWEAR my car smelled like exhaust in the car, a LOT, when EGR was enabled. i was thinking... maybe one of my vacuum lines were leaking... like on one of the boost gauges (i have OEM and my Autometer), so that when they were seeing boost, i was also getting some exhaust coming through.
so.. if the EGR is letting exhaust into the intake mani.. couldn't it be coming through the vacuum line, and leaking at one of those gauges?
all i know is i've disabled EGR and no more smell.
maybe my imagination.. but i could SWEAR my car smelled like exhaust in the car, a LOT, when EGR was enabled. i was thinking... maybe one of my vacuum lines were leaking... like on one of the boost gauges (i have OEM and my Autometer), so that when they were seeing boost, i was also getting some exhaust coming through.
so.. if the EGR is letting exhaust into the intake mani.. couldn't it be coming through the vacuum line, and leaking at one of those gauges?
all i know is i've disabled EGR and no more smell.
If you are under boost the EGR *should* be closed anyway, but the amount of air going into the runner for that cylinder under boost would never allow EGR gasses back through that far.
Nov 2, 2009, 05:23 PM
#38
I took the time to install a ported 65mm TB, intake manifold, and heat barrier gasket, i even plugged the egr hole on the head. What a pain in the **** the intake manifold install is lol ..took me all day.
Still got more stuff to install and not looking forward to it hahahah
Still got more stuff to install and not looking forward to it hahahah
Nov 3, 2009, 06:56 AM
#39
he wants to know if it's okay to use an EGR block off plate, plug the hole in the head, yet still leave all the equipment hooked up. probably to pass the smog ref, etc.
granted. but "v7" was a lot easier to type than "v7 with the Phenem or R3compile definitions added". at this point, i just kinda assumed he would know what i meant. next time i'll be more specific.
The chance for those gasses to get back into the IM, not get sucked up immediately by the adjacent cylinder, make it all the way back through a vacuum line and make it into the cabin and THEN have a big enough leak in that line that you can smell it seem immensely small. It is possible it was leaking from somewhere else, but I think you've got a placebo effect.
If you are under boost the EGR *should* be closed anyway, but the amount of air going into the runner for that cylinder under boost would never allow EGR gasses back through that far.
good to know. the less issues my car has the better 
. as for placebo, i never expected that to be the issue. just putting the appearance/disappearance of the gasses together with the only change i made on the car.
at this point, i just kinda assumed he would know what i meant. next time i'll be more specific. The chance for those gasses to get back into the IM, not get sucked up immediately by the adjacent cylinder, make it all the way back through a vacuum line and make it into the cabin and THEN have a big enough leak in that line that you can smell it seem immensely small. It is possible it was leaking from somewhere else, but I think you've got a placebo effect.
If you are under boost the EGR *should* be closed anyway, but the amount of air going into the runner for that cylinder under boost would never allow EGR gasses back through that far.
. as for placebo, i never expected that to be the issue. just putting the appearance/disappearance of the gasses together with the only change i made on the car.
Nov 21, 2009, 01:17 PM
#41
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I bought this from Autozone and it came with everything I needed cap wise. Minus the 12mm cap, but I vented mine differently anyway. For $6.99 and 5 of each size, they'll be handy.
Jan 9, 2010, 04:07 PM
#42
Additional information:
If following the diagram above, you can remove the evaporative emission purge solenoid and evaporative canister as well. In doing so, you will remove 4-5 lbs from the car. You simply need to plug the port on the intake manifold, and vent the evaporative hose coming into the engine bay. The canister itself can be removed and the source hose to the canister vented as seen here:
If following the diagram above, you can remove the evaporative emission purge solenoid and evaporative canister as well. In doing so, you will remove 4-5 lbs from the car. You simply need to plug the port on the intake manifold, and vent the evaporative hose coming into the engine bay. The canister itself can be removed and the source hose to the canister vented as seen here:
The weight saved by pulling the evap canister crap in the back of the Evo is actually 8.25 lb... a good chunk of weight. I used a very short piece of hose to connect it back together, so very little weight was added back in.
Jan 11, 2010, 10:52 PM
#43
Just did this today - thanks for the tutorial!
The weight saved by pulling the evap canister crap in the back of the Evo is actually 8.25 lb... a good chunk of weight. I used a very short piece of hose to connect it back together, so very little weight was added back in.
The weight saved by pulling the evap canister crap in the back of the Evo is actually 8.25 lb... a good chunk of weight. I used a very short piece of hose to connect it back together, so very little weight was added back in.
