car852

that helps thanks.

what are the chances of the valves being bent from trying to start the car with screwed up timing

scumbee

iTrader: (15)

bravo bravo nice write up

crthomas1952

Looks like I made the wrong move by having a local mechanic put the new timing belt on. (should this be done at 60k on an '03 Evo?) As soon as I got in afterward, I could tell there was something wrong. The vibration is pretty subtle, almost unnoticable below 3,ooo rpm, and not so bad up from there. But when I put the clutch in to upshift there is a pretty bad vibratrion that is worse the higher the rpm above 3,000. Customer service guy at rock auto tells me the balance shaft is not right.
Is this where the turning the crankshaft 3 full turns comes in? Any advice on what I can tell him to help him get it right?
Same thing happenned with my '93 laser RS, except the vibration was really bad when it hit 3,000 during acceleration, even without hitting the clutch. Same issue? (That was a different machanic; took it back 3 times, no help, switched shops after that.)

juanpdu

good info. you should add that when realising the pin from the auto tensioner the value of the pin A (between the tensioner arm and the auto tensioner body) should be 0.15-0.18 in.
nice post

dotman05

iTrader: (36)

great write up love the pics..its soo much fun doing a timing belt on the ground with out a lift..

blkmkIII

iTrader: (34)

I am dead smack in the middle of the install. Have yet to get the oem belts off yet, I seems as though I have to pull the power steering pump/bracket. For whatever reason mitsubishi decided that putting the bracket 1/2 way over the i guess they are idlers (theres one on the left and the right timing belt guide i guess. I dont think i can get a tool in there also. ? fact? its an evo ix.
BOTTOM OF STEP 6
"Remove Generator Brace, Qty3 12mm. Note: insert the really long screw back into place once the brace is removed. This will keep coolant from seeping out." ?????????????????????
what is this? the alternator brace?

Oki Panoki

iTrader: (8)

..

Murph

iTrader: (4)

Excellent write up with good pictures to go along with it . Should be of great help to anyone with questions about doing this job.


Murph

700+whp

ok, so has anyone found an easy way to get that water pump pulley off? i keep trying with a 10 mm wrench, for some reason i just can't hold the damn thing still.

JakeTheVIII

iTrader: (35)

Try having a friend hold it with 2 hands while you get the bolt loose. Or put the belt back on, tension it, and that should hold it still

10isace

iTrader: (12)

I'm also in the middle of this. I can't remove the power steering pump. I removed 4 bolts, but it looks like a 5th bolt on top that doesn't have enough room to turn. Help!!!
Were you able to get it removed?

Z_Lancer_Man

iTrader: (115)

I didn't bother with the idler pulleys behind the steering pump. Hopefully you can figure it out.

10isace

iTrader: (12)

Removed it! It was a pain, but it was worth it. My pulley idler was bad. If I ever finish this job I'll do a write up on removing the power steering pump.

BrdgstneEngr

iTrader: (3)

10isace, Any tips to getting that power steering pump off? Ihaven't started it yet, i was able to get the lower tb cover off leaving it all bolted up, but I think ill need more room to get it back on.

thanks,

Jimmy

51

iTrader: (8)

Just did the t-belt, bal belt & drive belt on my IX yesterday. It was not that bad to do. I did not have to do that oil pump hole thing I just used a white out to mark the old t-belt & bal belt with the gears & then matched it with the new t-belt & bal belt & installed back using the white out marks. Watch out for that exh cam gear as it will move if you do not secure it. Only weird thing that happened is once I got everything back together the car would not start but cranks. I pulled the top cover off & lined up the cam gear with the marks & then disconneted the neg batt cable for 10 secs & then the car started. Not really sure what happened there but the car runs now.