I figured so. Thanks for the verification.

 

So Im currently doing my evo 9 with the mivec. I noticed that the cam sprung forward when i removed the belt. Upon reinstall, I had to push it back in to position. Is this what you experienced. I don't recall the manual mentioning this. It seems the manual that I have is references the evo 8 install and so does yours unless I'm reading this wrong.

Also, when working with the tensioner, have you experienced issues with pulling the pin out after you wait the 15 minutes. I set the tensioner pully to pull the intake cam back in to position, and I wasn't able to use a reversible torque wrench so I just set it where it looked and felt tight. After I waited the 15 minutes the pin would not enter the tensioner and according to the manual it is suppose to. Right now I feel like just leaving it as is cause i don't have time to not have it running, and can't seem to get a hold of anybody who has done this task before.

 

Yeah as long as you line up the tdc marks when you install the belt it will be fine.

I wouldn't put it back without correct tension. You can destroy your motor if the belt slips. You should get the tools that lock the cam gears into place. Makes it much easier.

 

Do it over so you can sleep at night, if anything were to happen you're going to be pissed at yourself

 

Yeah this is one of those things I would rather just get it right the first time. I bought the cam locker tool from MAP I think. It's awesome and 100% worth every cent you spend on it. Makes this job way easier.

 

Nice write up

 

Thanks OP for the write-up. Since all the photo are now gone on this thread, I went ahead and made a How-to video for the timing belt job.

 

So this being My 6th attempt on getting the tension set correctly, for the auto tensioner I put pressure on the timing belt pulley, enough to be able to remove and insert the pin, turn the motor over a couple times and reinsert it afternoon waiting a few minutes. However when I press down on the belt between the cam gears, the belt seems to have way to much slack, and I'm worried that if I put everything back together and drive with it it may jump time. Will the auto tensioner tighten up after the motor is started? I adjusted the tensioner pulley further than recommended to get more slack out of the belt, but I cannot put the pin back in and the auto tensioner shaft is pressed in fairly far into the body. I have to use a vise to squeeze the tensioner in, so I don't think it's faulty. My main question is, am I just setting the assembled tension on the belt, and then will adjust itself when the motor is running?

 

No, you need to tension the belt at the right degree before you start the car, if the belt is too loose, it will jump tooth and bent valves will be the result.









Marios

 

Yes, too much slack is my issue. I set the tension per manual instruction, being able to insert the pin in after fifteen minutes. Doing a quick measurement between the cam gears, I am able to push the belt down .25" inch. This feels like way too much slack to me. But I am at a loss because my auto tensioner is still very stiff. My thought being the belt overtime should loosen up and stretch really only needing the auto tensioner to extend out. So if I put tighter tension on the belt at the pulley, I will loose the ability for the auto tensioner to retract if need be.

 

Thanks for the write-up, this helped a ton.

 

I HATE to bring this up from the dead, but can anyone confirm this? Is it 100% needed to remove the crank bolt (22mm) to get the crank gear off so you can actually put in a new balance shaft belt? Is there enough room to finagle the balance shaft belt in behind the crank gear without removing it?

 

I can confirm that you can replace the balance shaft belt without removing the crank gear and sensing blade. There are two protrusions on the front case that get close to the sensing blade and prevent you from removing the belt at TDC. You need to rotate the crankshaft clockwise and counter-clockwise slightly so the raised sections of the sensing blade clear these protrusions allowing you to remove the belt and reinstall.

You need to be extremely careful not to bend the sensing blade and only move the crank slightly.

 

I LITERALLY just came in to check the torque specs for various timing belt parts and was going to respond that yes indeed, it definitely does work not having to take that crank gear/sensing blade off. You're 100% right with everything as described!

 

well im not sure how old this thread is but i found it useful to break the bolts loose before removing the serpentine belt