HOW TO: Timing Belt, Balancer Shaft Belt, and Accessory Belt Replacement
Feb 6, 2011, 12:04 AM
#32
Evolving Member
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Seattle
Posts: 145
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Any reason in the pic that you're removing the trigger wheel its backwards? The shop I paid to do the timing on my motor installed the trigger wheel backwards and it kept hitting the Crank angle sensor and throwing 3 codes. I guess for most ppl fallowing this right up will be smart enough to put their plate back on the way it came from the factory but in a position like mine I couldn't figure out if it was for sure backwards till I went to the dealer and got some diagrams along with Aaron from English racing verifying that it is indeed backwards throwing the trigger wheel off enough to hit the CAS and the trigger wheel isn't gonna read right being on backwards obviously. Not even sure how the car runs because you time the crank off the notch on the wheel.
Feb 27, 2011, 03:40 PM
#33
FYI: A few tips for you snow belters / higher mileage and the rest of us:
-Spray the back of the bolt that goes through the accessory tensioner with PB blaster before you start to take it out. If it gets stuck, you'l be doing an oil change also (at best) since it bolts into the oil filter housing. In case you need to bolt's PN its MD374022 (this is the 14mm one).
-I used carquest PN stl46000 (C clip pliers) on the timing belt tensioner pulley. With the tensioner tool inserted I could rest their handle on the oil pump pulley center bolt for perfect tension. Any pair of C-clip pliers should do if it will fit in the holes. You can also grind down a pair of standard right angle pliers, but the whole kit of tools can be found for pretty cheap online.
-In case there is a problem with the bolt that goes through the crank sprocket it has been superseded by Mits PN 1101a022 which is a smaller head and no 1/2 socket in the middle. ARP produces a bolt in the old style.
-If you are doing the water pump also I would do it right before where you take off the balance shaft belt. You'll need a gasket and an O-ring with it (that are included with the mitsubishiparts.net kit).
-I have an Exedy Twin, so when torquing the crank bolt there was a ton of spring action, even with the car in gear and the brakes on. I put a 14mm on the oil pump bolt, pushed the 22mm forward, held with the oil pump, then was able to push forward again with enough force for the required torque... I highly recommend just making a tool from L stock beforehand.
-If for some reason you go out of time set the cam gears, then crank and balance shaft, then oil pump and you should be fine. It is 17 belt teeth from mark to mark on the cams (count the one that is in the middle of a tooth for the intake timing).
And the one that turned this into 2 timing belt jobs:
-If you do the water pump fill everything back up BEFORE you put the car back together. The bolts on the water pump are all grade 4 except for the top left and bracket bolt (grade 7). Bolt sizes are according to depth... be careful, some are only 1/8" difference in size.
-Spray the back of the bolt that goes through the accessory tensioner with PB blaster before you start to take it out. If it gets stuck, you'l be doing an oil change also (at best) since it bolts into the oil filter housing. In case you need to bolt's PN its MD374022 (this is the 14mm one).
-I used carquest PN stl46000 (C clip pliers) on the timing belt tensioner pulley. With the tensioner tool inserted I could rest their handle on the oil pump pulley center bolt for perfect tension. Any pair of C-clip pliers should do if it will fit in the holes. You can also grind down a pair of standard right angle pliers, but the whole kit of tools can be found for pretty cheap online.
-In case there is a problem with the bolt that goes through the crank sprocket it has been superseded by Mits PN 1101a022 which is a smaller head and no 1/2 socket in the middle. ARP produces a bolt in the old style.
-If you are doing the water pump also I would do it right before where you take off the balance shaft belt. You'll need a gasket and an O-ring with it (that are included with the mitsubishiparts.net kit).
-I have an Exedy Twin, so when torquing the crank bolt there was a ton of spring action, even with the car in gear and the brakes on. I put a 14mm on the oil pump bolt, pushed the 22mm forward, held with the oil pump, then was able to push forward again with enough force for the required torque... I highly recommend just making a tool from L stock beforehand.
-If for some reason you go out of time set the cam gears, then crank and balance shaft, then oil pump and you should be fine. It is 17 belt teeth from mark to mark on the cams (count the one that is in the middle of a tooth for the intake timing).
And the one that turned this into 2 timing belt jobs:
-If you do the water pump fill everything back up BEFORE you put the car back together. The bolts on the water pump are all grade 4 except for the top left and bracket bolt (grade 7). Bolt sizes are according to depth... be careful, some are only 1/8" difference in size.
Last edited by fostytou; Mar 1, 2011 at 09:51 PM.
Jun 27, 2011, 06:50 AM
#41
Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Australia
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi All,
From the manual in for my evo 6, they say to line everything up (markings) at one tooth counter clockwise from the TDC markings.. It makes everything a bit more relaxed as holding the exhaust cam at exact TDC is a bit tricky.
Nice write up though. I'm half way through a head gasket change
One question.. How do you know how much torque to put on your Timing Belt tensior pulley? I'm talking about the allen key and screw driver solution you used? Did you torque it just to the point where you could freely remove the allen key from the hydraulic tensior? Because I think you are meant to use another mitsu special tool to hold the arm which sits on the hydraulic tension while setting the torque on the pulley wheel.
I might copy your allen key/screw driver solution!
Thanks all and I hope the align everything one tooth off (EVERYTHING ONE TOOTH OFF INCLUDING THE CRANK SHAFT!) helps
From the manual in for my evo 6, they say to line everything up (markings) at one tooth counter clockwise from the TDC markings.. It makes everything a bit more relaxed as holding the exhaust cam at exact TDC is a bit tricky.
Nice write up though. I'm half way through a head gasket change
One question.. How do you know how much torque to put on your Timing Belt tensior pulley? I'm talking about the allen key and screw driver solution you used? Did you torque it just to the point where you could freely remove the allen key from the hydraulic tensior? Because I think you are meant to use another mitsu special tool to hold the arm which sits on the hydraulic tension while setting the torque on the pulley wheel.
I might copy your allen key/screw driver solution!
Thanks all and I hope the align everything one tooth off (EVERYTHING ONE TOOTH OFF INCLUDING THE CRANK SHAFT!) helps
Last edited by racingroo; Jun 27, 2011 at 06:53 AM.
Jun 27, 2011, 11:08 AM
#42
Jun 27, 2011, 06:57 PM
#43
Evolving Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: West Seneca NY
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am way past due changing my Timing belt and balance belt. I was wondering if you definitely need to buy the entire kit with pulleys and water pump or can you just get away with the belts? I have 95k on the car and really need to do this but also want to save $$$.
Athanasios
Athanasios
Jun 27, 2011, 07:56 PM
#44
Doing the oil pump timing mark wrong is a huge mistake that 100s off good techs mess up on all 4g63t. The reason for the screw driver is. One way with the timing make lined up the screw driver will not go in and spin it 360deg and line it up and it will. The Oil pump BS shaft takes 2 full turns of the pully to make one turn of the shaft. This is only on the oil pump.
We call it the BS shaft flip which we do 2-3 of them a month for people. I can tell right away if they are out of phase. If it goes long enough it causes bolts to fall out and phantom knock problems.
What we do is set the mark straight up and it should fall towards its timing mark. So the wrong way it falls away and the right way it falls in.
We call it the BS shaft flip which we do 2-3 of them a month for people. I can tell right away if they are out of phase. If it goes long enough it causes bolts to fall out and phantom knock problems.
What we do is set the mark straight up and it should fall towards its timing mark. So the wrong way it falls away and the right way it falls in.
Last edited by Lucas English; Jun 29, 2011 at 09:10 PM.
Jun 28, 2011, 08:09 AM
#45
^^^I used this method and saved tons of time. My oil pump gear timing marks were actually off a few teeth from the previous tech. It was noticeable when driving, best way I could describe it is that it felt like an angry v-tec (vibration around 4k rpm) Once corrected it was amazing how much smoother the car ran, night and day difference...
