How To Install [BINARY] Recaro Seat Lowering Brackets
Jun 30, 2009, 05:19 PM
#62
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Just installed my bracket and am very happy with the results. The install was very easy. It's not hard at all, just take your time and follow the directions.
Thanks again jid2!
Thanks again jid2!
May 16, 2010, 07:34 PM
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Ok since I was short for time I did the install on just the passenger seat. It was pretty straight forward but I'll try to clarify some of the issues I and others had. Feel free to correct me if I did something wrong.
1. I did not tighten all the binary brackets until the seat was in the car. This helped with the alignment on the chassis mounting locations. I snugged all the binary brackets, put the seat back in the car and aligned the brackets with the chassis bolts on the front and the holes in the rear. Before tightening the rear binary brackets I had to ensure the front acorn nuts were removed so I can slide the seat all the way forward to access the rear allen key bolts. Front binary brackets are easy to line up on the bolts if the brackets are just snug enough to turn. Then using the allen key and open ended wrench I tightened the binary brackets to the seat.
2. As mentioned you do lose a few of the forward seat positions because of the OEM acorn nuts on the front chassis bolts. I did not see any other obstruction besides those acorn nuts that's inhibiting the forward positions. The forward positions lost are only worth while for giving more room to someone or something you are transporting in the back seats. No one is going to need those forward positions if they are sitting in the front seats cause your knees will be hitting the dash... so no loss there.
3. I did not bend the adjustment lever but will have to for safety purposes. The lever does come into contact with the chassis frame on the floor when sliding the seat forward. My lever still locked on the forward positions but my concern is the tolerance before it unlocks is shortened and the seat may slide forward on hard braking or an accident. Was anyone able to bend it without a vise?
Can't wait to do the install on the driver's side!
1. I did not tighten all the binary brackets until the seat was in the car. This helped with the alignment on the chassis mounting locations. I snugged all the binary brackets, put the seat back in the car and aligned the brackets with the chassis bolts on the front and the holes in the rear. Before tightening the rear binary brackets I had to ensure the front acorn nuts were removed so I can slide the seat all the way forward to access the rear allen key bolts. Front binary brackets are easy to line up on the bolts if the brackets are just snug enough to turn. Then using the allen key and open ended wrench I tightened the binary brackets to the seat.
2. As mentioned you do lose a few of the forward seat positions because of the OEM acorn nuts on the front chassis bolts. I did not see any other obstruction besides those acorn nuts that's inhibiting the forward positions. The forward positions lost are only worth while for giving more room to someone or something you are transporting in the back seats. No one is going to need those forward positions if they are sitting in the front seats cause your knees will be hitting the dash... so no loss there.
3. I did not bend the adjustment lever but will have to for safety purposes. The lever does come into contact with the chassis frame on the floor when sliding the seat forward. My lever still locked on the forward positions but my concern is the tolerance before it unlocks is shortened and the seat may slide forward on hard braking or an accident. Was anyone able to bend it without a vise?
Can't wait to do the install on the driver's side!
Last edited by SPANKED; May 16, 2010 at 10:44 PM.
Jun 2, 2010, 11:35 AM
#67
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You can use vise-grips to pinch the tubing and then just your hands/foot can finish the slight bend.
There was a picture of someone doing it in one of the other threads, but it might have gotten deleted. It was in the middle of a big thread about the brackets.
There was a picture of someone doing it in one of the other threads, but it might have gotten deleted. It was in the middle of a big thread about the brackets.
Jun 2, 2010, 11:42 AM
#68
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Also, i found there to be no need to bend the adjustment lever. It only seemed to make it harder to adjust the seat.
Jun 3, 2010, 08:03 AM
#70
I wanted to post up my experience with the install, and my follow-up work.
I installed the brackets and immediately fell in love. Like others, I came across the issue of of the adjustment lever and the seat shifting slightly. I pulled the seats out yesterday to try to bend the bar, and without a workbench with a vice clamp I just couldn't get it. Reading over this thread, I now see that I can squeeze them with vice grips and bend them, which I may give a try. I did find something that helped a bit though:
The adjustment lever is shaped like a "U". The closed end is what we grab to squeeze towards the seat to make adjustments. The open end faces the rear passenger compartment. There are two little rubber clip "thingy's" that connect the very tips of the open ended side to the bottom of the seat. If you disconnect those little rubber things, the bar has more slack in it before engagement occurs. This allows the adjustment bar to be rubbing a bit without actually adjusting the seat. It did NOT fix the problem 100%, but it did make it nearly unnoticeable. I hope this helps for some of you. Your mileage may vary, of course.
To disconnect the rubber clips, I simply pressed the adjustment lever up (as I would to slide the seat forward or back), and then easily pushed the rubber rings off the end of the bars. It's a bit difficult to describe, but if you are looking at the seat and adjustment bar, and where it all hooks up with together, you'll see what I'm talking about.
I installed the brackets and immediately fell in love. Like others, I came across the issue of of the adjustment lever and the seat shifting slightly. I pulled the seats out yesterday to try to bend the bar, and without a workbench with a vice clamp I just couldn't get it. Reading over this thread, I now see that I can squeeze them with vice grips and bend them, which I may give a try. I did find something that helped a bit though:
The adjustment lever is shaped like a "U". The closed end is what we grab to squeeze towards the seat to make adjustments. The open end faces the rear passenger compartment. There are two little rubber clip "thingy's" that connect the very tips of the open ended side to the bottom of the seat. If you disconnect those little rubber things, the bar has more slack in it before engagement occurs. This allows the adjustment bar to be rubbing a bit without actually adjusting the seat. It did NOT fix the problem 100%, but it did make it nearly unnoticeable. I hope this helps for some of you. Your mileage may vary, of course.
To disconnect the rubber clips, I simply pressed the adjustment lever up (as I would to slide the seat forward or back), and then easily pushed the rubber rings off the end of the bars. It's a bit difficult to describe, but if you are looking at the seat and adjustment bar, and where it all hooks up with together, you'll see what I'm talking about.
Last edited by boozeup&riot; Jun 3, 2010 at 08:05 AM.
Jun 3, 2010, 08:45 AM
#71
Going to rant for a minute here:
I'd like to suggest that the instructions should be modified to include the bending of the adjustment lever, and not thrown in as an afterthought. An afterthought that I feel really marginalizes the difficulty of bending the adjustment lever. I found the negligence in mentioning of the lever bending to be incredibly frustrating, and borderline deceptive.
Some helpful tips for how to bend the lever would really help. As would owning up to the fact that that if you are under six feet tall, this is is a very real issue that you may encounter.
end rant.
I'd like to suggest that the instructions should be modified to include the bending of the adjustment lever, and not thrown in as an afterthought. An afterthought that I feel really marginalizes the difficulty of bending the adjustment lever. I found the negligence in mentioning of the lever bending to be incredibly frustrating, and borderline deceptive.
Some helpful tips for how to bend the lever would really help. As would owning up to the fact that that if you are under six feet tall, this is is a very real issue that you may encounter.
end rant.
Jun 3, 2010, 10:51 AM
#72
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There are two little rubber clip "thingy's" that connect the very tips of the open ended side to the bottom of the seat. If you disconnect those little rubber things, the bar has more slack in it before engagement occurs. This allows the adjustment bar to be rubbing a bit without actually adjusting the seat. It did NOT fix the problem 100%, but it did make it nearly unnoticeable.
The problem with the adjustment bar and Binary's brackets is the bar hits the frame rail. The fear that I have is when the adjustment bar is resting on the frame rail the possibility of the seat slider engaging during an abrupt stop or accident is increased since the adjustment bar is closer to the actual point of engagement. Hope that makes sense, if you look at it in person you will understand.
Jun 8, 2010, 03:47 PM
#73
I have to look at the seats in person but I'm having trouble understanding how this will help. It allows the adjustment bar to rub more on what?
The problem with the adjustment bar and Binary's brackets is the bar hits the frame rail. The fear that I have is when the adjustment bar is resting on the frame rail the possibility of the seat slider engaging during an abrupt stop or accident is increased since the adjustment bar is closer to the actual point of engagement. Hope that makes sense, if you look at it in person you will understand.
The problem with the adjustment bar and Binary's brackets is the bar hits the frame rail. The fear that I have is when the adjustment bar is resting on the frame rail the possibility of the seat slider engaging during an abrupt stop or accident is increased since the adjustment bar is closer to the actual point of engagement. Hope that makes sense, if you look at it in person you will understand.
For lack of a better way of describing it, the rubber thingies hold the end of the bracket flush with the seat, so the moment you start to push the lever, engagement begins. WIth the rubber things disconnected, there is some slack in the movement that can occur with that adjustment bar before engagement occurs. I hope this helps, thats about the best I have in the way of explanations. As simply stated as I can figure out how to say it, the bar can move a little (ie rest against the frame rail you are mentioning) without *as much* engagement occurring. Whether you find this to your liking is a matter of preference. I believe I'll still bend the bar in the near future. The combination of the two should work well.
If you'r concerned about weakening the bar, I'd also say you have nothing to worry about, so long as you don't bend it back and forth repeatedly. It's a VERY strong bar, which is part of why I find the the glossing over of the bar bending to be so frustrating. Again, your mileage may vary.
Jun 23, 2010, 06:57 PM
#75
Haha, I just found this post. Didn't even know other people do that. I fabricated mine over a month ago and they look almost the same as yours.
Last edited by aDee; Jun 23, 2010 at 07:22 PM.