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Boost Leak Testing - How and Why

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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 09:48 PM
  #16  
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ooo ok so it does have to be TDC that makes sense haha and how do you turn the motor by hand or find TDC if you dont mind?
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 08:57 AM
  #17  
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Check evomoto.com
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 10:58 AM
  #18  
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thank you sir, where in florida are you at?
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 03:47 AM
  #19  
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Wow. Very informative! Thank you!
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 05:14 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by evokid511
thank you sir, where in florida are you at?
Tree oh five
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 12:24 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Evoryder
Tree oh five
ooo nice im in the nine five fo !
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 05:08 PM
  #22  
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From: pa
Originally Posted by Evoryder
I just got done doing my boost leak tests and was going to post up a how to but Ted B beat me to it lol and looks like he did a great job.

Here are pics of my setup.(CLICK IMAGES TO MAKE LARGER)



Breather hose routed into car so that expelling air from the v.c would not disrupt my tests


My boost leak tester


Plug up Mbc pressure source source, if not you'll hear a nice leak out of the mbc.


Showing breather hose


My Compressor


Purchased replacement o-rings for another major leak found there today. I purchased a omni 4 bar map sensor and re-used the oem o-ring because it has more meat, however, they both fail. Purchased a beefier set a DiscountAutoParts...leak fixed.


Capped these guys off due to lack of use. I need to find a more permanent solution, i dyno'd with an older set with torn rubber(major boost leaks)


4 ft hose leading away from valve cover(never plug valve cover)
can you please link me to the part you got to fix the omni 4 bar, mine leaks like hell also. I even tried rtv'ing it.

ps. you dont need 2 people to turn crank. you use long extention socket 1/2 drive and u can turn it easy. turn it until it gets hard to turn then stop and u can test the car without the air goin out the exhaust. (for evokid511)


btw you're pretty smart. routing the pcv air leak away from engine bay. you're one of those guys that pop the hood and its like eh ok.. doesnt look all that great, but then you setup smokes most other setups similar to yours lol. i learned my lesson to never judge a car by how clean the engine bay is. other then all those different colors tho your bay is clean. but i think you do that color **** on purpose to throw people off.


btw, very thorough write up Ted.

Last edited by tscompusa2; Apr 12, 2010 at 05:27 PM.
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 06:53 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
can you please link me to the part you got to fix the omni 4 bar, mine leaks like hell also. I even tried rtv'ing it.

ps. you dont need 2 people to turn crank. you use long extention socket 1/2 drive and u can turn it easy. turn it until it gets hard to turn then stop and u can test the car without the air goin out the exhaust. (for evokid511)


btw you're pretty smart. routing the pcv air leak away from engine bay. you're one of those guys that pop the hood and its like eh ok.. doesnt look all that great, but then you setup smokes most other setups similar to yours lol. i learned my lesson to never judge a car by how clean the engine bay is. other then all those different colors tho your bay is clean. but i think you do that color **** on purpose to throw people off.


btw, very thorough write up Ted.
The crank turning is one person. I meant eyeing the gauge to see when the pressure starts to build.

Thanks for the complements on my clean but not really clean engine bay. I stopped caring on colors after I got the blue intake couplers...i was going to do a blue theme and then realized the car is red lol. So I don't care. Zip ties can be pink for all i care

The O-ring you need can be found at discount autoparts or Autozone; part#80000
--->


My engine bay after Speed Density...





...and yes the car moves
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 07:01 PM
  #24  
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From: pa
Originally Posted by Evoryder
The crank turning is one person. I meant eyeing the gauge to see when the pressure starts to build.

Thanks for the complements on my clean but not really clean engine bay. I stopped caring on colors after I got the blue intake couplers...i was going to do a blue theme and then realized the car is red lol. So I don't care. Zip ties can be pink for all i care

The O-ring you need can be found at discount autoparts or Autozone; part#80000
--->


My engine bay after Speed Density...





...and yes the car moves

Thanks man! Ya i could have your bay looking really nice in like 10min. Its just the off colors

Ya the gauge thing def requires 2 people unless u have a compressor that can stretch far like me and i just watch the gauge and turn it off and test. 2 people is definitely the best way tho for sure.

Im doing SD also, just trying to get to 540whp at 30psi with my setup then ill switch to SD. Stupid water pump gasket blew (internal gasket in pump) due to head lifting. Just went and retorqued head today and some bolts turned almost a full turn!

I seen your engine bay in another thread on here I think. Is SD a massive difference? I like the dejon pipe also. I think ill go that route also. Dejontool makes quality stuff just $$$$
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 07:56 PM
  #25  
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^ main difference for me is low cruise driveability car is much smoother.

Dejon piece wasn't cheap, definitely quality and quick ship
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 09:17 PM
  #26  
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From: pa
very nice. cant wait to do mine.
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Old Apr 16, 2010 | 03:03 PM
  #27  
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Boost test

Thanks Ted
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Old May 10, 2010 | 04:21 PM
  #28  
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gr8 info,, thanks for the write up
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Old May 28, 2010 | 02:54 PM
  #29  
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Wow great write up. Thanks Ted! I'm fairly certain I have a leak, I'm only maxing out at 15-17psi... so just a matter of finding it I suppose.

Thanks again!
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Old May 28, 2010 | 07:08 PM
  #30  
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there are a few of us in another thread that are maxing out our boost leak test at around 20 psi and cant seem to get past it. If anyone has any suggestions or ideas on the issue please post it up for us. Thanks

Here's the link:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...test-help.html
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