Thanks for the reply. I thought I had something fishy going on. I can't quite see or feel any air escaping by the egr so I THINK it's good. As for the throttle body shaft seal. Is it worth replacing with the WORKS high pressure seals or will it still leak?

Thanks.

 

Replaced the seals with WORKS. Way better. Holds 15 psi to 0 psi in a minute. That pretty good?

Evo9 throttle body shaft seals replaced with WORKS:

 

I was doing some boost leak testing today and found a pretty large leak on the wastegate actuator where the rod comes out of the actual housing. Is this a normal spot? Anyway to fix the leak besides a new actuator?

 

Mine had a leak there before. And it was an aftermarket one that wasn't even a year old. Took it off and put my used oem one back in and problem solved.

 

Wouldn't it make sense to plug the UICP where it connects to the throttle body to eliminate leaks out of the engine from valves, etc?

 

It does where checking the intake plumbing is concerned, but one should not assume there are no leaks emanating from the intake manifold. All those vacuum and signal connections, EGR (if present), and injector ports are common trouble spots.

 

^ Gotcha. Maybe I'll do one with the UICP plugged and one without.

 

So I did a boost leak test and I fixed a few small leaks but for the most part my system is tight.

I heard though that engine load is a good indicator of boost and that boost pressure should equal load/10. However My load values get up into the low 200s yet my boost pressure rarely sees over 15ish. I should note that I have a 2.4 w/ stock turbo and basemap which may or may not be limiting my boost pressure (I'm not good enough with tuning to know that yet).

So is it true that boost should be close to load/10 or not really?

 

thanks for this

 

Maybe a stupid question, but can you connect the tester to the intake pipe before the MAF instead of connecting to the turbo inlet? If so, do you have to plug any lines?

I have an ETS intake and remember it being a PITA to install, so trying to avoid taking it off.

 

You can pressurize it from anywhere so long as whatever is on the turbo inlet side can hold the pressure and prevent air from escaping.

 

You can pressurize the intake; however, that part of the system isn't designed to hold boost. It will often leak around the maf sensor.

You will also want to plug the vent to the valve cover or you will pressurize the crankcase.

 

And do I need to disconnect and cap off any hoses going to boost controller

Which part do I disconnect and cap off

 

Hi guys,

I have an Evo 8 mr. And it is overboosting, as such i am trying to do a boost leak test.

I have purchased a VXSCAN V4 smoke detector.

My pipe work is set up as follows:


I have read various threads and everyone says something different.

Now I disconnected the BOV from the intake pipe and left it open. I removed the intake, maf, air filter and hard pipe leaving just the silicone connector on the turbo.

I then hooked up the V4 smoke machine at the turbo inlet.

I removed the crank case breather hose leaving the breather open.

I then used the V4 to put smoke into the turbo inlet and began checking for leaks. I initially started at 1psi, and then went up to 2 psi.

I couldn't see any leaks anywhere and the onlyvsmoke visiblw was coming out of the crank case breather.

I tried to turn the air pressure up, the V4 machine will max out at 20psi, however it didn't seem to want to go above 3.3psi. I am not sure if this is because the crank case breather is open or some other reason.

Can anyone give mesole advice of what to do. I dont have access to an air line, just the V4 built in pump.

See link below for the V4.