Does anybody have a complete list of hoses that need to be sealed to build pressure when you are doing this test on a car with everything stock except for an aftermarket MBC?

On a stock setup I'm removing the whole air intake system and separately the BOV from the intake and leave it hanging off of the upper intercooler piping?

Any help would be great. Thanks.

 

Just think about where the air travels in the system.

 

Just did my first test last night in all the time I've had the car. Good thing I did because LICP was leaking bad and one of the vacuum lines to the top of the intake manifold had popped off. to this thread and the ones below. Stuff like this makes evom priceless.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...er-5-02-a.html

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-detector.html

Here are a few pics of mine. One thing I wanted to point out is that I used a 1.25" PVC cap (slip fit) to plug the end of my 2" to 1.5" rubber coupling. I was confused at the hardware store when I saw that there was no way a 1.5" PVC cap would fit in the coupling. Then it occurred to me that this is because a cap is made to cover the outside of a pipe, not thread into the inside, so it's actually bigger than 1.25". Almost exactly 1.5", in fact. I bought a cap just like this one.

http://www.amazon.com/Charlotte-Pvc-...5380326&sr=8-1

For those in the process of building one, I would highly recommend going with this setup. The cap fits so snugly in the coupling that no epoxy is needed to seal it. Once you tighten the clamp that came with the coupling it is air-tight. I only needed to use epoxy (JB weld) to plug the hole I drilled in the PVC cap for the 1/4 adapter.

Oh, and don't forget the teflon tape!

 

I was able to build 25 psi pretty easily on my first real attempt. Pretty all the EGR lines are good. The injectors leak before the system gets to 10 psi. The stock MR BOV starts to leak at 18psi and by 25psi is leaking a substantial amount. Lastly the PCV is letting a small amount of air to flow through it. I've got the MAP/Kracka PCV valve kit to install inline with the stock PCV. Bought the injector seal kit. Not sure what to do about the BOV.

Buy another stock BOV or buy an aftermarket one that can handle mid 20s psi with ease. Any recommendations? Plan to keep the car in the 20s for psi. Quick question - can those above leaks really impact the performance of the car? Kinda hoping it can because the car does seem a little flat before builds full boost. lol. Thanks.

 

Get an evo 9 metal bov. Should hold about 25psi. If you crush it down a bit 30psi

 

Yes, absolutely. The sum of a few small leaks is often enough to impact the performance of the car in ways that can be felt from the driver's seat. It isn't worth letting them go unchecked.

 

Thanks for the suggestion that is the one I've got. The valve's definitely starting to leak in the 15-20psi range. 20-25psi it leaks a noticable amount. When I hold my hand up to the open side of the valve I can feel the pressure building up. For reference I have a MBC set at ~1.5 bar (stock metric gauge).

I haven't done a lot of research into BOV's to be honest. But my initial findings are mixed at best for the limit of the metal stock BOV. And then other people have experienced some flutter, off throttle surge with a crushed oem valve. Idk. Just seems like going into another rabbit hole when you search the subject. lol

Thinking about buying a new stock metal valve and refurbishing+crushing the one I've got that way I've got both of the popular options covered. Just trying to keep this car driving as close to stock as possible.

 

Yes I had the same issue but it held 30 psi.

 

Would you mind pm'ing me the info please for the kit?

 

This may be a dumb noob question, but do you start the car while doing a boost leak test?? Probably not since you disconnect the intake but I could be wrong.

Also, should you disconnect the oil cap while conducting a boost leak test to relieve pressure on your crank case system?

I only ask because these steps were not listed on the OP and just wanted to make sure not to make any big mistake.

 

car off
i leave my oil cap on

 

So when I do my boost leak test. Since I have a stock dv going into the intake. Once I take off the intake, I have to remove the hose that goes to intake to the dv? And leave on the dv to ic pipe And the small one that goes to the intake mani? And the dv should hold air without the tube going to the intake pipe correct?

Sorry if that doesn't Make sense. I'm just really confused. And. What about the hose that goes from vc to the intake pipe? I just leave it open?

I'm dumb help

 

intake dv side is typically where you add your pressure ...so yeah that stuff is left just hanging ...

 

Well. Found one by the dv. Tighten that down and fixed it. Then found this. Can't feel any air or see any bubbles. But massive leakage. Won't hold air for not even a minute.

Evo 9 boost leak test 15-17psi: http://youtu.be/B2ocEdCBHiQ

 

Just so your expectations are realistic, the system will never hold air. Why? Because one of the intake valves will be open in any position, and the TB cannot make an air-tight seal, among other things. So long as you find no further leaks in the intake tubing, you are probably fine. Other things to check are the vacuum lines that connect to the manifold, the PCV valve (good to clean it on occasion), and with some cars, the EGR system on the back side of the manifold, which is a notorious trouble spot.

Oh, and the leak you point to in the video is from the throttle shaft, and you'll find that same leak in virtually every factory TB.