Boost Leak Testing - How and Why
I cannot build more than 20psi in my system during boost leak test. I tried new TB seals, new bov, map crankcase vacuum kit, sprayed soapy water on every coupler and found a few very small leaks, fixed them, 20 psi. WTF!! its driving me crazy! I hear no leaks but cant seem to pressurize the system any further. Any suggestions because there is obviously something I'm missing!?
also dont forget to turn the mbc up high or it will bleed off on the hallman or bypass it.
Last edited by tscompusa2; May 11, 2011 at 09:30 PM.
Thanks for the suggestions. I checked the exhaust and there is no air coming out of it. I tried TDC and everything in between by slowly turning the crank, it did not make a difference.
and the hallmans turned up? how long does it hold this 20psi for when you turn the compressor off?
Try doing the boost test with the engine at normal operating temperature, as this helps minimize the blow-by at the piston rings.
Make sure your PVC valve is working and therefore not letting pressure bleed from your intake manifold to the valve cover area. Remove the PVC valve and test it by applying 25psi of air pressure to the valve itself to see that it is holding.
Dan (drb)
Yes the hallman is turned up. I am removing it though to perform the test and pluging the line that goes to the J pipe. It only takes a matter of seconds for the pressure to bleed off completely after i turn the air compressor off. I should note that the car seems to drive fine and pull hard. It spikes to 25 psi and falls off to about 19 psi at redline.
Try doing the boost test with the engine at normal operating temperature, as this helps minimize the blow-by at the piston rings.
Make sure your PVC valve is working and therefore not letting pressure bleed from your intake manifold to the valve cover area. Remove the PVC valve and test it by applying 25psi of air pressure to the valve itself to see that it is holding.
Dan (drb)
Make sure your PVC valve is working and therefore not letting pressure bleed from your intake manifold to the valve cover area. Remove the PVC valve and test it by applying 25psi of air pressure to the valve itself to see that it is holding.
Dan (drb)
These are two things i haven't tried that i will def. look into! Thanks
Once I pressurize the system to 20 psi is it ok for the air to slowly flow out. Like 1-2 mins from 20psi to 0psi? I hear no leaks and see no leaks. Just need to make sure pressure slowly going down is ok.
These two links saved me a huge headache. I was having trouble with too pressure leaking and it seemed to be crankcase pressure as it was coming out of the valve cover via PCV and the return to the intake pipe. The fix actually made a difference in throttle response. I am so stoked I figure I would share it with those that may not have seen my other thread.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...cv-system.html
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...6844&catid=489
The second link here is within the first link and it is also explained there. Hope this helps some of you!
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...cv-system.html
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...6844&catid=489
The second link here is within the first link and it is also explained there. Hope this helps some of you!
Anyone able to do a boost leak test and build enough boost with a cold engine?
Dan (drb)