Rear Diff fluid change
Newbie
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: PA
What is the specified weight of rear differential oil? My dealer tells me SAE 90 LSD. Others are using 75W90. Anyone know, since the manual only says use Mitsu part number so and so (can't remember number and too lazy to get manual)?
They do make other grades of gear oil, but 75w90 is pretty much the "universal" stuff. I think there's stuff like 80w90 and straight 90w out there, but 75w90 should be alright in those cases.
I always used Redline on my LT1 and when i did the first oil change i noticed it was smoother and quieter. did you notice any of those?
also LT1 owners always use a GM additive and believe me, it does makes a difference. Is there any additive we can use on the evo or is it just better to keep it just with oil?
thanks for you info
also LT1 owners always use a GM additive and believe me, it does makes a difference. Is there any additive we can use on the evo or is it just better to keep it just with oil?
thanks for you info
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Re: Rear Diff fluid change
Thanks - very helpful
Originally posted by nsnguyen
Runny_yolk did a great writeup on changing the oil in the transfer case and transmission but he didn't get to the rear diff quite yet. Since Runny and I are friends, I thought I'd pick up where he left off.
Tools:
Gear oil pump
24mm socket (torque wrench preferable) I got my socket at Sears- they keep the bigger ones in the locked cabinet so be sure to ask if you can't find it.
Oil drain pan
Rags (to clean up)
Oil:
75W90 gear oil (I used Red Line), 1 qt is more than enough.
1. Crawl under your car and look at the rear diff. (If you do not know what the rear diff looks like, I highly suggest not doing this yourself) I did not use a jack and was able to get under. There are two 24mm bolts, one on the bottom face of the diff, and one facing rearward towards the anti roll bar. The bolt on the bottom is the magnetic drain plug. The bolt towards the rear is the fill plug.
2. BEFORE you remove the drain plug, make sure that there is enough clearance for your socket and wrench to get around to the back and loosen the fill plug. To be sure, just loosen it until it moves a bit so you know you can get it off.
3. Remove the bottom plug and drain the oil. It's not much, slightly more than half a quart. Clean the metal shavings from the plug and set it aside. Wait about 15-20 minutes for the oil to drain. Be sure when removing the plug that you get the washer as well. It sometimes sticks to the diff and it's easy to overlook.
4. Clean and replace the magnetic drain plug. I torqued it to 23 lb-ft because that's what the specs are for the transfer case and MT. (If I'm wrong correct me). Remove the fill plug on the back face of the diff. It is the same socket size (24 mm). Again, be sure not to lose the washer.
5. Insert the hose from your pump into the fill plug. To get a less kinked hose, I ran mine over the anti roll bar and then into the hole.
6. For the gear oil pumps to work well, the pumping needs to start with the oil bottle elevated. IF your pump is like mine, with an intake hose and an output hose, have a friend hold the bottle up high with the intake hose in it, so gravity will help start the pumping. Once the hoses fill up it's not so important to have the oil bottle elevated.
7. Pump, pump, pump away until you see oil start seeping back out of the diff. This should be no more than .58 quarts, but might be less due to the old oil remaining in the diff. You can never really get it all out.
8. Replace the fill plug and you're done. Drive around happily.
Runny_yolk did a great writeup on changing the oil in the transfer case and transmission but he didn't get to the rear diff quite yet. Since Runny and I are friends, I thought I'd pick up where he left off.
Tools:
Gear oil pump
24mm socket (torque wrench preferable) I got my socket at Sears- they keep the bigger ones in the locked cabinet so be sure to ask if you can't find it.
Oil drain pan
Rags (to clean up)
Oil:
75W90 gear oil (I used Red Line), 1 qt is more than enough.
1. Crawl under your car and look at the rear diff. (If you do not know what the rear diff looks like, I highly suggest not doing this yourself) I did not use a jack and was able to get under. There are two 24mm bolts, one on the bottom face of the diff, and one facing rearward towards the anti roll bar. The bolt on the bottom is the magnetic drain plug. The bolt towards the rear is the fill plug.
2. BEFORE you remove the drain plug, make sure that there is enough clearance for your socket and wrench to get around to the back and loosen the fill plug. To be sure, just loosen it until it moves a bit so you know you can get it off.
3. Remove the bottom plug and drain the oil. It's not much, slightly more than half a quart. Clean the metal shavings from the plug and set it aside. Wait about 15-20 minutes for the oil to drain. Be sure when removing the plug that you get the washer as well. It sometimes sticks to the diff and it's easy to overlook.
4. Clean and replace the magnetic drain plug. I torqued it to 23 lb-ft because that's what the specs are for the transfer case and MT. (If I'm wrong correct me). Remove the fill plug on the back face of the diff. It is the same socket size (24 mm). Again, be sure not to lose the washer.
5. Insert the hose from your pump into the fill plug. To get a less kinked hose, I ran mine over the anti roll bar and then into the hole.
6. For the gear oil pumps to work well, the pumping needs to start with the oil bottle elevated. IF your pump is like mine, with an intake hose and an output hose, have a friend hold the bottle up high with the intake hose in it, so gravity will help start the pumping. Once the hoses fill up it's not so important to have the oil bottle elevated.
7. Pump, pump, pump away until you see oil start seeping back out of the diff. This should be no more than .58 quarts, but might be less due to the old oil remaining in the diff. You can never really get it all out.
8. Replace the fill plug and you're done. Drive around happily.
Hey all,
I'm at 15K miles and just changed my transaxle, transfer case, rear diff, and engine oil. I had done the transaxle, transfer case, and rear diff back at ~3k miles or so.
First, to bump the question from before, my rear diff has the black undercoating stuff as well. Do they do this for climates where there is snow or something?
I used redline MT-90 in the transaxle to fulfill the GL-4 spec, then NEO RHD in the transfer case and rear diff. Good old Mobil 1 10W-30 and the old style Mitsu oil filter. Car feels great! Shifts like butter. I don't remember if it was this smooth after the first change and gradually deteriorated?
I had the decel noise, but it got better after the first fluid change, and seems like it's practically gone now. Maybe my exhaust drowns it out a little (not that the exhaust is loud), heh. I used to be embarrassed to downshift in 3rd or 4th with a car near me since it sounded so horrible. I'm very happy with the car right now.
Still had some metal shavings, I was hoping there would be less than the first time, but still seemed to be a fair amt...
Finally, this time I tried to keep my car more level when adding fluids. My garage slopes back towards the street, so I backed in to do the transaxle and transfer case, and went forward for the rear diff. I jacked up the rear ever so slightly when doing the rear diff, just to make it a little more level.
Sorry to ramble.
Take care,
FB
I'm at 15K miles and just changed my transaxle, transfer case, rear diff, and engine oil. I had done the transaxle, transfer case, and rear diff back at ~3k miles or so.
First, to bump the question from before, my rear diff has the black undercoating stuff as well. Do they do this for climates where there is snow or something?
I used redline MT-90 in the transaxle to fulfill the GL-4 spec, then NEO RHD in the transfer case and rear diff. Good old Mobil 1 10W-30 and the old style Mitsu oil filter. Car feels great! Shifts like butter. I don't remember if it was this smooth after the first change and gradually deteriorated?
I had the decel noise, but it got better after the first fluid change, and seems like it's practically gone now. Maybe my exhaust drowns it out a little (not that the exhaust is loud), heh. I used to be embarrassed to downshift in 3rd or 4th with a car near me since it sounded so horrible. I'm very happy with the car right now.
Still had some metal shavings, I was hoping there would be less than the first time, but still seemed to be a fair amt...
Finally, this time I tried to keep my car more level when adding fluids. My garage slopes back towards the street, so I backed in to do the transaxle and transfer case, and went forward for the rear diff. I jacked up the rear ever so slightly when doing the rear diff, just to make it a little more level.
Sorry to ramble.
Take care,
FB
Edited original post to fix image link...BTW I noticed my rear diff was leaking from the drain plug the other day and found that the drain plug was only finger tight. Fortunately I didn't lose a lot of fluid but please check your diffs for leaking and retorque the drain plugs as necessary!
source: http://www.race-works.com/EVO_e_FSM/...0075004501.htm
online manual says to torque the drain plug to 47 +/- 3 ft-lb and the fill plug to 37 +/- 6 ft-lb, can someone verify if this is correct?
online manual says to torque the drain plug to 47 +/- 3 ft-lb and the fill plug to 37 +/- 6 ft-lb, can someone verify if this is correct?
Evolving Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: Irving,Texas
Why does that this link http://www.race-works.com/EVO_e_FSM/...0075004501.htm also link to a image resembling a hate group?