Rear Diff fluid change
Evolving Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 194
Likes: 4
From: Virginia
Thanks for the image. A couple of add ons:
Torque: I torqued all my fluid bolts to 25 ft-lbs (tranny, center diff, rear diff). Can anyone confirm this? Should I get back down there and retighten? I probably got a little more than 25. I did 25 and then an little more.
Filling: I used a measu-funnel:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...rtnumber=10704
Get some 1/2" clear hose from Home Depot and cut about 5'. Put it on the spout and the end cap that came with the funnel. Make an S hook out of some wire and attach it to the inside of the fuel door (open it first
). Route the hose above the wheel and suspension and into the fill hole. The 5' was exactly enough (I will remeasure tonight to make sure it wasn't 5'2" or something). Measure out .55L or a tad more of Diaqueen, open the valve and let it drain in. It takes longer than the hand pump, but it's less messy and I already had the funnel for the tranny and center diff anyway.
Good luck, and thanks for the writeup!
A
Torque: I torqued all my fluid bolts to 25 ft-lbs (tranny, center diff, rear diff). Can anyone confirm this? Should I get back down there and retighten? I probably got a little more than 25. I did 25 and then an little more.
Filling: I used a measu-funnel:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...rtnumber=10704
Get some 1/2" clear hose from Home Depot and cut about 5'. Put it on the spout and the end cap that came with the funnel. Make an S hook out of some wire and attach it to the inside of the fuel door (open it first
). Route the hose above the wheel and suspension and into the fill hole. The 5' was exactly enough (I will remeasure tonight to make sure it wasn't 5'2" or something). Measure out .55L or a tad more of Diaqueen, open the valve and let it drain in. It takes longer than the hand pump, but it's less messy and I already had the funnel for the tranny and center diff anyway.Good luck, and thanks for the writeup!
A
i used this write up this weekend and it was perfect. I used a gear lube pump and slide the tube between the sway bar and the bottom of the car and then into the fill hole. Worked like a champ. Thanks for the write up.
Evolving Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, WA
upload pix of rear diff please
Ok everyone has there time of ignorant and this is my time. So does anybody have any pix of the Rear Differential. Planning to do mine today so I'm a visual person. Can anyone please post pix of it and where the drain and fill plugs are at. For future refference please keep your image loaded, althoug it seem that the pix that was originally posted were deleted for some reason and it's making it difficult for those ignorant people like me who don't know where the differential are at. Well I think I know where it's at just not wanting to give it ago until someone show me the way. Thanx in advance
for the rear diff and t-case,i use amsoil servere gear.Tranny i used redline,.
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: So Cal
the manual states:
rear diff fill bolt-37ft/lbs
rear diff drain bolt-47ft lbs
xfer case, tranny, fill or drain are all 23ft lbs. there is a difference people. the OP needs to change his original post as it's wrong info by nearly half.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2...orquespecs.jpg
and there's a typo, the last one is supposed to be fill i believe. weird the oem service manual has a typo.
rear diff fill bolt-37ft/lbs
rear diff drain bolt-47ft lbs
xfer case, tranny, fill or drain are all 23ft lbs. there is a difference people. the OP needs to change his original post as it's wrong info by nearly half.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2...orquespecs.jpg
and there's a typo, the last one is supposed to be fill i believe. weird the oem service manual has a typo.
Awesome post
Runny_yolk did a great writeup on changing the oil in the transfer case and transmission but he didn't get to the rear diff quite yet. Since Runny and I are friends, I thought I'd pick up where he left off.
Tools:
Gear oil pump
24mm socket (torque wrench preferable) I got my socket at Sears- they keep the bigger ones in the locked cabinet so be sure to ask if you can't find it.
Oil drain pan
Rags (to clean up)
Oil:
75W90 gear oil (I used Red Line), 1 qt is more than enough.
1. Crawl under your car and look at the rear diff. (If you do not know what the rear diff looks like, I highly suggest not doing this yourself) I did not use a jack and was able to get under. There are two 24mm bolts, one on the bottom face of the diff, and one facing rearward towards the anti roll bar. The bolt on the bottom is the magnetic drain plug. The bolt towards the rear is the fill plug.
2. BEFORE you remove the drain plug, make sure that there is enough clearance for your socket and wrench to get around to the back and loosen the fill plug. To be sure, just loosen it until it moves a bit so you know you can get it off.
3. Remove the bottom plug and drain the oil. It's not much, slightly more than half a quart. Clean the metal shavings from the plug and set it aside. Wait about 15-20 minutes for the oil to drain. Be sure when removing the plug that you get the washer as well. It sometimes sticks to the diff and it's easy to overlook.
4. Clean and replace the magnetic drain plug. I torqued it to 23 lb-ft because that's what the specs are for the transfer case and MT. (If I'm wrong correct me). Remove the fill plug on the back face of the diff. It is the same socket size (24 mm). Again, be sure not to lose the washer.
5. Insert the hose from your pump into the fill plug. To get a less kinked hose, I ran mine over the anti roll bar and then into the hole.
6. For the gear oil pumps to work well, the pumping needs to start with the oil bottle elevated. IF your pump is like mine, with an intake hose and an output hose, have a friend hold the bottle up high with the intake hose in it, so gravity will help start the pumping. Once the hoses fill up it's not so important to have the oil bottle elevated.
7. Pump, pump, pump away until you see oil start seeping back out of the diff. This should be no more than .58 quarts, but might be less due to the old oil remaining in the diff. You can never really get it all out.
8. Replace the fill plug and you're done. Drive around happily.
Tools:
Gear oil pump
24mm socket (torque wrench preferable) I got my socket at Sears- they keep the bigger ones in the locked cabinet so be sure to ask if you can't find it.
Oil drain pan
Rags (to clean up)
Oil:
75W90 gear oil (I used Red Line), 1 qt is more than enough.
1. Crawl under your car and look at the rear diff. (If you do not know what the rear diff looks like, I highly suggest not doing this yourself) I did not use a jack and was able to get under. There are two 24mm bolts, one on the bottom face of the diff, and one facing rearward towards the anti roll bar. The bolt on the bottom is the magnetic drain plug. The bolt towards the rear is the fill plug.
2. BEFORE you remove the drain plug, make sure that there is enough clearance for your socket and wrench to get around to the back and loosen the fill plug. To be sure, just loosen it until it moves a bit so you know you can get it off.
3. Remove the bottom plug and drain the oil. It's not much, slightly more than half a quart. Clean the metal shavings from the plug and set it aside. Wait about 15-20 minutes for the oil to drain. Be sure when removing the plug that you get the washer as well. It sometimes sticks to the diff and it's easy to overlook.
4. Clean and replace the magnetic drain plug. I torqued it to 23 lb-ft because that's what the specs are for the transfer case and MT. (If I'm wrong correct me). Remove the fill plug on the back face of the diff. It is the same socket size (24 mm). Again, be sure not to lose the washer.
5. Insert the hose from your pump into the fill plug. To get a less kinked hose, I ran mine over the anti roll bar and then into the hole.
6. For the gear oil pumps to work well, the pumping needs to start with the oil bottle elevated. IF your pump is like mine, with an intake hose and an output hose, have a friend hold the bottle up high with the intake hose in it, so gravity will help start the pumping. Once the hoses fill up it's not so important to have the oil bottle elevated.
7. Pump, pump, pump away until you see oil start seeping back out of the diff. This should be no more than .58 quarts, but might be less due to the old oil remaining in the diff. You can never really get it all out.
8. Replace the fill plug and you're done. Drive around happily.
Ever get those pics
thx for the write-up, this was really easy, i did have to go get a 24mm open wrench since my 1/2"drive wrench w/ 24mm socket could not fit... one minor problem i ran into was with the hand pump i have, it has the tubing ID smaller then 3/8", but with some patience i got it done...
like mentioned by the OP if you take aquick pick theres:
"one on the bottom face of the diff, and one facing rearward towards the anti roll bar."
there is no pics needed, you cannot miss these two 24mm boltheads, they are the biggest in that area...
like mentioned by the OP if you take aquick pick theres:
"one on the bottom face of the diff, and one facing rearward towards the anti roll bar."
there is no pics needed, you cannot miss these two 24mm boltheads, they are the biggest in that area...
Last edited by Slick-IX; Dec 21, 2009 at 07:42 AM.
