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Blox front/bottom engine mount help!!!

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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 08:19 PM
  #16  
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From: town full of ricers.. East side WA
here are some pics of what im dealing with...... oki panoki im gonna try to wiggle the engine around a bit, might sound dumb wut u use to move ur engine around???
Attached Thumbnails Blox front/bottom engine mount help!!!-photo-1-3-.jpg   Blox front/bottom engine mount help!!!-photo-2-3-.jpg  
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 09:13 PM
  #17  
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just slip your jack underneath and use that to help raise/lower your engine.
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 09:37 PM
  #18  
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i was about to install this this weekend hopefully i dont run into this issue..
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 10:08 PM
  #19  
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yea thats exactly how mine was! you'll get it. just use the jack to raise/ lower the engine until you get it as close as you can and see if you can wiggle the bolt thru. you can also use a screw driver or something and pry from the other side to try to get more clearance if you have to
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Old Mar 29, 2011 | 10:25 PM
  #20  
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From: Humboldt/Sac County, CA
I use a long drift punch, a screwdriver would work too though. Just stick it in through the bolthole of the outer mount and into the center of the blox mount and pry that sucker till its lined up. Easist and most painless way to get it in lined up enough for the bolt to go in.
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Old Mar 30, 2011 | 04:14 AM
  #21  
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From: Massachusetts
First make sure that it is not flipped as the mount isnt perfectly symmetrical. Once you have established the right direction then bolt it down to the lower crossmember. Assuming you diid the first two steps properly all you need to do now to get it to fit is get a jack under there to adjust for the difference. If the jack method doesnt work for you then get a long screwdriver through the two holes and use a little leverage to line them up. It will fit so hang in there.
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Old Mar 30, 2011 | 11:13 AM
  #22  
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From: Baltimore, MD
^this is true, it is not symetrical. i flipped mine twice cuz i thought it was wrong but the other way was even worse

OP, this thing is worth your frustration thou!
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Old Mar 30, 2011 | 09:07 PM
  #23  
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^^^^^^^^is it?? explain please...
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Old Mar 30, 2011 | 09:58 PM
  #24  
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From: FL
Just stick a screw driver in on one end and use prying type motion to help align the other end. When it aligns, put the bolt through and simultaneously pull the screw driver out.
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Old Mar 31, 2011 | 11:47 AM
  #25  
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From: town full of ricers.. East side WA
Thnx for all the help guys I really appreciate it , gonna give it another try right now
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Old Mar 31, 2011 | 01:16 PM
  #26  
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From: town full of ricers.. East side WA
Alright got it on and took it for a spin definitely noticed a difference it felt smoother and shifting was also better not to much more vibration... Well that I noticed at least lol... Darn licp coupler popped off during drive so now I got that to fix but that ez. Overall I'm happy with how it feels now . Btw I used that screwdriver technique and it helped so much anybody else ever have the same problem just use a screwdriver like these guys said and install will be a breeze. Thnx again guys for ur help.
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Old Mar 31, 2011 | 02:15 PM
  #27  
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From: Baltimore, MD
Originally Posted by BuBBasEVO
^^^^^^^^is it?? explain please...
the 1-2 shift is the most noticeable difference. i have always had trouble shifting into second from high rpm and this definitely helped. it also just makes every shift smoother, the engine jerk is alot less. i did get more vibration, at idle especially... makes my radio bezel sound like a tamborine. i dont dd the car much at all so i really dont care about that thou
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 07:10 PM
  #28  
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This thread helped me a lot today. Thanks! I tried every which way to get my mount in before coming on here. If you look at the mount carefully you will see that one of the 2 holes that mount it to the subframe is more oval. The other is round. I had the oval side facing back. And then used a screwdriver technique to force the bolt in. It is extremely hard. Especially while on your back on a driveway. I never knew my metal screwdriver could bend so much before . After I got it half way through the screwdriver no longer could align the holes properly so I put a ratchet on the bolt head for extra leverage and wiggled the bolt all the way through. I just barely had enough strength to do it. And I'm not exactly weak.

Hope my extra details will help whoever needs to install their blox mount. I'm definitely much less inclined now to pull off the subframe. Like ever.

As for impressions it works as advertised. Finally the 1-2 shift is not difficult while launching drag style. And much less engine rock at low speeds while driving around a parking lot. I also have the driveshaft solid bushings, whiteline diff bushings, and a Weapon R engine damper. With this combo (especially the damper) the vibrations under idle is practically no different. I myself wouldn't have been able to tell the mount was installed if I didn't know. When the A/C is on at idle its slightly more noticeable, I'd probably pick it out. Nothing drastic though. While driving around there is no difference in terms of NVH. IMO the engine damper is taking care of most of the vibes.

EDIT: I'd like to add after putting in polyurethane diff bushings, exhaust hangers, toe arm bushings, and now front mount I officially HATE polyurethane.

Last edited by deeman101; Aug 1, 2011 at 07:12 PM.
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