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How To Tune Your Greddy Profec B spec II

 
Old Mar 27, 2004, 07:28 AM
  #16  
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Originally posted by Hybrid1



Ben lol I almost did the same thing....I am still very keen to see how many more people have poss forgotton taking the cap out..

Are you saying you have defin let the cap in?

M
yeah, when i wrote that i knew that i left it in. so right after the post i went to my car and pulled out the cap. it runs perfect now!! i'll bet there were a bunch of people that didn't know to pull the cap out. it just seems like it'd be better for the unit to leave it in.

Ben
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Old Mar 27, 2004, 12:15 PM
  #17  
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Amazed glad your feeling the real booost now

much be quite a few out there....

All who read this thread please do make a note of saying you left the cap in just like us numptys this would help others as I think this is the main issue towards setting up.

Cheers

MOe
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Old Apr 8, 2004, 01:00 PM
  #18  
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Just another note to add to this. I just figured this out the other day.

The boost will be higher in 4th and 5th gear than all the other gears due to a higher load being placed on the engine. To fix this, use the boost limiter at the highest boost that you want the car to run (yet just under what it will run in 3rd gear). Set your boost limiter reduction setting to 2 or 3 %. That way in 4th and 5th when it hits the limiter it will reduce the set boost duty cycle by 2 or 3% (which ever you set it at) and will run approximately what it does in 3rd gear. This also works real well if you forget to turn the boost controller down when it is cold outside. It will automatically correct this foryou and protect your engine.

BTW, I have found that any gain setting over 11% will cause boost hunting. I suggest the gain setting be 11% or less. That is my $.02 worth.

Brian
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Old Apr 9, 2004, 06:37 PM
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This damn thing is a pain in the but. I can't get mine right at all. What is everyone using for a pressure source? I used the same source I used for my MBC which was tee'd off of the BOV.

Last edited by bpclements; Apr 9, 2004 at 09:42 PM.
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Old Apr 9, 2004, 08:39 PM
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Ok here is what's happening. I have the gain at 5, start boost at 15, and the set at 43. I will boost to 19psi which is right where I want it to be, but once my boost builds and hits the start boost, 15psi, pressure I get a rather annoying fluctuation. It will spike and fluctuate a bit then settle down and hold very nice to redline. I think it is happening because I have the pressure source tee'd off of the bov where I had my MBC. So, I will try to run the pressure source off of the turbo and see if this fixes my problem.
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Old Apr 9, 2004, 08:58 PM
  #21  
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The pressure source for the solenoid valve should come off the turbo outlet nipple (where the factory one went). The pressure source for the Profec B headunit can be tied into the BOV line or the FPR vacuum line, before the the FPR solenoid. I have my gain on 9% and at 45 to 46%, I get 1.35 kpa. It holds pretty solid. It appears that the boost is moving around alot, because it is a digital gauge instead of an analog gauge. the numbers are constantly changing a little bit. You would not be able to see .5 psi boost swings on a regular mechanical gauge while driving down the road. I think the Profec B Spec 2 works pretty well.

Brian
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Old Apr 9, 2004, 09:45 PM
  #22  
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I think changing the pressure source for the actuator will fix my problem definitely then. I will move it to the nipple off of the turbo in the morning. I hope this works. Thanks for the info.
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Old Apr 9, 2004, 10:00 PM
  #23  
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I don't think taking off the cap is the right thing because I remember when I first installed it, it was capped. And then after about 2 weeks of using it, boost spikes began to go crazy and I couldn't stop it no matter what I did so I went under my car and check to see if any lines or whatnot is loose. I found out that the cap fell off somehow so I replaced the cap and no more boost spikes......
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Old Apr 9, 2004, 10:02 PM
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arpad - Thumbs up all the way man
Really great write up, I actually ended up selling one of my units, but I still have one and i never really did take the cap off like everyone else, so I am positive that was my issue. Weird how the instructions do NOT mention this.

I do need the assistance from anyone that can help. On my second unit, the wires that connect to the boost *sol* came apart from the connector that connects directly to the main unit, the white and green cable. My problem is I don't know which one goes where and I've searched online and even gone to shops just to see if someone has one in stock so I can look at, but no luck. Now, Looking at the head unit from the back, right side up, with the power connector to the left, then to the right of it the boost source and all the way to the right the connector for the boost *sol*, can someone tell me which wire goes where?

scenarios:

1. white wire (left) : green wire (right)
2. green wire (left) : white wire (right)


PLEASE HELP!!!

Last edited by DrEvo; Apr 9, 2004 at 10:11 PM.
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Old May 19, 2004, 01:17 PM
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Help

Originally Posted by TURBODAWG

BTW, I have found that any gain setting over 11% will cause boost hunting. I suggest the gain setting be 11% or less. That is my $.02 worth.

Brian
Hi, I had the unit installed and it seems to be all over the map. I've been reading all of the posts and I'm just seriously confused. Does anyone have a picture of this cap that should be removed?

Second, when I'm boosting at WOT is seems like it's jerking back and forth like a valve keeps opening and closing... is that what you ment by boost hunting? I
don't think I'm leaking boost.

Also, I called Greddy for help and they told me to call someone else. I'm actually shocked at the way they just blew me off. Oh well.

-Fred
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Old May 19, 2004, 01:50 PM
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I adjusted my gain to 11% and the "boost hunting" is gone!
Now I just need to find a way to get the car to hit 20 psi consistently. =)
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Old May 22, 2004, 01:10 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by DrEvo
arpad - Thumbs up all the way man
Really great write up, I actually ended up selling one of my units, but I still have one and i never really did take the cap off like everyone else, so I am positive that was my issue. Weird how the instructions do NOT mention this.

I do need the assistance from anyone that can help. On my second unit, the wires that connect to the boost *sol* came apart from the connector that connects directly to the main unit, the white and green cable. My problem is I don't know which one goes where and I've searched online and even gone to shops just to see if someone has one in stock so I can look at, but no luck. Now, Looking at the head unit from the back, right side up, with the power connector to the left, then to the right of it the boost source and all the way to the right the connector for the boost *sol*, can someone tell me which wire goes where?

scenarios:

1. white wire (left) : green wire (right)
2. green wire (left) : white wire (right)


PLEASE HELP!!!
Hi DrEvo,
when looking at the unit from the back, right side up, the white wire is on the left and the green wire is on the right.

Sorry for the late reply, I think my subscription ran out for this thread.
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Old May 24, 2004, 08:50 AM
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THANK ARPAD! I double checked and I had it right, I'll install it in the evo this weekend and hopefully this time I'll have better luck. I'll keep you all updated.
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Old May 31, 2004, 09:30 AM
  #29  
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Great write up thanx.
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Old Sep 1, 2004, 09:25 AM
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Limiter

LIMITER is the boost percentage that the Greddy unit will lower to when the WARNING boost pressure is hit. LIMITER SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR SET VALUE MINUS 4%.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding was that the limiter value was the amount that your set value would be lowered by, so rather than setting it to your set value minus 4%, it should just be set to 4%. From the instructions:

LIMITER:
This mode is used to adjust LIMITER to lower the boost when the boost exceeds the WARNING setting. (This will lower the entered % from the SET boost valve duty rate to lower the boost)
*99% will turn off any boost control.
*0% will disable the LIMITER feature.
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