Anyone from the first posts of this thread had any issues with the (one at a time) method in this thread? I'm thinking about doing this also. 1 at a time.

I know all the risks with it. However, I haven't heard many evo guys have problems from this method.

 

i did mine this way a few months back and no problem at 29 PSI.........just be careful and take your time.....

 

I still fail to see the reasoning behind compromising a good sealing gasket and removing headbolts that will under most circumstances work perfectly fine, even under high boost levels, to install ARPs that still won't save you from blowing a headgasket from a garbage tune. You will be amazed at how strong the stock hardware is, and how much they and the headgasket can seal, so long as you keep detonation down.

If it aint broke, don't fix it. Wait untill the head has to be pulled or the engine has to come out.

 

Thanks for the great Tip
Does this apply if removing the camshafts? and if removing head?

 

Thinking about doin this soon how many of u guys used the cycle tq method? Anyone try the q tips? Lastly if not cleaning out the wholes then torquing to 85ft/lbs is recommended?

 

Great write up.

 

If you don't clean the holes, or at minimum work the studs in and out to push the oil out of the threads. No set amount of torque will remain the same after some time.

You should always bring a new fastener up to torque and back it off a few times / unless it is a torque to yield fastener. Especially if it is a critical one.

Clean the holes. Use the supplied moly lube. Keep the threads oil free so as not to mix oil/moly. (where the nut goes) It will skew the amount of force actually being applied to the fastener. If you were to measure the amount of stretch oil/moly/mix. You would understand what I mean. 85ftlbs isn't the same amount of force translated into stretch when using moly lube. A mix will grant very inconsistent results with any fastener. But is painfully obvious when torquing a fastener to stretch (such as a rod bolt)

Since you cannot measure that with a head stud, I suggest you take the amount of time it takes you, to do it right.

 

It seems to be the problem with understanding that on ARP studs you torque nut on the top of stud not stud itself. I don't see how small amount of oil under head stud can change your torque value. (YOU DON'T TORQUE STUD ITSELF!)
ARP head stud should be hand tight and then nut on the top should be torqued to certain value.

 

Have you done it this way Alex? I can see your reasoning, however; the nut will be putting pulling pressure on the stud itself. If there were a mix of oil & moly on the bottom portion of the stud, this is where the boys above mention inconsistent torque pressure.

I'm still looking for more definitive methods, does anyone have the ARP installation paper work?

Steve

 

Yes I did it on my car. And it works perfect.
I guess that is exactly the reason why ARP used stud with nut not just a bolt, like from factory.
When we did mine, all were initially torqued to 60ft/tq with one by one replacement procedure going from inside of head to outside, according to service manual.
Then we torqued them down again this time to 70ft/tq, and after few minuets to 80ft/tq same sequence. This way all was even and torqued to 80ft/tq.

 

Thanks Alex.

Can you clear up this point for me, did you do all the studs at once to 60ft/lbs using the 1x1 method, then go through the sequence inside to out & then torque to 70ft/lbs, then in seq do all to 80ft/lbs?

Or did you do each single one at 60 then 70 & lastly 80ft/lbs, then remove the next oem bolt & replace it with a arp stud, then put this single stud through 60,70 & then 80ft/lbs of torque & go onto the next oem bolt.

My reason for asking for more detail is I find your explanation above to be a little ambiguous. With my initial ques on your method/seq, I could see a possibility of less torque across all of the arp studs at 60ft/lbs compared to the stock torque that had been applied from the factory. Maybe allowing the seal to break at the gasket.

I hope you can tell the difference with my questions Alex, I'm getting tongue tired mate.

Thanks once again.

Steve

 

Simply one by one with 60ft/lb. And once you done with it, same sequence just with 70ft/lb and same sequence with 80ft/lb.
The difference between 70 and 80 is minimal. You'll see once you torque them down.
Factory ones are 60ft/lb then 90 degree yield to torque and another 90 degree yield to torque. That's a lot of torque. Overall probably much more than 80ft/lb so I will not worry about 80ft/lb breaking anything. I've heard of people complaining that after 60ft they head bolts got loose. Most shops does ARP evo studs to 80ft/lb.
On my car they're perfectly fine with 80ft/lb.
No problems whatsoever.

 

Just did it, easy as it can possibly be, so far no problems at all. we'll see how it does own the road than I'll judge the procedure, which to my personal opinion people tend to over think way too much. I'll open it up again in couple of months and see if the torque is holding.

 

nice this is what i was looking for

 

would it hurt to use something like red thread lock on side studs go into the block??
i like to be safe!!