Do not use anything going into the block with the stud. Oil/moly lube is only used on the head side of the stud.

 

Hmmmm... very interesting thread! Very tempting too!

 

Saved to my favorites

 

just wanted to add, saying that i followed the thread and everything came out great at 27 psi,

A great tip on doing it this way---------- letthe engine cool all the way down, and then remove the radiator cap to release coolant pressure... this way coolant has less of a chance to contaminate the gasket by whatever bolt was loosened

 

yet another very useful how-to

 

back from the dead!

i have a set of a1 head studs from MAP i will be installing thursday. just want to clarify some things.

ill be doing the 1x1 method. ill start from the middle of the head and work my way out. torque to 60ft/lbs... loosen and re torque to 80ft/lbs?? drive around for a little bit and heat the car up, then re torque...

sounds simple, but im making it more complicated than it is. pretty vital piece of the car to screw up

 

I put ARP head studs in, from middle out, I did 3 stages of torque , 29lbs of boost and no problems, maybe you should call a local shop to ask if your really unsure, i asked Speed Element just to make sure

 

Start in the middle of the head - there is a sequence to do the one by one which I don't have with me at the moment.

I always do a 3 or 4 step torque sequence on each bolt. So remove stock bolt, put in stud - make hand tight plus a 1/4 turn. Use assembly lube at top of stud. Then put on washer and nut. Torque to 30, then 55, then, 75, then 90-95 depending on your preference. Repeat this for the rest of the 9. Then double check all of your nuts for their final value. Drive the car and get to operating temperature for at least 20 minutes then verify torque again. They WILL need to be tightened - especially brand new bolts.. If you are super **** like me then check again after 50 miles. I also prefer to install the studs into a warm block after car has ran - although just my preference.

Good luck!

 

I think people have broken their head gasket using the 1 by 1 method because the ARP studs are torqued down tighter than the stock headstuds. When I had my ARP studs installed, the stock studs were all removed in the order shown in the service manual. The weight of the turbo and intake manifold (combined with the very large alignment dowels on the block) will keep the head from moving without head studs. Once all the stock studs were removed, the ARPs were installed and torqued down via the order shown in the service manual. My tuner installed the ARP head studs on my car almost 2 years ago, and I have no leaks in my head gasket. Also, my engine was very cold when this was done.

 

I don't think I would want to remove all the head studs just to install all 10 new studs. The meaning of the 1-1 method is to not compromise the gasket at all and simply removing one stud will not compromise the gasket.

What is most important to do whether 1-1 or full replacement is to check the torque after the motor has ran and if possible again after 5-10 miles. New bolts will stretch/settle and when putting studs into a non-freshly cleaned motor will always leave the possibility you did not seat the stud entirely. It is always good to verify the torque settings at least once a year.

 

Those people who have done it....... You guys still good? I have arp head studs on hand and I'm ready to make the switch....

 

for proper torque and to prevent lift you need to do a leak down test with the desired boost level! depending on this you could be torquing from 80-110lbs