I need to change the tranny oil and want to know the safest way to get all corners up on stands. I have a hydraulic scissor type jack similar to OEM, but hydraulic, so I can only lift one corner at a time. I have already put the front on stands to do work in the past, but not all four corners. Thanks for your replies

 

If you can get a second jack (and a friend to use it), it can make life a bit easier. When I did the oil change, I placed small plastic wheel blocks behind the rear wheels and jacked each side of the front and placed ramps under the front wheels. Then we put jack stands on the front as well. We removed the jacks and jacked up the rear and placed jack stands there as well. The car was nearly as level up in the air as if it was on the ground to drain the oil. This is probobly safety overkill, but it works for me.

 

I might add that the second jack makes tire rotations a bit easier.

 

Thanks. I need to buy 2 more stands. I put the front end on stands, then went to the back and lifted the one side in the back and the both back wheels went up even though I lifted the one back corner. Weird. Looks like it will be fine once I get the 2 more stands.

BTW, where do you place the stands in the back? Under those skids along the frame rail?

 

That's where I put them...well...I placed the jacks under them and the stands just next to them. You might also want to buy some ramps for a second layer of safety.

 

tom i got stands. i got a hydo jack.i got rhino ramps. i have everything you need.give me a call or pm or post or something.i'll help ya

 

Thanks. Unsure what fluids I'm going with. I may use GM Syncromesh or Pennzoil Syncromesh for the tranny. I wanna get it done before the 100 degree days start.

 

Well, bought GM Syncromesh today. Put the car on stands, drained the tranny. The drain plug had some metal shavings, but not much, but also had black sludge on it also.
I bought a Valvoline fluid pumper and pumped in about 3 quarts before it started running out the fill hole. I capped it right away before it made a mess. Went well.

The fluid itself looked pretty clean. I have about 4,000 miles. I will wait to change the transfer and rear diff.

 

I've got the Pennzoil Syncromesh, basically the same stuff. You should notice a significant improvement of smooth shifting. And this is from someone coming from MT-90 previously.

 

Yeah, just took a ride and it shifts sooo much smoother. Amazing difference.

Autozone only had 2 quarts of the Pennzoil. Should have went to another location since the Pennzoil is 5/qt vs. 10 at GM.

 

The change to Syncromesh was actually something that got a "WHOAAA!" out of me. It was that great of an improvement. I used to read about it and how great it was and was like yada yada yada.... and went with Redline. It was ok, but still had hard times going into 2nd. With Syncromesh it just kicks ***.

 

Ive worked under my car a few times, and each time I do I have the same question, so Ill ask it and see what responses I get. Alright, jack stands are supposed to go on the pinch weld where the jack is placed, but how do you jack the car up and put the stand underneath? I dont have ramps. Usually I just jack the car a little to the side of the reinforced pinch area, but there has to be a better way, right???

 

I use ramps and i've lifted up the car that way by lifting right next to the jackstand points, but use a jack pad on the jack head, so the pinch areas doesn't fold. I'm thinking of picking up a hydraulic scissor jack instead of using a floor jack on the same spot to lift. Also easier to take to the track, so I don't have to lug around a floor jack. Much lighter and compact. Basically same as the factory jack, but hydraulic.

 

The way to do this is to jack via the front or rear jacking points with a floor jack. Then the stands go under the pinch weld points.

While some people use this method with other cars, they normally use jacking points not designed for lifting half of the car. With the Evo I can get the car up in no time and not worry about bending / breaking something with the floor jack. The only bad news is related to pulling the front undercover to access the jacking point.

 

Noodle, I have that exact jack and it comes with a case to carry it around. works like OEM, but stronger and just pump it.

I just lifted one corner at a time and placed the jack stands along the frame rail, not the pinch welds. The front area of the frame rail has an overlap area. That's where I placed the front stands. In the back, there are little "skids" at the very back of the frame rails. I place the rear stands under those skids. These are the same locations a auto garage would use to lift your car.