Clutch job on my Evo 5...Same as in 4 & 6
Oct 3, 2002, 04:45 AM
#1
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: New York
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Clutch job on my Evo 5...Same as in 4 & 6
OK, I decided to put together some info on how to change a clutch on an evo. Considering that this is the 2nd time I do this in the past 2 months (Evos go through clutches like a fatman goes thru burgers), and that I just happened to have a camera handy, I decided to take pics of the job as we went along. I noticed that this has been a re-occuring question both on the MLR and here, and most of the time it goes unanswered, or just insignificant details are given, now i'll attempt to be as descriptive and informative as possible. Hopefully one of yous out there might use this as a reference.
My appologies for all mechanics who trully believe they are loosing money because people are becoming more and more handy with their vehicles. That's just too bad, aint it!
Woke up on a Thurs morning, realizing that EMS had dropped a package from Japan. WOW, left Japan the 17th, got here the 18th, unbelieveable! Thanks to Jimmie Tsuboi from Teiwa (highly reccomended, will give you discount on parts).
Well, this is what I got..
My appologies for all mechanics who trully believe they are loosing money because people are becoming more and more handy with their vehicles. That's just too bad, aint it!
Woke up on a Thurs morning, realizing that EMS had dropped a package from Japan. WOW, left Japan the 17th, got here the 18th, unbelieveable! Thanks to Jimmie Tsuboi from Teiwa (highly reccomended, will give you discount on parts).
Well, this is what I got..
Oct 3, 2002, 04:57 AM
#2
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: New York
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Now, I get really excited when I get anew part for my car: has to be installed immediately or I'll be too anxious. 
Planned to do the work on Sunday, took the day off Monday just in case I needed another day to accomplish the job. Began Sunday Morning, finished it at 8pm. Took me a little under 12hrs to finish.
Here are my simple, and quick explanation on how to tackle this job. If your handy with tools, strong, pay attention as you go along to what you're removing so you can put it back together, inspect every part as you go along and learn from it (how it works, etc.), you should have no problems. Can be done individually, although you'll need someone to help you when it's time to release the bearing, and someone to raise the gearbox with you incase your not using a hoist (like me). Other than that, you can easily do it alone.
Picture 1 shows a top view of the engine bay. Begin by removing all things in order to clear a path for you to have free access to the gearbox. Undo all bolts, grounds, etc. that are bolted to the box. Remove air box (intake), battery and battery box, basically anything on the way.
Observe on the first picture that there's a hole on the gearbox, right in the center of the box. There's a similar hole on the bottom of the box. These are the holes where you need to press with a screwdriver, both from the top and bottom, in order to release the bearing holding the clutch. Pay attention to the way the clutch is made and you'll see what I'm talking about. See the pic where I have the Cusco clutch exposed out of the box, the release is that center metal thingy. It's spring loaded, push it in, and the bearing gets released! Easier said than done, definetely a two men job.
Planned to do the work on Sunday, took the day off Monday just in case I needed another day to accomplish the job. Began Sunday Morning, finished it at 8pm. Took me a little under 12hrs to finish. Here are my simple, and quick explanation on how to tackle this job. If your handy with tools, strong, pay attention as you go along to what you're removing so you can put it back together, inspect every part as you go along and learn from it (how it works, etc.), you should have no problems. Can be done individually, although you'll need someone to help you when it's time to release the bearing, and someone to raise the gearbox with you incase your not using a hoist (like me). Other than that, you can easily do it alone.
Picture 1 shows a top view of the engine bay. Begin by removing all things in order to clear a path for you to have free access to the gearbox. Undo all bolts, grounds, etc. that are bolted to the box. Remove air box (intake), battery and battery box, basically anything on the way.
Observe on the first picture that there's a hole on the gearbox, right in the center of the box. There's a similar hole on the bottom of the box. These are the holes where you need to press with a screwdriver, both from the top and bottom, in order to release the bearing holding the clutch. Pay attention to the way the clutch is made and you'll see what I'm talking about. See the pic where I have the Cusco clutch exposed out of the box, the release is that center metal thingy. It's spring loaded, push it in, and the bearing gets released! Easier said than done, definetely a two men job.
Oct 3, 2002, 05:02 AM
#3
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: New York
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Proceed by removing the axles. Make sure you take the wheels off before doing that. I tend to undo the two bolts that hold up the shocks after unbolting the axles. This messes up the alignment, but I needed to do this anyway, so off with the bolts holding the shocks. Remove the pin, undo the big bolt, and if you know how to remove an axle, this should be an easy job for you. All you fast Honda owners out there that snap axles like toothpicks, you should know this better than anyone! 
Remove the axles, just pop them out. Sometimes you might need to pry them off the tansfer case ends. Just do it carefully, they are easy to remove. Don't apply too much force.
I tend to undo the two bolts that hold up the shocks after unbolting the axles. This messes up the alignment, but I needed to do this anyway, so off with the bolts holding the shocks. Remove the pin, undo the big bolt, and if you know how to remove an axle, this should be an easy job for you. All you fast Honda owners out there that snap axles like toothpicks, you should know this better than anyone! Remove the axles, just pop them out. Sometimes you might need to pry them off the tansfer case ends. Just do it carefully, they are easy to remove. Don't apply too much force.
Last edited by jigga; Oct 3, 2002 at 05:41 AM.
Oct 3, 2002, 05:09 AM
#4
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: New York
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Now, get your *** underneath that car boy! 
Undo the two mounts from underneath: You'll see what appears to be a torsion bar held together by three bolts, get that out of there also. Take all that stuff out: Undo both mounts, remove the bar with the mounts, and the torsion bar. OH, make sure you keep track of all your nuts and bolts. Just throw them all in a big box, works for me. As long as you have them, you'll know how to put them back. OK, you now have to remove the downpipe, undo the drive shaft by unbolting it off the chassis and poping it off the transfer case, remove starter motor, and remove transfer case. WOW, couldn't do it without radio entertainment.
Picture 1 shows the chassis, the downpipe off (just my decat hanging) , and you can see the shaft pushed asside. You don't need to unbolt the shaft off the rear diff., Although it is reccomended.
Pic # 2 shows my transfer case and my HKS downpipe.
Undo the two mounts from underneath: You'll see what appears to be a torsion bar held together by three bolts, get that out of there also. Take all that stuff out: Undo both mounts, remove the bar with the mounts, and the torsion bar. OH, make sure you keep track of all your nuts and bolts. Just throw them all in a big box, works for me. As long as you have them, you'll know how to put them back. OK, you now have to remove the downpipe, undo the drive shaft by unbolting it off the chassis and poping it off the transfer case, remove starter motor, and remove transfer case. WOW, couldn't do it without radio entertainment. Picture 1 shows the chassis, the downpipe off (just my decat hanging)
, and you can see the shaft pushed asside. You don't need to unbolt the shaft off the rear diff., Although it is reccomended.Pic # 2 shows my transfer case and my HKS downpipe.
Oct 3, 2002, 05:16 AM
#5
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: New York
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Undo the bolts holding the gear box to the motor. There will be a couple of cover plates removed: One on the back of the gearbox, the other by the passenger's side fender (RHD). Pay attention to what your doing. There will be two bolts holding the box to the actual motor. After they are all undone, remove the gearbox. Again, easier said than done, you might have to do some light prying, shaking the box, kicking it, well, any means to get that f*cker out! 
You can now also undo the top gearbox mount (see pic). After that the gearbox technically should come out, so be prepared. If you're doing a ghetto backyard job like me with six boxes full of rusted tools, then you probably also don't own a hoist. No Problem, just put a hydraulic jack holding the motor up, and another jack you'll use to lower the gearbox to the ground. Just lower it very slowly, check it every inch of the way, don't make stupid mistakes.
You can now also undo the top gearbox mount (see pic). After that the gearbox technically should come out, so be prepared. If you're doing a ghetto backyard job like me with six boxes full of rusted tools, then you probably also don't own a hoist. No Problem, just put a hydraulic jack holding the motor up, and another jack you'll use to lower the gearbox to the ground. Just lower it very slowly, check it every inch of the way, don't make stupid mistakes.
Last edited by jigga; Oct 3, 2002 at 05:44 AM.
Oct 3, 2002, 05:23 AM
#6
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: New York
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Finally you get to see the clutch. 
I'm tired at this point. Stopped for a few ciggaretes, heinekens, BBQuing all day, you know, the good stuff.
OK, back to work, enough
. Remove clutch, blahblah, etc. In my case, I was also removing the flywheel since the Twin PLate clutch system provided by CUSCO came complete with flywheel, disks, cover, etc. PLus, my flywheel was already baked the last time I changed the clutch, and now it looked even worse, just look at the 2nd picture. My advice is to not take any breaths when you remove the clutch. Asbestos is known to give cancer, and as Jim Carrey would say, in time you might develop a tumor. 
Take a good look at the 2nd picture. Do you think I really need a new clutch? 
I'm tired at this point. Stopped for a few ciggaretes, heinekens, BBQuing all day, you know, the good stuff. OK, back to work, enough
. Remove clutch, blahblah, etc. In my case, I was also removing the flywheel since the Twin PLate clutch system provided by CUSCO came complete with flywheel, disks, cover, etc. PLus, my flywheel was already baked the last time I changed the clutch, and now it looked even worse, just look at the 2nd picture. My advice is to not take any breaths when you remove the clutch. Asbestos is known to give cancer, and as Jim Carrey would say, in time you might develop a tumor. Take a good look at the 2nd picture. Do you think I really need a new clutch?
Oct 3, 2002, 05:35 AM
#7
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: New York
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Finally ready to put the new clutch in. Well, maybe another quick stop for the ol 
. Hey, we need a smoke icon. The clutch comes assembled, so this is a good time to undo it, check it out, inspect it thoroughly. The CUSCO Twin Plate comes with the lightened flywheel, two carbon facing clutch disks, a pressure plate, a center (lifting) plate, and a light weight aluminum cover. All great stuff, best thing I've bought for my car yet by far. Install the flywheel first, then put the rest of the parts together. Now, the plates and disks must be aligned a certain way, so pay attention to the way they have to go together. My kit came marked, with blue ink, the way they line up. If you ever get something similar, again, PAY ATTENTION TO EVERYTHING! All instructions are in Japanese, so reading them for me was like trying to figure out what's wrong with my mother, nearly impossible. Use the aligning plastic tool to, well, align it! Was a bit more work getting both disks aligned on that plastic piece, well, alittle more work would be expected considering you now have two disks to center.
Finally finished it. Now, just rewind the steps, and put everything back in it's place. The gearbox will be the toughest to put back, again, a two men job, sometimes more especially in my case. I had one person jackin it up while me and my friend raised the box with our hands, well, in my chest actually. Not to heavy, and in comparisson to other cars, I think the Evo is by far the easiest clutch job I've done. Then again, my experience is limited to a Toyo Celica and a Honda Civic.
regards,
LEE
. Hey, we need a smoke icon. The clutch comes assembled, so this is a good time to undo it, check it out, inspect it thoroughly. The CUSCO Twin Plate comes with the lightened flywheel, two carbon facing clutch disks, a pressure plate, a center (lifting) plate, and a light weight aluminum cover. All great stuff, best thing I've bought for my car yet by far. Install the flywheel first, then put the rest of the parts together. Now, the plates and disks must be aligned a certain way, so pay attention to the way they have to go together. My kit came marked, with blue ink, the way they line up. If you ever get something similar, again, PAY ATTENTION TO EVERYTHING! All instructions are in Japanese, so reading them for me was like trying to figure out what's wrong with my mother, nearly impossible. Use the aligning plastic tool to, well, align it! Was a bit more work getting both disks aligned on that plastic piece, well, alittle more work would be expected considering you now have two disks to center. Finally finished it. Now, just rewind the steps, and put everything back in it's place. The gearbox will be the toughest to put back, again, a two men job, sometimes more especially in my case. I had one person jackin it up while me and my friend raised the box with our hands, well, in my chest actually. Not to heavy, and in comparisson to other cars, I think the Evo is by far the easiest clutch job I've done. Then again, my experience is limited to a Toyo Celica and a Honda Civic.
regards,
LEE
Trending Topics
Oct 3, 2002, 06:11 AM
#8
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA.
Posts: 295
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lee,
thanks a lot for this detailed HOWTO.
Much appreciated.
Do you think this job applies to the Evo 7 as well?
I'd think not, but it never hurts to ask
thanks a lot for this detailed HOWTO.
Much appreciated.Do you think this job applies to the Evo 7 as well?
I'd think not, but it never hurts to ask
Oct 3, 2002, 06:14 AM
#9
Evolved Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: CA
Posts: 1,290
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thnx for the great how to. I hope to be getting an evo as soon as they come to the states. I am concered though about having to replace the clutch as often as you have. Twice in just 2 month? Was this alot of abuse and alot of high rpm launches or what? What kind of mods do you have on it? If you drive the car pretty normal how long should it last for. I replaced my 2k maxima's clutch under warentee early (after 33000 miles) due to a broken throwout bearing. I do drive it pretty hard though.
thnx again for the posts.
thnx again for the posts.
Oct 3, 2002, 06:22 AM
#10
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: New York
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You know, I never actually seen a 7 upclose. Then again, I'm sure it's similar. You can follow the same steps, and if certain things are different, they'll only be minor details.
I guess you own a 7. In that case, is it a LHD? If so, just flip the pictures because my gearbox is on the right side looking from the front of the vehicle, while yours will probably be like the 4g63s in the Eclipses, trainy on the other side, passenger side.
OH, forgot to mention. Make sure to put gear oil in both gearbox and transfer case after you're done. What a dumbass, forgot to mention this. I use a GL5 spec 80w90 fully synthetic gear oil: 2.8litres in gearbox, and 0.62l on the transfer case. I also went ahead and changed the rear diff oil 0.41litres, and changed the AYC fluid 0.71litres.
I guess you own a 7. In that case, is it a LHD? If so, just flip the pictures because my gearbox is on the right side looking from the front of the vehicle, while yours will probably be like the 4g63s in the Eclipses, trainy on the other side, passenger side.
OH, forgot to mention. Make sure to put gear oil in both gearbox and transfer case after you're done. What a dumbass, forgot to mention this. I use a GL5 spec 80w90 fully synthetic gear oil: 2.8litres in gearbox, and 0.62l on the transfer case. I also went ahead and changed the rear diff oil 0.41litres, and changed the AYC fluid 0.71litres.
Oct 3, 2002, 08:00 AM
#11
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: New York
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Guak007, I beat the living crap out of that clutch. Not only that, before replacing it, I rode the clutch pretty hard to the point where there was nothing gripping onto the flywheel anymore. After some research, I decided to go for an AP organic with an Evo 6 clutch cover which apparently is stronger than the 5. Mind you, I never ordered a new flywheel. When I took out the expired clutch, which was probably there from factory, I noted that the flywheel had so many blue burnt spots that replacing was the optimal thing to do. Well, turned out that I didn't want to leave my car apart waiting for a new flywheel, I wanted to add a lightweight Jun flywheel instead of yet another OEM one, and that was out of my budget at the time. I went ahead and machined it, and put the new disk and cover. So, after a few launches at 5k rpms at the drag strip, plus a few on the streets as well , it was doomed. After three runs at ETown, I could smell the burnt clutch all over the car. Also ran the car at Pocono raceway, North course, and a few more miles and the clutch began to slip. Not too bad, could have went at least another 1k miles or so depending on how hard I rode it. Couldn't keep driving like a puss forever, plus my car is alot faster now, so I decided to got with the twin plate. Total life of the AP clutch, 4.5K miles. This is the clutch on the picture above, the one removed from the car. It was completely done.
, it was doomed. After three runs at ETown, I could smell the burnt clutch all over the car. Also ran the car at Pocono raceway, North course, and a few more miles and the clutch began to slip. Not too bad, could have went at least another 1k miles or so depending on how hard I rode it. Couldn't keep driving like a puss forever, plus my car is alot faster now, so I decided to got with the twin plate. Total life of the AP clutch, 4.5K miles. This is the clutch on the picture above, the one removed from the car. It was completely done.
Last edited by jigga; Oct 3, 2002 at 08:02 AM.
Oct 3, 2002, 08:30 AM
#12
Evolved Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: CA
Posts: 1,290
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thnx for the reply, is that your silver evo? That is a sweet car. If you don't mind me asking; what was the price of the clutch kit, what kind of clutch is it technically, and what kind of HP can it handle approx. (if you know)???
Any info would be great, Thnx
Any info would be great, Thnx
Oct 3, 2002, 10:55 PM
#13
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: New York
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Guack007, that's my E5. Thanks for the remark, I think its a sweet car also.
This particular clutch kit is worth about 1400 + shipping. I know you might say, WOW, that's pretty expensive for a clutch. But consider the fact that this is a twin plate clutch, made with the highest quality materials in the industry, and that this type of clutch is good for up to 700 horsepower, and equal amounts of torque, you'll see that its money well spent as you move up the HP and torque ranges. Also, believe it or not, this is the cheapest twin plate suystem available for the Evo. Even Daikin/Exedy, American based company in Michigan, wanted to charge me 1500+ for their kit. The other choices are HKS, Ogura, etc., and these are all great clutches, yet are very expensive.
regards,
LEE
This particular clutch kit is worth about 1400 + shipping. I know you might say, WOW, that's pretty expensive for a clutch. But consider the fact that this is a twin plate clutch, made with the highest quality materials in the industry, and that this type of clutch is good for up to 700 horsepower, and equal amounts of torque, you'll see that its money well spent as you move up the HP and torque ranges. Also, believe it or not, this is the cheapest twin plate suystem available for the Evo. Even Daikin/Exedy, American based company in Michigan, wanted to charge me 1500+ for their kit. The other choices are HKS, Ogura, etc., and these are all great clutches, yet are very expensive.
regards,
LEE
Oct 8, 2002, 06:15 AM
#14
Evolved Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: CA
Posts: 1,290
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Damn, thats pretty expensive. Hopefully with the upraded materials and twin plates it'll last you a little longer hehe. thnx for the info.
Whats a twin plate like vs the stock clutch? Does it take alot more force to engage/disengage?? How does it effect the crankwalk issue???
P.S. 700HP, wow thats a pretty strong clutch, probly the tranny or diffs will break way b4 the clutch gives.
hehe. thnx for the info. Whats a twin plate like vs the stock clutch? Does it take alot more force to engage/disengage?? How does it effect the crankwalk issue???
P.S. 700HP, wow thats a pretty strong clutch, probly the tranny or diffs will break way b4 the clutch gives.
Oct 8, 2002, 07:46 AM
#15
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: New York
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Guack007
Damn, thats pretty expensive. Hopefully with the upraded materials and twin plates it'll last you a little longer hehe. thnx for the info.
Whats a twin plate like vs the stock clutch? Does it take alot more force to engage/disengage?? How does it effect the crankwalk issue???
P.S. 700HP, wow thats a pretty strong clutch, probly the tranny or diffs will break way b4 the clutch gives.
Damn, thats pretty expensive. Hopefully with the upraded materials and twin plates it'll last you a little longer
hehe. thnx for the info. Whats a twin plate like vs the stock clutch? Does it take alot more force to engage/disengage?? How does it effect the crankwalk issue???
P.S. 700HP, wow thats a pretty strong clutch, probly the tranny or diffs will break way b4 the clutch gives.
Well, at first I noticed that the pedal was significantly harder, clutch engagement was more sudden and rougher. Nevertheless, it seems to be better now after afew hundred miles. Still makes the clangy noise, but this was expected from the getgo.
WOW, funny you mention crankwalk. I know that alot of people that own 2g eclipses have complained about crankwalk, yet I never heard of evo owners complaining, or reporting such problem occuring. GREAT QUESTION BRO! We should have a separate post just to see people's response to this. I remember helping a friend do a clutch on his 98 gs-t, turned out that it was the crank moving all along. Horrifying I tell you. Hopefully I'll never have this problem.
Well, if I had 700hp on my evo, I wouldn't think alot of things would hold up, specially the weak *** diff and gearbox. Funny you mention, I've noticed that quite alot of evo owners have needed to rebuild their gearboxes once, even twice in the past. Then again, I dont know 700HP is achievable with my car. I just gave you the specs that the manufacturer (CUSCO) claims the clutch can sustain. Probably been tested on one of those insane skylines I see on those options tapes, the Suzuka trials.