DRFTKNGG

iTrader: (8)

Note from EvoM Staff: This thread has been heavily remove all unnecessarily posts and leave only the important information regarding repairing faded, cracked, or damaged carbon evo wings. Please only use this as a reference. There is no service being offered here. The original thread was entitled "Repaired ugly wing"

Here are some tips on refinishing your wing...

1.Tape up everything you dont want any overspray on.I slit the edge from top and bottom.Covered sides and bottom of wing.Overspray is easy to removed if removed promptly after spraying.

Blue painters tape is a must. Can be found at any hardware store or auto parts place.
Also purchase a block sander, and some acetone, tack cloth.

2.Start with 600 wet, a sanding block, which keeps a nice even surface as you sand away the old clear coat.
Make sure you sand all of the old clear coat!
After clear has been completely removed,use 1500 grit or 2000 to smooth the surface out.

If you dont take the time here, the finished product will look like shiot!

Acetone can be used to clean off surface after each sanding.This will also remove any oils left by your hands.
Contaminants like oils left on the surface cause whats called the "fish eye".
Surface must be washed with dawn and warm water followed by a acetone wipe down with a lint free towel/tack cloth.

Paint supply stores near you have the right supplies to help make this job easier to do right. Dupot has some clears but require to be mixed, filtered, then applied via spray gun.

There are some canned products outhere which also have a UV inhibiter already in the clear.
Here is a link to what I would use.
http://www.paintworldinc.com/product...ku=DUP.A-7480S




3. After all sanding has been completed, wipe
down spoiler with acetone. Allow to dry for a few minutes.
Place the spray can in hot water for 10 minutes.This raises can pressure for a better and more even finish.

Place spoiler in an area with minimal wind, mosture, but ventelated enough that you wont kill yourself from the fumes. Like Scott said, a spray booth is best, but as you can see, it can be done without one if care is taken. I sprayed the area I used down with water to surpress any dust as much as possible.

Take your time when spraying.
Read directions on the can as well.
Hold can 6-8 inches from surface.
Dont spray to thick. Light even coats work best.
I go across, from one end to the other.
Let it dry for 10mins, then come back and go long ways, evenly and light.
Make sure you cover the surface enough to get a nice clear smooth amount of clear on surface.

Do this process 7-8 more times.
This is building a nice thick surface. But you have to give each layer a chance to dry.
Like I said, about 10-15 mins between coats.

After you have left the wing to dry in the sun, it will harden over the next day. Take the block sander and some 2000 wet sand paper, some water, sand till surface is really smooth to the touch.Dont sand to much on the edges or you can take to much clear off.
We want just to take the imperfections out of the surface, also any orange peel that may make the surface look like an orange skin.
The block sander takes care of this with it's flat and smooth surface, unlike your hands and fingers which cause uneven pressure points of contact.

4. If you wet sand after about 6 hrs of drying time, this is the easiest way to manipulate the clear coat. After you have sanded the surface, take a nice soft waxing cloth and a good wax.
Buff the surface untill the shine is where you want it.
Becareul not to press your fingers into the new clear coat, as it still is drying.

Keep buffing wing for a ultra smooth finish.
There are also alot of waxes out now with UV inhibitors. Wax your wing after every wash.

Enjoy.



BEFORE....
AFTER....

alan678

iTrader: (18)

They do...but the waiting list is LONG...I just had my replaced...but with an Evo IX wing... Here is my thread on SoCalEvo.net

And i dunno about his wing, but this is how bad mine was looking...


Good JOB man...you should strip the whole thing down and paint your sideview mirrors and door handles black...that would be a killer look...

DRFTKNGG

iTrader: (8)

True. Many only offer the IV spoiler which I like the 8's spoiler alot better. Also these new spoilers have to be colormatched and painted. I can help keep that perfect paint and provide a new finish thats better than factory.
I use a high quality UV inhibiter that will fight the fade that you see after a few times in the sun.
Alot of people say not to wax your wing. But it's the clear coat on the dry carbon weave thats peeling and is defective just like the brake calipers.
Waxing will protect the clears only if clear coat have no imperfections for the elements to penetrate.

DRFTKNGG

iTrader: (8)

Poly-urethane clear coat with UV sun screen. I do recommend you have someone who does paint work. This is not a cheap part, so I would have it done right the first time.
Mitsubishi has a recall on the paint, therefore all components that have the defective clear coat, are covered under warrenty. I think were covered 3 years or 60K......someone check that out.

Our wings are a dry carbon type, which means the carbon was laid and mixed with the resin, and is not covered by a thick gel coat.
The white haze you see is the cleat coat lifting, or separating from the carbon fiber surface.
To fix this, you Must sand all of the old clear coat off. Start with a 600 grit, down to a 2000.
D.A. sanders are the best for this. They allow for even sanding without causing high and low sanding marks.
Make sure to clean with some warm dawn soap and water followed by a wipe down with some acetone, then the tack cloth to catch all the lint.
Spraying the spoiler needs to be done in a vented, dust free atmosphere.
If your into perfection like me and need a flawless finish.

DRFTKNGG

iTrader: (8)

If you wax the wingbefore you clear coat, you will have a mess on your hands! Paint needs to stick to a grease and lint free surface...wax, which contains solvents and carnuba would allow for the paint not to stick, causing you a big waste of your time, and money.
Also if your not careful you can damage the carbon fiber itself by sanding it to much.
It's a little more complicated than that this post.
I dont recommend anyone to trying this without some basic painting know how.
Sanding it in steps is ok, but dont wax untill it has been cleared. And dont clear untill you have gone over it with 2000 grit. If not, you will see the scratches made from the heavier grit sandpaper you used earlier.
Also, a good quality carbon fiber hood should be a wet style carbon fiber with a uv inhiniter already mixed into the gelcoat. There should'nt be any reason to have to re-clear a new CF. hood.

hondafan

iTrader: (25)

do you sand and paint all of the exposed carbon, insides and bottom or just the top where most damage occurs?

Rob W.

iTrader: (8)

You say you must sand until the clear is completely gone, but then don't you end up sanding and messing up the CF too?

DRFTKNGG

iTrader: (8)

Nope.

DRFTKNGG

iTrader: (8)

Alright guys here is the easy way to remove the wing.

Once the 4 bolts have been removed from inside the trunk. Close the trunk lid completely.
Now we have to loosen the two locking clips and the doubled sided tape.
Push up on sides of wing close to the edges as possible, from underneth the wing.
I start on one side carefully pushing up from front to back, a little at a time.
This loosens the tape. Some wings pop right off, sometimes the tape can be stubborn. If this happens, use a piece of plastic, I use a wedge from a slim jim kit that's 100% plastic, and wont marr the surface.
Take your time. doing this with the trunk lid closed is the easiest way.
Becareful not to yank to hard to get the trunk lid off,as the trunk lid is aluminum.

EvoIXMR

iTrader: (66)

Anyone know how to take the spoiler apart? I would like to take the 2 sides apart to ship it!

DRFTKNGG

iTrader: (8)

Unfortunatly, they cannot be disassembled. The sides are riveted on. You will destroy it trying!

BlueDemon

iTrader: (22)

What's wrong with the ix's????

azredevo

iTrader: (2)

the ix's use thinner carbon fibre (flimsier) and abs plastic on the side instead of genuine carbon fibre. Easy test.... the inside of the viii's is not painted, and the ix is. also knock on a viii wing and knock on a ix wing. the ix wing feels cheap in comparison. that's why everyone wants their wing refinished vs. going to the dealer and getting a IX wing. we'd rather pay to keep the good stuff than get crap for free. my .02

MYEVOVIII

iTrader: (35)

Well it may be impossible after all I talked to My service rep at my dealership and he said they are having trouble and may not be able to get me a VIII wing and are wanting to give me a IX wing. I told him I want to keep waiting, I am one of those die hard keep the car correct guys. A IX wing on an VIII is not corect. And I want it to be correct. So I am gonna give then a while longer and wait. I keep hearing about how the IX wing is so inferior and I hate to go that route and really want my VIII wing on there. If I decide to bite the bullet and remove mine and send it to you is it really hard to remove. I dont want to damage my trunk. I might have missed it but do you have any step by step removal instructions and how or what I do with the holes for the week I am waiting to get it back.
Thanks MYEVOVIII

Dream Came True

iTrader: (7)

I also got Evo 9 wing and the dealer agreed to replace mine with Evo 8's. The dealer got the wing but they closed the business. I called the Mitsu Corporate but they said they can not do anything since my warranty expired. My freakin warranty expired since they made me wait for a looooooooooooooooong time. I am pissed.