How To: Blox Front Motor Mount Install
How To: Blox Front Motor Mount Install
Hey Guys,
I received the Blox front motor mount/roll stopper in the mail today and thought it would be a good idea to write a "how to."
I would first like to start by saying this is a very easy install and can be done on the floor of your garage in about 15 to 20 minutes, however, I encourage you to take your time to make sure everything is done right.
Some of these pictures were taken after the install to add greater detail to this write up.
This is the the Blox Front Motor Mount:
It comes with two 17mm bolts and a nice sticker to add to your collection:
1. Start by jacking up the front of the car, making sure the parking brake is up and the car is in gear.
2. Locate the cross member underneath your motor and trans:
3. Locate the stock front motor mount. It will have a long 14mm bolt and a 14mm nut on the other end like so. Its a tight squeeze between the radiator hose and this nut, but its still easily accessible. I used a socket on one end and an open end wrench on the other to keep the bolt from rotating with the nut when trying to loosen it. Remove this first.
4. At this point I slid a jack under the trans to keep the entire assembly from settling. This was just a precautionary measure.
5. Next, remove the 14 mm bolt holding the front chassis brace to the cross member, and the 14mm bolt's holding that same brace to the chassis on the other side of the car, so that you could move it out of the way completley:
6. Next, Locate the two 17mm bolts holding the front of the cross member to the chassis and unbolt these:
7. At this point the cross member will fall from the front so it might be a good idea to support it with something as you remove the last bolt from the rear.
8. Locate the rear 17mm cross member bolt and remove this as well:
9. At this point there will be nothing left holding the cross member in place and you can slide it out from under the car. This is what you should have:
10. The bolts holding the stock motor mount onto the cross member are torqued to hell. So you may need another person to help you hold down the cross member as you remove the two 14 mm bolts securing the stock motor mount:
11. This is a little visual comparison on how the stock motor mount looks compared to the blox mount:
Need I say more?
12. After removing the stock mount, bolt up the blox mount to the cross member using the two 17 mm bolts provided in the box. There is some debate on the orientation one should bolt the mount because one of the holes on the blox mount is slightly elongated to allow for some variances from cross member to cross member. I bolted it up so that the elongated circle was towards the rear of the car and the perfect circle was towards the front. However, it does not matter which way you choose, everything will line up the same way:
13. Once you've torqued down the blox motor mount onto your cross member, follow the steps backwards and you should be golden.
14. Many people seem to have some trouble lining up the hole on motor mount to the hole on the stock bracket on the trans/motor to push the bolt through, it's not hard at all. All you have to do is take a screwdriver and line up the holes on one side while simultaneously pushing the bolt through on the other side.
Ok guys that just about covers it. I tested the product and found that my car shifts better and feels better. I did not experience any extra noise or vibrations during idle, just a minimum noise increase during cruise. Over all, one hell of a good product!
-Pal215
I received the Blox front motor mount/roll stopper in the mail today and thought it would be a good idea to write a "how to."
I would first like to start by saying this is a very easy install and can be done on the floor of your garage in about 15 to 20 minutes, however, I encourage you to take your time to make sure everything is done right.
Some of these pictures were taken after the install to add greater detail to this write up.
This is the the Blox Front Motor Mount:
It comes with two 17mm bolts and a nice sticker to add to your collection:
1. Start by jacking up the front of the car, making sure the parking brake is up and the car is in gear.
2. Locate the cross member underneath your motor and trans:
3. Locate the stock front motor mount. It will have a long 14mm bolt and a 14mm nut on the other end like so. Its a tight squeeze between the radiator hose and this nut, but its still easily accessible. I used a socket on one end and an open end wrench on the other to keep the bolt from rotating with the nut when trying to loosen it. Remove this first.
4. At this point I slid a jack under the trans to keep the entire assembly from settling. This was just a precautionary measure.
5. Next, remove the 14 mm bolt holding the front chassis brace to the cross member, and the 14mm bolt's holding that same brace to the chassis on the other side of the car, so that you could move it out of the way completley:
6. Next, Locate the two 17mm bolts holding the front of the cross member to the chassis and unbolt these:
7. At this point the cross member will fall from the front so it might be a good idea to support it with something as you remove the last bolt from the rear.
8. Locate the rear 17mm cross member bolt and remove this as well:
9. At this point there will be nothing left holding the cross member in place and you can slide it out from under the car. This is what you should have:
10. The bolts holding the stock motor mount onto the cross member are torqued to hell. So you may need another person to help you hold down the cross member as you remove the two 14 mm bolts securing the stock motor mount:
11. This is a little visual comparison on how the stock motor mount looks compared to the blox mount:
Need I say more?
12. After removing the stock mount, bolt up the blox mount to the cross member using the two 17 mm bolts provided in the box. There is some debate on the orientation one should bolt the mount because one of the holes on the blox mount is slightly elongated to allow for some variances from cross member to cross member. I bolted it up so that the elongated circle was towards the rear of the car and the perfect circle was towards the front. However, it does not matter which way you choose, everything will line up the same way:
13. Once you've torqued down the blox motor mount onto your cross member, follow the steps backwards and you should be golden.
14. Many people seem to have some trouble lining up the hole on motor mount to the hole on the stock bracket on the trans/motor to push the bolt through, it's not hard at all. All you have to do is take a screwdriver and line up the holes on one side while simultaneously pushing the bolt through on the other side.
Ok guys that just about covers it. I tested the product and found that my car shifts better and feels better. I did not experience any extra noise or vibrations during idle, just a minimum noise increase during cruise. Over all, one hell of a good product!
-Pal215
Last edited by Pal215; Dec 29, 2011 at 05:38 PM.
Aftermarket engine and transmission mounts are typically more rigid that stock mounts. This works to eliminate slop. When the engine it exerting torque on the drivetrain, the opposite force (see Newton's laws here 
) is on the mounts. This means that the engine is trying to flop around like a dead fish in the engine bay. This is not optimal and will induce misalignment in the drivetrain. The aftermarket mounts will lock everything more in position and make the torque transmission from the engine to the drivetrain more efficient. The level to which the mounts lock the engine in place depends on the stiffness of the mounts. There are some solid metal mounts. There are polyurethane mounts of different hardness and designs. The stock mounts are usually made of a metal bushing encapsulated in rubber designed with a certain amount of give.
The downside to aftermarket mounts is that they can induce increased NVH (Noise, vibration, and harshness) in the car...
) is on the mounts. This means that the engine is trying to flop around like a dead fish in the engine bay. This is not optimal and will induce misalignment in the drivetrain. The aftermarket mounts will lock everything more in position and make the torque transmission from the engine to the drivetrain more efficient. The level to which the mounts lock the engine in place depends on the stiffness of the mounts. There are some solid metal mounts. There are polyurethane mounts of different hardness and designs. The stock mounts are usually made of a metal bushing encapsulated in rubber designed with a certain amount of give.The downside to aftermarket mounts is that they can induce increased NVH (Noise, vibration, and harshness) in the car...
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Aftermarket engine and transmission mounts are typically more rigid that stock mounts. This works to eliminate slop. When the engine it exerting torque on the drivetrain, the opposite force (see Newton's laws here ) is on the mounts. This means that the engine is trying to flop around like a dead fish in the engine bay. This is not optimal and will induce misalignment in the drivetrain. The aftermarket mounts will lock everything more in position and make the torque transmission from the engine to the drivetrain more efficient. The level to which the mounts lock the engine in place depends on the stiffness of the mounts. There are some solid metal mounts. There are polyurethane mounts of different hardness and designs. The stock mounts are usually made of a metal bushing encapsulated in rubber designed with a certain amount of give.
The downside to aftermarket mounts is that they can induce increased NVH (Noise, vibration, and harshness) in the car...
) is on the mounts. This means that the engine is trying to flop around like a dead fish in the engine bay. This is not optimal and will induce misalignment in the drivetrain. The aftermarket mounts will lock everything more in position and make the torque transmission from the engine to the drivetrain more efficient. The level to which the mounts lock the engine in place depends on the stiffness of the mounts. There are some solid metal mounts. There are polyurethane mounts of different hardness and designs. The stock mounts are usually made of a metal bushing encapsulated in rubber designed with a certain amount of give.The downside to aftermarket mounts is that they can induce increased NVH (Noise, vibration, and harshness) in the car...
nice clear write up, when i did mine forever and a day ago i couldnt be happier! With the Blox mount and my kelford 272's it makes for a lopey ride (i love lope ) but it shifts so nice!
) but it shifts so nice!
