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How to buff & repair headlights (fix road haze & chips)

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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 08:26 AM
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How to buff & repair headlights (fix road haze & chips)

Hey Evom, I know there are some film or after coatings people apply on their head lights afterwards. If you know the name of the compound that would be great if you could add it here.

This is what mine looked like before I began:



Tools you will need:
3" extension
10mm socket
500, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 grit wet sand paper.
Dawn soap
Small bucket
Warm water
Some kind of buffer
Buffing compound
Microfiber style type cloth
Windex


NOTE: If you would like to remove your headlights so you don't get buffing compound all over your car start at "Step 1". If you don't want to remove your lights start at "Step 3".

Step 1.) First you want to wash the head light so it's clean, then start with removing your front bumper. A trick to helping people who haven't removed their front bumper before. After you have all the necessary hardware removed to pull off the front bumper. Lift up around the headlight area grabbing the side of the bumper and somewhere around the front for good leverage and then pull outwards. There is a little lip on the front crash beam that keeps the bumper in place and doesn't allow you to pull the bumper directly off.

Removal of VIII bumper:


or if you have an IX, removal of IX bumper:


Step 2.) Next you want to remove the headlight. There are 4 bolts to remove. Two on the top, one on the side, and one on the front. Once you have completed this step, skip "Step 3" and begin at "Step 4". You also will need to tape off the rubber strip that goes around the headlight.


Step 3.) If you have decided not to remove your headlights, be sure to tape off your vehicle with blue painters tape about 5 inches around the light. You want to make sure you don't scratch your paint when wet sanding. Use painters tape because it sticks well, doesn't leave residue behind and it's easy to remove. Then wash your light so you don't have debris on it when wet sanding. If you have to use the same bucket of water you will be wet sanding it with, pour it out and refill it with soap and water.

Step 4.) Get a huge bowl or a small bucket and fill it with warm soapy water. I find it is best to use dawn dish soap. Grab your 500 grit sand paper and fold it into 3 hamburger style then dip it on the soapy water.

If you have removed your light, before you begin step 5 be sure you take an air compressor and thoroughly blow all of the crap off of your light. If you don't have an air compressor use a brush and a vacuum.

Step 5.) Next you will start sanding. Put the corner of the sand paper between your thumb and your hand and place the rest of the sand paper flat below your palm. The smoother you do this the better it will come out. Now start sanding in a circular motion. You will want to make sure you have good coverage and do this over your entire light. You will start with 500 and continue all the way through 2000 grit. Be sure to take your time, and repeat "Step 5" with all grits until you are finished. (Note: You may skip sand paper grits if you don't have them, but I find it best to step up as much as you can to give it the best shine possible. Make sure not to stop below 1500 grit.)

This is what your light will look like once you are done sanding it.


Step 6.) Next you will buff your light with a car paint buffing wheel & buffing compound. Since I did not have the correct attachment I used my DA instead. Apply the compound directly to the buffing pad, then smear it all over the light and start buffing. DO NOT press hard and let the compound and the wheel do all of the work. You don't want to burn your light.

Step 7.) Use an extremely soft cloth to wipe off the buffing compound. Then spray the headlight with Windex and wipe all of the buffing compound off off.

This is what they will look like once they are complete:

Last edited by Graphic; Jan 9, 2013 at 08:41 AM.
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 08:58 PM
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They look pretty good! Just wondering if you used some sort of UV wax/sealer to seal up the lens? I'd definitely recommend it.
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 09:16 PM
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Any recommendations of a brand/type I can pick up locally?
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 09:20 PM
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I think its mothers who makes the head light sealer i use... Works great in the horrible el paso sun
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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 09:35 PM
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Also i finish with trizact 3000 grit... It makes then really clear even without polishing. But of course you dont wanna half *** something like this
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 01:07 PM
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I think it was mentioned before but its important to have a uv protectant afterward.
Without this protectant, the headlights will dull again in 2-3 months.
I used a meguiars headlight kit and it came with it.

I've restored my headlights 3 or 4 times and this last time Ive used the uv protectant, ive noticed no hazing.
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Old Nov 2, 2013 | 09:10 AM
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Anyone have recommendations about how long into the life of the car you should wait before doing this the first time? I've read that once you do this the first time you're stuck doing it periodically. Mine evo is 2003 but has been garaged its whole life.

Once you do this once, what is a typical timeframe to have to do it again?

Finally, any headlight kits to stay away from? or is anything from an auto store generally OK?

thanks,
Warren
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Old Nov 2, 2013 | 02:33 PM
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I wouldn't do this until your lenses have road haze. Currently I'm using stuff for RV & boat protectant. I'm going sand them down more later when I have time over the winter to make them look smoother. Once you do that, you need protectant and they'll last. My lights still look as good as they did when I first did this. There are kits you can buy for 25 dollars that work on a drill. I'd recommend something like that.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 09:14 PM
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Need to do something about my headlights. I'll give it a try. Thanks!
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Yang_2012
Need to do something about my headlights. I'll give it a try. Thanks!
There is also a kit you can buy to make things easy by 3m at O'Reilly's or other auto parts stores. It's typically on the counter
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 05:40 PM
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Is there a more permanent sealer that could be applied like an automotive clear coat as opposed to a compound?
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 08:02 PM
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I found even after sanding and buffing my headlights were still a little hazy I made my own sealant and they came up like brand new.
Urethane (for wood) comes in a small paint can\tin
Mineral Turpentine

Mix a small amount of urethane and turps 1:1 and get a rag to wipe it onto the headlight. Don't worry about any streaks they will generally blend in when it drys. Leave to dry for 6 hours (overnight) avoid touching them while they dry or you will leave permanent finger prints and will have to redo all over again.

Oh and wear gloves if the sealant gets all over your hands it can be a ***** to clean off.
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 03:16 PM
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you can also use plastix by meg's for lighter polishing work and touch-ups.

OP, nice write-up!
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 03:32 PM
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Buy the Meguiar's heavy duty headlight restorer kit. Comes with everything you need and will make your headlights look brand spanking new. I used this on a lot of headlights that were badly damaged and even used it on my JDM head's! Comes with PlastX and a UV protectant

http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.do?q=4847
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Old Nov 24, 2013 | 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by EvokidIX
Buy the Meguiar's heavy duty headlight restorer kit. Comes with everything you need and will make your headlights look brand spanking new. I used this on a lot of headlights that were badly damaged and even used it on my JDM head's! Comes with PlastX and a UV protectant

http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.do?q=4847


Nice man good info! I'll try that out next.

I have been using RV & carbon fiber protectant when I buff my car and my headlights are still the same quality. I also believe there is a 3m version of that at O'Reillys auto parts for 19 dollars. I haven't tried it though.

Last edited by Graphic; Nov 24, 2013 at 12:14 AM.
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