I'm currently re-installing my Bilstein HD struts with GTWorx springs, but the holes for the camber bolts are way off (Strut holes are 1 inch+ longer than steering knuckle). I've tried prying/muscling it a bit, but with no success.

I did a bunch of searching on this site and Google in general, but I found nothing clearly related. I've had the front end of the car up on stands for 6-7 months (also installing rebuilt head, bbk, etc.), so I'm not sure if that would affect anything? I didn't remove the axle, as I didn't think it was required, but will probably try that next.

Has anyone else run into this issue? I didn't have that much trouble installing them the first time around, but I'm afraid something happened while the car has been up in the air for this extended period of time.

I can take pics later tonight to clearly show what I'm talking about.

Thanks in advance!

 

jack wishbone up

 

Just to clarify, the strut extends down past the knuckle, so jacking up the wishbone would further exacerbate the problem. Unless you are referring to changing my jack point all together.

 

you have lost me , any pic ??

 

Here's a picture of what I'm talking about.

http://imgur.com/lM48c37

 

You can try and clean up the knuckle with an angle grinder and a scotch brite pad and also do the inside of the strut too. Lightly, just to remove the rust. Might help it slide in a little easier. I would also try lightly hitting the knuckle down with a brass hammer or even a rubber mallet. Usually you have to sort of wiggle it back in place for lack of better words.

 

Actually it slips in ok, for the picture it wouldn't stay together. I'm mainly referring to the 1.5" vertical offset between the holes. I can't seem to budge the knuckle, I may just try removing the axle and see if that helps.

 

It just looks like a misalignment. What I suggest is the same about cleaning up the sides with a sandpaper flap wheel on an angle grinder. Yes it may slide in, but something is holding it up and preventing it from sliding up and down. Oh, that sounded exactly how I wanted it to...

I would also pull the knuckle out, and pull out on the strut a bit and get the bottom hole in first, then push over the top and put in the top bolt. This is a car, not brain surgery and can require some muscle to get it to behave. Or maybe a to get you in the mood.

The other way is to unbolt the strut from the top of the chassis and install the bottom bolts first.... then put a jack under the arm, raise it and then but the top bolts on.

You already did one good deed... you disconnected the swaybar. That was my first thought, but you already have that done.

Take your time and you'll get it.

Technical10

 

Update:

After removing both axles, I was able to get the strut low enough to line up the bottom bolts and then it was easy. I think the issue was the axles were disconnected internally and I wasn't able to manipulate them back together (jammed/seized) leaving me with little movement with the knuckle.

Thank you all for the help.

 

So nice being able to go to a forum like this for help.

 

ran into a similar issue yesterday when upgrading my kyb to bilstein mr. Since my car was already on jack stands, we just used the floor jack to raise the arm? until it lined up with the holes in the strut. Rubber mallet helps as well

 

That's what I had to do.

Let me tell you, installing new struts alone was one sweaty experience.

 

Agreed! We couldn't even use air tools to remove one of the rear strut because the nut attached to the lower bolt was "deformed" for whatever reason.


Ended up using a breaker bar and sacrificing a 17mm socket. What a good friend I have lol

 

I just installed lca with new bushings and I am about 3" too high on the lca. I cant even pry the lca down enough to get the strut on.