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Evo How Tos / InstallationsPost or link to your detailed how to / installation articles in here. If you have any questions regarding the how tos, feel free to post them in the Request sub-forum.
Has anyone taken apart their transfer case with everything exposed?
Im trying to do a thorough cleaning and remove the middle section to inspect the bearings etc. I dont know If I need a press or not... dont want to start prying away with these fragile parts. I have the tail shaft removed. and on the middle section I have those bolts removed and pried gently but it seems to be getting stuck. Any insight will be appreciated..
how is it removed? Does that large nut have to be removed first? It didnt look like it was in the way in order to remove that middle section after the bolts are removed
So I'm going to bump this up as there's very limited info on transfer case disassembly. How is the pinion housing removed, can the pinion nut remain on or off to be removed? The pinion gear looks like it's too big to pull out of the center section. Any info would be great. Thanks
Would be awesome to gain some insight on 8/9 Transfer Case dissasembly/rebuild for the DIY'ers.
I know shims are not ready available and most use ones from a different application if needed. Mitsubishi never released a real FSM because if there was ever an issue, entire unit replacement were the instructions to the Dealerships.
BUMP Incase Anyone Out There well knowledged would be so kind as to shed some light to the community of DIY'ers!
Here are pics of the Pinion Nut. As you can see, the shaft is very long and there arent any standard sockets that are readily available that will reach that far. I've included a pic of the measurement of the pinion nut from side to side. I was thinking maybe using an Inner Tie Rod end removal tool to take it off/retorque it after the bearings are replaced but even then the dimensions likely won't match.
Any help that anyone has on this would be extremely appreciated! It is seriously such a mystery on these due to the lack of information via Mitsu for repair.
I just use an adjustable open wrench for bearings, why do you need a deep socket?
Great question!
I am new to this, and was under the impression that the pinion nut would need a certain torque spec. From the people I've spoke to that build their own differentials (150+mph trap/Sub 9 second RWD setups) they do not torque the pinion nut to a certain number. They go by feel of "drag" on the pinion gear and backlash of the set.
I take that with a grain of salt. I know there are multiple shops who build high power capable units for us, I know that the information pertaining to the tcase is fairly mysterious and even Mitsu called for entire unit replacements rather than repair. Hoping maybe by bringing some attention to this I can a person that's in the know to give some good pointers without giving their business secrets away so that people like myself can do it.
Or I go trial by fire and post my results for future generations haha.
I get it. its good to follow recommended numbers. roller bearings are just rolling and shafts/lsd units are just floating IMO. you just need the right amount of 'slack and gaps' where its needed. My pinion housing was replaced tho after I broke my R&P. TRE determined the housing was out of spec by some really small number - I guess that where you might need their expertise.
I have friends who are professional mechanics and still destroy R&Ps when they go drifting
@awd86 There is no mystery here. Hardened ring and pinion gear sets and angular contact roller bearings are readily available for the Evo7/8/9 transfer case. Pinion shaft shims can easily be cut from shim stock if required. Backlash and gear contact patterns settings require a dial gage, some colored grease and knowledge of how to set up a diff - see the instructions for the rear diff in the FSM for information on how to do this. The initial torque setting I have used successfully for the transfer case pinion shaft nut is 130 ft/lbs, followed by further adjustment to get 9-11 in/lbs of drag. It is important not to exceed the initial torque or you will flat spot the rollers and put divots in the races requiring another set of new bearings. Have fun doing it and let us know how it goes!
Last edited by CDrinkH2O; Apr 27, 2022 at 11:23 AM.
There is no mystery here. Hardened ring and pinion gear sets and angular contact roller bearings are readily available for the Evo7/8/9 transfer case. Pinion shaft shims can easily be cut from shim stock if required. Backlash and gear contact patterns settings require a dial gage, some colored grease and knowledge of how to set up a diff - see the instructions for the rear diff in the FSM for information on how to do this. The initial torque setting I have used successfully for the transfer case pinion shaft nut is 130 ft/lbs, followed by further adjustment to get 9-11 in/lbs of drag. It is important not to exceed the initial torque or you will flat spot the rollers and put divots in the races requiring another set of new bearings. Have fun doing it and let us know how it goes!
Seriously. Thank you so much! How exactly are you torqueing the Pinion Nut? I was looking at Inner Tie rod end removal tools but it appears the nut is 41mm which is not common. Next step was to make a socket.
Seriously. Thank you so much! How exactly are you torqueing the Pinion Nut? I was looking at Inner Tie rod end removal tools but it appears the nut is 41mm which is not common. Next step was to make a socket.
Jul 30, 2017, 11:43 AM
