UR 3pc Polished Intercooler Pipes Instock for $199!
Your list sounds about right. Another thing..problem I ran into is the bov connection on the uicp is 1/4" smaller than the bov tube. Which will create problems because there is no way to tighten the clamp enough to seal good. There are a few things I'm trying...one of them is using rubber tape to help thicken it and create a better seal.
I think the 2.75" to 2" transition he recommended was supposed to be a 2.75 to 2.5" transition. The uicp is 2.5" but the t-body is real close to 2.75" I ended up just using a stright 2.5" coupling and got it to stretch enough to get it on the t-body.
Another note for those that are buying this icp'ing keep in mind it is made for the STOCK intercooler. I am having even more issues finding the correct couplings/pieces because of the extra width of my Buschur fmic.
And lastly there are no support brackets like the stock pipes (I don't think any aftermarket pipes have the support brackets). This intercooler will rock back and forth if not supported in some way. Using zip ties in a few places is all it should take though.
I think the 2.75" to 2" transition he recommended was supposed to be a 2.75 to 2.5" transition. The uicp is 2.5" but the t-body is real close to 2.75" I ended up just using a stright 2.5" coupling and got it to stretch enough to get it on the t-body.
Another note for those that are buying this icp'ing keep in mind it is made for the STOCK intercooler. I am having even more issues finding the correct couplings/pieces because of the extra width of my Buschur fmic.
And lastly there are no support brackets like the stock pipes (I don't think any aftermarket pipes have the support brackets). This intercooler will rock back and forth if not supported in some way. Using zip ties in a few places is all it should take though.
Thanks for your response here, nice to know I was not crazy!!! I have the Buschur FMIC as well that was the stock replacement and not the deluxe so I guess I should be ok there as it is "almost" a stock replacement part....
Can you shed any light on where the two 45' elbows go? I see that one connects the opposite end of the long pipe that has the BOV and TB connection to the lower IC pipe on that side, where does the other go? I have the AMS LICP and I am not sure I will replace it with this, but it is a single piece and may be better. The AMS LICP was a pain to fit with the Buschur standard IC... Any insight you have as to how this thing slips together is greatly appreciated as it will save the rest of us the puzzle...
Thanks!
Can you shed any light on where the two 45' elbows go? I see that one connects the opposite end of the long pipe that has the BOV and TB connection to the lower IC pipe on that side, where does the other go? I have the AMS LICP and I am not sure I will replace it with this, but it is a single piece and may be better. The AMS LICP was a pain to fit with the Buschur standard IC... Any insight you have as to how this thing slips together is greatly appreciated as it will save the rest of us the puzzle...
Thanks!
Last edited by cdavy; Aug 5, 2005 at 05:55 PM.
I also have the "standard" Buschur fmic. I wouldn't simply call it aa stock replacement. It's a good bit bigger than stock and not a whole lot different from the deluxe other than the fact it doesn't have an integrated licp and it clears the plastic undertray.
So far I think the only 45 I will need is on the licp side. On the uicp I couldn't get it to fit right using anything but straigt couplings.
I also had to trim the bov tube on both sides to free it up a little and I had to cut about 1/2" off of the piece on the uicp that the bov tube connects to. I'm not sure why they made it so long. It was much easier to fit in place after that.
So far I think the only 45 I will need is on the licp side. On the uicp I couldn't get it to fit right using anything but straigt couplings.
I also had to trim the bov tube on both sides to free it up a little and I had to cut about 1/2" off of the piece on the uicp that the bov tube connects to. I'm not sure why they made it so long. It was much easier to fit in place after that.
Well, I will give it a try and see what I can do with what I have. I can resuse the silicone the came with the BR FMIC and my other upper IC pipe kit that I am taking off the car... I guess the AMS kit has silicone too to resuse if I replace it with this kit... Should be able to make something work with all that I have...... I suppose the 3" T-clamp will work on the TB side so I should have enough T-clamps.
Chris
Chris
I was about to paypal for this set but there is WAAAAY to much confusion on what parts are need to install these and how "CHEAP" it is to get them. I think I would be better off getting a kit that comes with all the parts as I dont think you guys have done a good enough job of providing information on this one guys.
No the reducer is 2.75 to 2.5". Trust me
I have a 3" to 2.5" reducer and the 3" side is WAY too loose on the t-body. I got a straight 2.5" coupling to work...it wasn't all that hard stretching it for the t-body. The t-body is a little under 2.75" while the uicp is 2.5"
The more I worked with it the more I've found out that all straight couplings have worked the best for me.
I have a 3" to 2.5" reducer and the 3" side is WAY too loose on the t-body. I got a straight 2.5" coupling to work...it wasn't all that hard stretching it for the t-body. The t-body is a little under 2.75" while the uicp is 2.5"
The more I worked with it the more I've found out that all straight couplings have worked the best for me.
The lower installed fine, but my upper had nothing but problems on my car, had fitment issues with battery and coolant elbow, almost had to buy a new battery just to get it to fit...ended up keeping the lower and selling the upper.
Originally Posted by broeli
No the reducer is 2.75 to 2.5". Trust me
I have a 3" to 2.5" reducer and the 3" side is WAY too loose on the t-body. I got a straight 2.5" coupling to work...it wasn't all that hard stretching it for the t-body. The t-body is a little under 2.75" while the uicp is 2.5"
The more I worked with it the more I've found out that all straight couplings have worked the best for me.
I have a 3" to 2.5" reducer and the 3" side is WAY too loose on the t-body. I got a straight 2.5" coupling to work...it wasn't all that hard stretching it for the t-body. The t-body is a little under 2.75" while the uicp is 2.5"
The more I worked with it the more I've found out that all straight couplings have worked the best for me.
No its not I sell this kit it is a 2.5 to 2.75" Transition connector. I have the whole kit in stock if you dont want to mess with ordering all the parts yourself 350 shipped have 2 with blue silicone in stock.
Thanks
Chris
Originally Posted by TalonRcR
No its not I sell this kit it is a 2.5 to 2.75" Transition connector. I have the whole kit in stock if you dont want to mess with ordering all the parts yourself 350 shipped have 2 with blue silicone in stock.
Thanks
Chris
Thanks
Chris
No the reducer is 2.75 to 2.5".
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