woofer?
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Originally Posted by Dookie
If you like Kicker, the CompVR series is good for SPL. Not good for SQ though. How much are you willing to spend? One or two of them? ported or sealed? Can go many different options...
I swear by JL audio after trying kicker orion fosgate JL in my car I wont touch anything But JL from now on. They hit hard they are crisp and clear and are awesome for SQ. Depending on your style and price range they have several options as well.
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Originally Posted by Sentinal
I swear by JL audio after trying kicker orion fosgate JL in my car I wont touch anything But JL from now on. They hit hard they are crisp and clear and are awesome for SQ. Depending on your style and price range they have several options as well.
other's were too soft and i don't think i can get those round solo's anymore... so JL it is? what kind of options are you talking about?
well for someone on a tight budget the W0's are their entry level sub then there are the W3's which are a little higher priced and made to run very efficient clean sound with moderate level of power then there is the W6 which is a little higher power and hits harder and is almost as clean as the W3 then finally the W7 which is their SPL sub which hits freakin insane hard but isn't as clear as the others but still better SQ than most SPL subs on the market. For me I went with the W3's because they were the cleanest sound but it takes all 3 of mine to keep up with 2 of the W6's or 1 of the W7's in terms of decible level.
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Originally Posted by Sentinal
well for someone on a tight budget the W0's are their entry level sub then there are the W3's which are a little higher priced and made to run very efficient clean sound with moderate level of power then there is the W6 which is a little higher power and hits harder and is almost as clean as the W3 then finally the W7 which is their SPL sub which hits freakin insane hard but isn't as clear as the others but still better SQ than most SPL subs on the market. For me I went with the W3's because they were the cleanest sound but it takes all 3 of mine to keep up with 2 of the W6's or 1 of the W7's in terms of decible level.
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they are pretty much the same sub V2 just means dual voice coil so that you can wire them for different amounts of impedance depending on the number of them you have and the amplifier you are using... my setup I have 3 10" w3v2 set up so that the amp see's about 3 ohm of impedance the JL amp I have is designed to run off anywhere from 2-4 ohms with the same continuous output. The max RMS power rating on these subs is 250 watts a peice however if you feed them a clean signal they can handle a lot more than that. SK lancer is running 1500 watts to a single JL W3 I don't know if I would recomend running that much power but he hasn't blown it yet so that speaks highly of the sub. I run about 600 RMS watts to the 3 subs I have and it sounds great.
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Originally Posted by Sentinal
they are pretty much the same sub V2 just means dual voice coil so that you can wire them for different amounts of impedance depending on the number of them you have and the amplifier you are using... my setup I have 3 10" w3v2 set up so that the amp see's about 3 ohm of impedance the JL amp I have is designed to run off anywhere from 2-4 ohms with the same continuous output. The max RMS power rating on these subs is 250 watts a peice however if you feed them a clean signal they can handle a lot more than that. SK lancer is running 1500 watts to a single JL W3 I don't know if I would recomend running that much power but he hasn't blown it yet so that speaks highly of the sub. I run about 600 RMS watts to the 3 subs I have and it sounds great.
if your using W3's you wont need to be anywhere near 3000 watts... capacitors work like mini batteries and are basically a bandaid for systems with power problems. The way they work is they get charged and hold that charge until they are discharged. Having a cap in the system can help if your battery is unable to supply enough charge to the amps the cap will help supply some of that juice then recharge off your battery (caps charge and discharge extreamly quickly usually under 1 second). I run just a tad under 1000 watts RMS in my system and I don't need a cap at all I have even talked to professional published installers who have said they set up 3000 watt systems with no cap at all. So if your battery can handle the power your system draws then don't even bother with a cap if it can't then add a cap or consider a battery upgrade (which may require alternator upgrade)
2 ohm vs 4 ohm doesn't really make a difference what makes the difference is the setup you have which amplifiers you run how clean your deck signal is how good of RCA and other wires/connectors you use and the box you put the subs in all make a big difference 2 vs 4 isn't really a concern whatever your amp is set up for will be best to run.
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Originally Posted by Sentinal
if your using W3's you wont need to be anywhere near 3000 watts... capacitors work like mini batteries and are basically a bandaid for systems with power problems. The way they work is they get charged and hold that charge until they are discharged. Having a cap in the system can help if your battery is unable to supply enough charge to the amps the cap will help supply some of that juice then recharge off your battery (caps charge and discharge extreamly quickly usually under 1 second). I run just a tad under 1000 watts RMS in my system and I don't need a cap at all I have even talked to professional published installers who have said they set up 3000 watt systems with no cap at all. So if your battery can handle the power your system draws then don't even bother with a cap if it can't then add a cap or consider a battery upgrade (which may require alternator upgrade)


