MR is here. Pics and vid.
Evolving Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 275
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From: Ann Arbor, Michigan
guys, break in for a motor may not be necessary per the manufacturer, but it is recommended.
why?
simple, every part in the motor, especially the vavles/cams/pistons/rods are made to specific tolerances with nonuniformity between each part. to ensure proper and uniform wear, it's best to keep the engine at lower revs for about 1200 miles. the engine will provide better performance and have less problems in the long run.
in fact, brake rotors should be babied for the first several hundred miles to ensure uniform heating and to prevent warping of the rotors.
race motors or blue-printed motors are specifically built to have uniformity of all moving parts so a break in is not necessary... and the former have a short life to begin with, so longevity is not an issue.
breaking in the engine on a dyno usually requires a step wise process of reving and changing lubricants to ensure uniform wear.
that said, beautiful car. i'm going to pick one up in a yr or two.
why?
simple, every part in the motor, especially the vavles/cams/pistons/rods are made to specific tolerances with nonuniformity between each part. to ensure proper and uniform wear, it's best to keep the engine at lower revs for about 1200 miles. the engine will provide better performance and have less problems in the long run.
in fact, brake rotors should be babied for the first several hundred miles to ensure uniform heating and to prevent warping of the rotors.
race motors or blue-printed motors are specifically built to have uniformity of all moving parts so a break in is not necessary... and the former have a short life to begin with, so longevity is not an issue.
breaking in the engine on a dyno usually requires a step wise process of reving and changing lubricants to ensure uniform wear.
that said, beautiful car. i'm going to pick one up in a yr or two.
Originally Posted by pjork-master
guys, break in for a motor may not be necessary per the manufacturer, but it is recommended.
Furthermore, the notion about babying brake rotors is false. Certain types of brake pads will not seat completely until subjected to considerable heat (read: extreme braking event).
Originally Posted by Ted B
This is old school thought. Read this: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Furthermore, the notion about babying brake rotors is false. Certain types of brake pads will not seat completely until subjected to considerable heat (read: extreme braking event).
Furthermore, the notion about babying brake rotors is false. Certain types of brake pads will not seat completely until subjected to considerable heat (read: extreme braking event).
I do believe in breaking the car in easy the first 500miles, which I did and then after that, getting on boost should be fine. BUT hey it's your car... do whatever you want to it. I mean if you can afford to replace motors and trannies with your money...I ain't hating.BTW... the MR is sweet! Please take more pics of whatever parts you can that is oem on that car. It would be cool to "replace" some stuff on my car and still look "stock".
Just one example - My Seville STS was broken in this way and still gives a clean leakdown test after 217,000 miles, so I can't say that I have much need to 'replace motors'. But this concept is nothing new, I've known it for 20 years. Nevertheless, old wives' tales tend to persist. I just offered it as FYI for those who were interested.
Originally Posted by Ted B
Just one example - My Seville STS was broken in this way and still gives a clean leakdown test after 217,000 miles, so I can't say that I have much need to 'replace motors'. But this concept is nothing new, I've known it for 20 years. Nevertheless, old wives' tales tend to persist. I just offered it as FYI for those who were interested.
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