I have decided to paint my car myself. Ive done prep work before, and yes, I know it is not easy work. No, I do not want to have someone else do it, and yes, I have a car to practice on before I hit the Evo. If I mess it up, I'll re-do it until it comes out like I want it.


I really need some positive information and support....what type of gun to buy, where to get paint....what supplies I should use....any info would be appreciated.

 

ill be the first to say not to do it...you seem determined, but IMO ruining your evo isnt worth it....to properly paint a car you need lots of expensive equipment, lots of prep-time and a ventilated painting booth...otherwise you are going to end up with lots of junk in your paint and imperfections....

just my opinion though...ive dealth with this stuff in the past...just pay a pro do to it

EDIT: i say all that assuming you do not have access to a booth and equipment...a lot of times you can rent a booth out...the painting process isnt that difficult...its having the proper resources that really count

 

i wrote this a little while ago, its posted at http://performancesport.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=616

I have run you all through the proper methods of washing and waxing your cars. I hope you have put some of my tips to use, and please for the sake of your car, continue from here on out. Now I want to talk to you about how to deal with other paint imperfections. I’m talking about scratches, both deep and minor. Nothing can be more frustrating or aggravating than walking out from your local grocery store and finding that some incompetent idiot flung their door open onto your nicely waxed baby. Seeing those deep scars across your paint makes your heart sink, and leaves a pit in your stomach. Well…no worries. In the next couple of paragraphs I will tell you how to rid yourself of those hideous gouges.

First off you will need some supplies. Believe it or not, Kragens is your best bet for supplies. I prefer the Dupli-color brand ( http://www.duplicolor.com/ ) products for several reasons. First off, they are easy to get a hold of, they are relatively cheap, and they have a wide variety of colors to choose from. They also have a great kit that comes with what you are going to need. Included in this kit is primer, sandpaper, clear coat, and rubbing compound. In addition to this you will need paint. Now make sure you get the right paint. If in doubt about which one you will need, go to your local dealership and ask the guy behind the parts counter which paint code your particular vehicle has. He will have to run the VIN code to get the right information. If you have an aftermarket paint job, it is crucial that you get the EXACT paint, there are so many out there, make sure you get the right stuff! In addition I recommend getting an assorted packet of sandpaper. Get a combination pack if you can, you will want 1500 grit, 2000 grit, and 2400-2500 grit sand paper; you will want to pick up a container of rubbing compound as well, 3M is a good brand, and it will be nice to have more than just the little packet that comes in the kit.

So in list form:
Dupli-color touch up kit
Multiple ultra fine pieces of sandpaper
Proper touch up paint
Rubbing compound
An old cotton t-shirt

Until you’re done with this process it WILL look like you have damaged your paint even more than it was prior. That is totally normal, and I just ask that you trust me. I have done it more than once on my car, and on several buddies’ cars also. It will work, I guarantee it, but it will take some time and elbow grease. If you are willing to put in the work, then don’t get discouraged and get to work. But just so you know, it will have to get worse before it gets better!

Lets get started

Time to diagnose your scratch. Take a close look at it. Is it a deep gouge that goes down to bare metal, or is it just simply a scratch in the paint. If its not too deep, if its only in the paint, that is, you can see primer below it, you will only need to touch up with some paint. If it’s down to bare metal, you will need to use primer too! You will know when it’s to bare metal, believe me!

First off you will need to properly clean the area. I’m talking a total clean of the area. You need to get all of the wax and contaminants off the area. Use alcohol if you can, and no not from your beer bottle in hand. Clean it real well and let it dry.

If you need to prime the area first, pull out the tube of primer. The directions tell you to use a razor blade or squeegee. I prefer to use my finger, it’s easier to guide and it can’t hurt your paint like a razor blade can. You don’t need to fill in the gouge, remember paint too takes up space, and instead just make sure there is a layer of the substance. Let it dry for 30 minutes or so before sanding. To properly sand it pull out some 1500 grit sandpaper. Now it’s vitally important that each and every time you sand your paint, that it’s a WET sand. Wet sanding is exactly as it sounds, make sure your sandpaper is wet, and even more be sure that you have a hose saturating the area as you are sanding. The water is used as a lubricant so you don’t harm your paint. Sand the area gently, making sure to continually keep the area wet! Once its smooth, let the area dry. It will look a lot worse than it did before you started, but that’s ok; just trust me.

Next step is paint. Depending on the size of the damage will determine how to properly apply the paint. If you’re using the Dupli-color applicators you will have a choice of using either the brush or a pen tip applicator. If it’s a fine scratch, by all means use the pen tip, it’s easier to use. But if you are fixing a chip or are stuck using a different brand of paint (I use Dodge touch up paint, and its only a brush) that is all right. Just apply it smoothly and gingerly as possible. You don’t want a massive amount of paint on the spot, just enough to fill in the gash. Let that dry over night.

The next step is sanding again. Start with the 1500 grit, and remember kiddies this needs to be wet sand. Then sand with the 2000 grit immediately after, and I know I don’t need to tell you to make sure and use water again with that. Dry the area, and pull out your bottle of rubbing compound. Rubbing compound is like liquid sandpaper used to hide the scratches left by the 2000 grit sandpaper. Apply the compound with your old t-shirt. Wipe it on generously in a circular motion. Let it dry for a minute or so, then vigorously rub it off in a circular motion. If still looks scratched apply more of the rubbing compound.

Once more, pull out the alcohol and clean the area once more. Let it dry, and your ready to put on a coat of clear coat. If your paint does not have a clear coat, then skip this paragraph. Apply the clear coat just as you did the paint, and let it dry for 12-24 hours. Then sand away again, starting with the 1500 grit, then the 2000, and then the 2500 grit. Make sure you use a lot of water while you do this. Pull out the rubbing compound again, and go over the spot once or twice more.

Now that the scratch is filled and smoothed, its time to put a nice coat of wax on the entire car. It is time to put a good solid coat of wax on the vehicle. Pay special attention to the freshly painted area, it needs special treatment. Be sure to put a couple of coats of wax on it, in order to properly assure a nice finish.

In a week or so inspect the area that once contained your scratch. If its hazed or discolored, apply one or 2 more coats of rubbing compound and another coat or 2 of wax to the area. This way it evens everything out.

 

that is a touch up guide. but honestly. it goes much the same way. your touching up the entire car, instead of a little spot, but same difference.

make sure you buy a GOOD gun, there is a reason why one gun will cost you $50 and one will run you $500. just think about it! and there is a reason a good paint job will run you upwards of $3500!!!!!

 

What U forgot to mention is that the car needs paint anyways....Im not going to paint it just for the hell of it....but yes, I understand the implications. Thanks for the tips, so far. I plan on spending around 500 on a gun and already have the air equipment for years now.

 

i meant what I forgot to mention....sorry, hahaha

 

where do u live?

 

then prep it, tape it, and get going!!!

 

n1te, I live in New Jersey. Why, you interested in helping? Hahah, just kidding bro.

 

might be interested in your services :P

 

In my services? Hey man, Im just learning as it is now! If you're teaching, Im down....but you'll have to give me some time.

 

my best suggestion, don't skimp on sanding time. nothing looks sorse then when you have little swirls from when you sanded., also practice on garbage items such as pipes, and old metal tables, so you get used to the gun, the way it sprays, and the weight and feel of the gun @ different angles. i used to paint metal office furniture w/ an electrostatic paint gun a long time ago, much different than cars though.

 

be careful of drips! lol