ziggy_juju

I posted earlier in the suggestions section wondering why there was not a Painting Section where members could post questions and/or get info about painting. Blonde recommended I start a thread and see what happens, and this is it. If you have a paint related question feel free to fire away. I am an I-CAR cert painter of over 11 yrs experience. Also any other painters out there feel free to join in and put your .02 in at any time. Feel free to PM me with your questions, and I will get back to you as soon as I can. If your questions are of a simple nature and possibly would be useful to EvoM members here, IE diy lil jobs(like engine accents or door handles or anything of that nature), post them up so others can use the info. Thanks for your time.


Josh

xmaciek82x

iTrader: (14)

Ok, me first

I recently got my wing keyed. What are my options besides respraying the clear? The scratch is beep, but so is the clear on the "CF". Any advise?

akunochi

iTrader: (19)

I would recommend lightly sanding and a high speed buffer w scratch compund. However it will all depend on the clear the factory used. You may be better off repsraying the wing with a better clear. I know Dupont makes a new clear that is kinda expensive, but you can literally scratch it with a nail and watch the scratch disappear. Chromomax I believe.





Now my question. I have a painter that is amazing ( murals, theme bikes etc.) He wants to paint my evo. I am looking for opinions on a brandywine, wingless with ghost flames.

Here is the color.

ziggy_juju

Ok here is the quick and simple way to tell if the scratch is "to deep" to be color sanded and rubbed out. Drag your fingernail across it and if your nail gets caught in the scratch it is going to need to be re sprayed. Now if it does indeed to be resprayed take it to a local body shop and they can respray clear over your carbon fiber and make it looks good as new. Your prolly saying well if you sand it i will see sandscratches in my CF wing??? Not true my friend. All they will do if feather out the scratches in your wing then finish it out in a fine fine grit(600 grit or so) then reclear it. Blammo good as new. Hope this helps, later


Josh

ziggy_juju

AHHH ghost flames my personal favorite and i am quite good at them. Good color choice will look excellent in the sun. I too am pretty good at airbrushing, but ghosting flames on a car doesnt really require an airbrush since your pallet is so big, ie the size of a car. My avatar is my helmet i did myself free handed with an airbrush, i need to post some bigger pics of it soon. But that color will look great outdoors, and the flames will POP in the right light. As far as clear choices, i prefer the Euro lines like Sikkens and Spies-Hecker, but the domestic brands, Dupont, BASF, R&M, PPG, House of Kolor are all good too. Every paint line has a higher end line as well as a budget line too. And usually a production painted car from the factory usually only has 2-4 mils thick of clear, doesnt sound like much but it does the job. On your custom ride with the ghosting, go ahead and request a few extra coats of clear. Now after he shoots it and clears it, have him BUFF IT FLAT, then retape it up and throw on 2 to 3 more coats of clear. This will hide the paint line from your ghost flames and make it look like GLASS. You can not do 5 to 6 coats all at the same time as you will have what is called Solvent Popping. WIll look like lil bubbles in your finish. Good choice on color and scheme GOOD LUCK and POST SOME PICS when its done. Later

Josh

akunochi

iTrader: (19)

Yeah this guy is a pro. His name is Jamal Scott. He just finished a Scarface theme Caddy but used the owner as scarface on the hood. He is going to paint my car for a straight trade for me putting the head back on a Ford 351. He is truly an amazing painter.

sayanara

iTrader: (1)

I have an 03 tarmac black evo. Having had for over 2 years the paint is definitely not that great anymore. swirls and scratches are still pronounced even after a good wax job. I'd like to get it repainted, but a different black, any recommendations on which black. I thought lamborghini black, but after seeing a gallardo up close it wasn't really what I was looking for. Something rich and deep.

Tristar

iTrader: (7)

Ams's old shop car was sprayed in brandywine. It looked great. Personally its one of my favorite colors.

ziggy_juju

Well as many a painter will tell you, BLACK IS BLACK, but what you are looking for is not really so much the color per say as much as it is the clear. Look at the previous post about the ghost flames and if the same clear tech was used on any color black you like, it would have that mirror glass finish look to it. Deep and rich. Its a very simple tech as it is only clearing the car TWICE (3 coats each time). After the first 3 coats COMPLETELY CURE and has been buffed COMPLETELY FLAT, then you reclear it again with 3 good wet coats. Let that completely flash or cure, then repeat the buffing process. VIOLA rich and deep. Also whomever is waxing your car is not using the proper materials if you are still seeing swirls and scratches. You need a very very fine applicator for your wax when dealing with black. OR whomever buffed it didnt fully get the swirls out. Hand polishing with a quartered black 3m polish pad is my trick for black. Using 3m glaze or polish and a 3m black polish pad with just a very so slight amount of water on it(just dampen it) then hand polish it. Let the polish kinda haze over then with a very fine polish towel. go counter clockwise to remove the polish and it looks like glass. As far as your black color go to a paint store (in the yellow pages) and then go look through all the blacks with all the diff manufactures and pick out your favorite. I really can not recommend a certain black cause i am sure we have diff tastes. But with the clear coat process i outlined i bet you would not care what color black it is. Good luck

Josh

sayanara

iTrader: (1)

cool, thanks.

akunochi

iTrader: (19)

Also you may be looking for a finish on the black. I have a friend with a HAYABUSA that is done in a Shimmering Pearl Black from HOK with a color shift dust mixed into the clear. It is truly amazing. When using black make sure you use a good paint along with a great clear as mentioned above.

Also for swirls I recommend a quarterly clay barring. I wash, prep/cleaner wax, clay bar, wash wax, detail. A truly amazing finish

locam

iTrader: (3)

This is a great thread!! Thanks for the idea, and the effort to get it going.

Now for my question:


I have several rock chips that have shown up in unusual places, i.e on my roof, and trunk lid. I guess from flying rocks that bounce on my car. What is the best way to cover those up so that you dont see them anymore? I know that you can get the tubes of paint and fill in chips, but you still see where the paint was taken out. If I wanted to make it as though it never happened, and you could never tell there was a chip does that mean that I have to respray the entire roof?

caelin~

akunochi

iTrader: (19)

Depends really. It depends on how deep the chip is. If it is not to the metal, then you should be able to work on it. I would personally use some filler primer the spot sand then re-spray that section. That would be the "Right" way to do it. Now I'm sure you can get away with some touch up paint and then "Burn" it in. However, you may not attain the finish you are looking for. If you can find a painter outside a body shop, like a guy that does it on the side and provide your own paint. (Not expensive check carquest) Then I would guess to get your roof resprayed would be between 50-100 in labor if that.

ziggy_juju

Pesky rock chips, unfortunately to get the desired look you are asking for it would have to be resprayed. As Akunochi said, you can "burn it in" but the chips would still need to be sanded out and primed then resprayed. The burning in thing he is talking about can be viewed two diff ways. To keep from spraying the quarters when painting a roof, we can burn in the pillars with a hot thinner, then polish it and it looks like it was all painted. What is really going on is pretty simple, just like it sounds, we use a hot thinner to make the old finish on the quarters MELT into the new finish we just sprayed. This is not a total hack way of doing things, but to get the professional way, just go ahead and pay the extra blend time to the quarters. You did meantion a "tube" but it is NOT PAINT, its filler puddy. which you then have to sand flat with a block then paint over. The side job Akunochi recommended is a good idea. I would shoot a roof and quarters for a couple hundred in labor, prolly 250 due to the chip removal, and then your looking at another prolly 200 to 300 in materials, which would be 500 to 550 to repair it all. Not a bad price compared to what a body shop will tell you. And most painters work on the side, but some shops do not like you to go in there and solicate work to their guys. Wait till they get off work and go up and ask if they would be willing to do some side work. Most will say yes if they are not too busy. Hope this helps and good luck.

Josh

Boltz.

iTrader: (42)

Just for a little input, I would reccomend people stay away from HOK paint.

The only problem with it is that its not re-coatable. If you get chips (and you will with candy over time) and you want to fix the panel, it needs to be entirely repainted and cannot be spot treated by blending and re-clearing. The paint needs to be taken off and reapplied.

There are other options for candy, and there are plenty of options for regular pastel colors and colors with pearl.

Just something I've learned...