Anyone here really good with a buffer? I bought a nice Makita buffer for Christmas and have used it a few times... the only thing is that it tends to leave swirl marks.. i'm not using compound though.. the finishes I have used it on weren't extremely dull so I thought just using some cleaner wax might be less abrasive. Is there something I should be putting on afterward like a swirl remover or am I buffing it wrong? I only have 2 pads that came with the buffer.. one is wool and one is a blended polishing pad.. maybe I should have others? lol a lot of questions I know, but it's getting around to summer time so you know how it is.

 

I used to work in a detail shop, I have lots of buffer experience! My favorite pads were always the 3M waffle foam type. I only used wool to cut heavy oxidation or for scratch removal. Wool cuts very fast and leaves a heavy swirl, again I would only use 3M wool pads. My favorite compound was Meguiars Professional Diamond Cut(1800 rpm), and I always had good results when I followed this up with 3M swirl remover with a gray 3M waffle pad(1200 rpm). Avoid cleaner waxes/etc they are loaded with silicone which hides swirls, but does not remove them.

Ross

 

sounds like good advice.. I worked in a detail shop when I was younger, but we used to use the BC1 and BC2 stuff... we never did serious cutting or anything though, it was basically all new paint finishes.. we did have to use compounds on boats a lot, but I know it's a different thing from car finishes.

 

i have a tarmac black car and let me tell you about swirls. DONT USE THE WOOL PAD!! THAT IS FOR CUTTING THE PAINT AND WILL LEAVE SWIRLS!!

a best friend of mine is a professional detailer and i am his test subject when it comes to trying new products. we have found several products that work well with my color. while 3m has great products, there are several that are just as good for a little less money.

you dont mention what color your car is, im assuming it is a dark color. what i use are products from a company called 3d products.


i use this for the polishing and swirl removal first..i will use a "finish detail pad" typically a black pad at 80-90ppi. this is what helps aleviate swirl marks.
http://www.3dproducts.com/index.asp?...PROD&ProdID=86

then i will go over it by hand with a Best Supreme teflon sealant and carnuba wax as the final layer. it really shows the pearl in the paint. also use microfiber towels to remove the wax. if those are not available, use 100% cotton baby diapers. they still work well.


i use this as a "final inspection" for any thing else left on the car. also helps with static
http://www.3dproducts.com/index.asp?...PROD&ProdID=70

hope this was helpful..

 

^^ Awesome man.. thanks for the input!

 

Couple other things I forgot, watch out for edges, very easy to burn the paint off them, and the evo has plenty.

Use masking tape on all your trim, door handles, etc so you dont risk burning them.

Do this on cool paint, in the shade, or indoors under good(flourescent)light works best.

Think about using clay first before you buff. If your paint has a lot of grit on it you can feel, then it will be worthwhile.

Buff horizontally on the sides of the car, not vertically! Buff the top surfaces front to back.

It has been a few years I may remember some other stuff but that should get you started.

Ross

 

How about on new paint? My friend just painted his truck and I may have to help him with that as well.. there's a lot of orange peel so I know it will have to be wet sanded... but how about pads and such for that? Or just go with what you already suggested?

 

He is right, I am a professinoal detailer and 3m makes good equipment! Get the #5996 foam buffing polish from 3m. If you use it right you wont leave swirles!

 

These guys are right on the money!

 

Again I would go with the foam 3m waffle pads, use the beige one for compounding and the grey one for polishing/swirl removal. It is new paint so it still needs to "breathe" do not use any silicone products pick some that are "body-shop safe"

Just be careful wetsanding, do not use your fingertips! Use the palm of your hand. Hopefully your friend has done this before, it is easy to sand through the clear or through an edge.

Ross

 

I have done some wet sanding and buffing of new paint. First off what type of paint is it. If a clear coat you will not be able to remove the orange peal as it is inside the paint, under the clear. If it is enamel then it is pretty easy to sand and buff, but you can burn through easy also. I personally think that wet sanding and buffing should be left to the pros. (Oh if it is lacquer..then strip it all off and repaint)