Spider Web swirls in direct sunlight ...
May 16, 2007, 10:37 AM
#16
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Haha, this thread reminds me of a friends TB Evo I did. The problem is not so much the color. More that Mitsu paint is really soft. Almost like Honda paint. You need to be very careful when washing, always use the 2 bucket method.
To do it properly you really need to do this in a 2-3 step method. As Mitchubishi will tell you, dark colors really need a couple of step process to get it right. If you use something too aggressive the paint will have a haze. So you use the aggressive step first. Then step down to a lighter, finishing polish. Then finally a wax of choice. The best thing for newbies is to find a local automotive paint store. Most of them carry the Meguiars line. While not the most ideal line of procucts, they are well made, and very good for beginners.
Meguiar's #83, followed by Meguiar's #80 followed by their Carnauba wax is a good combo you can find local. If you want to PM me, I can give you some links and some more user friendly products that make for a better finish. And BTW, you really need to look into a machine polisher, lean more towards to dual action. Usually from a company called porter cable, otherwise known as a PC...
Check out the following links my friend, and your detailing questions will be answered. This is where I learned everything I know.
http://guidetodetailing.com/articles.php?articleId=47
http://guidetodetailing.com/
http://autopia.org
#83 with a cutting pad and a PC...
Here is
To do it properly you really need to do this in a 2-3 step method. As Mitchubishi will tell you, dark colors really need a couple of step process to get it right. If you use something too aggressive the paint will have a haze. So you use the aggressive step first. Then step down to a lighter, finishing polish. Then finally a wax of choice. The best thing for newbies is to find a local automotive paint store. Most of them carry the Meguiars line. While not the most ideal line of procucts, they are well made, and very good for beginners.
Meguiar's #83, followed by Meguiar's #80 followed by their Carnauba wax is a good combo you can find local. If you want to PM me, I can give you some links and some more user friendly products that make for a better finish. And BTW, you really need to look into a machine polisher, lean more towards to dual action. Usually from a company called porter cable, otherwise known as a PC...
Check out the following links my friend, and your detailing questions will be answered. This is where I learned everything I know.
http://guidetodetailing.com/articles.php?articleId=47
http://guidetodetailing.com/
http://autopia.org
#83 with a cutting pad and a PC...
Here is
Last edited by O3EVO; May 16, 2007 at 10:40 AM.
May 16, 2007, 11:23 AM
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Haha, this thread reminds me of a friends TB Evo I did. The problem is not so much the color. More that Mitsu paint is really soft. Almost like Honda paint. You need to be very careful when washing, always use the 2 bucket method.
To do it properly you really need to do this in a 2-3 step method. As Mitchubishi will tell you, dark colors really need a couple of step process to get it right. If you use something too aggressive the paint will have a haze. So you use the aggressive step first. Then step down to a lighter, finishing polish. Then finally a wax of choice. The best thing for newbies is to find a local automotive paint store. Most of them carry the Meguiars line. While not the most ideal line of procucts, they are well made, and very good for beginners.
Meguiar's #83, followed by Meguiar's #80 followed by their Carnauba wax is a good combo you can find local. If you want to PM me, I can give you some links and some more user friendly products that make for a better finish. And BTW, you really need to look into a machine polisher, lean more towards to dual action. Usually from a company called porter cable, otherwise known as a PC...
Check out the following links my friend, and your detailing questions will be answered. This is where I learned everything I know.
http://guidetodetailing.com/articles.php?articleId=47
http://guidetodetailing.com/
http://autopia.org
#83 with a cutting pad and a PC...
Here is
To do it properly you really need to do this in a 2-3 step method. As Mitchubishi will tell you, dark colors really need a couple of step process to get it right. If you use something too aggressive the paint will have a haze. So you use the aggressive step first. Then step down to a lighter, finishing polish. Then finally a wax of choice. The best thing for newbies is to find a local automotive paint store. Most of them carry the Meguiars line. While not the most ideal line of procucts, they are well made, and very good for beginners.
Meguiar's #83, followed by Meguiar's #80 followed by their Carnauba wax is a good combo you can find local. If you want to PM me, I can give you some links and some more user friendly products that make for a better finish. And BTW, you really need to look into a machine polisher, lean more towards to dual action. Usually from a company called porter cable, otherwise known as a PC...
Check out the following links my friend, and your detailing questions will be answered. This is where I learned everything I know.
http://guidetodetailing.com/articles.php?articleId=47
http://guidetodetailing.com/
http://autopia.org
#83 with a cutting pad and a PC...
Here is
Thats simply amazing... I currently do use the PC and like i said the one guy said to use some type of glaze on it... What should the process be.... glaze polish wax ? and also what pads to use with each and how many coats ??
May 16, 2007, 02:42 PM
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That's how it removes the swirls I guess...
(Thanks to http://sonus-usa.com/ for this chart)
You first need to do what many call "compounding". Using a heavier "compound" to remove the swirls. This leaves what is called "hazing". The compund isn't able break down fully and leaves little marks. These "hazing" marks are easily removed by a finishing polish. Then you throw a couple of coats of wax on 24 hours apart. And reapply atleast every 3 months to insure protecion year around.
Glazing would be considered the polishing steps if that's the term you are comfortable with...
Last edited by O3EVO; May 16, 2007 at 02:56 PM.
May 16, 2007, 03:04 PM
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If you don't want so many swirls on the car, only hand wash & dry the car.
You need a POLISH any polish to remove them, if the paint is really bad, then you need a paint cleaner.
Meguires makes some good products, & they can do just about anything to any kind of paint.
If you inexperienced, get a Porter Cable D/A with some good pads, & your favorite polish, maybe a glaze & then some wax/sealent. No matter what you do, if you want all the swirls out, you need a machine & polish, nothing else will remove them, just hide them.
Yes, the Mitsubishi paint is soft, so be careful. Use the least aggressive pad & polish first.
May 16, 2007, 03:12 PM
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A paint cleaner is not going to make a dent. You need an aggressive paint polish (compound) to remove them. A paint cleaner is more of a chemical cleaner. For removing minor contaminents, but more towards oxidation removal.
And let's not scare the guy. You won't be able to damage the paint with a PC. If you wanted to bad enough you can, but youwould take the better part of a day to do that...
And let's not scare the guy. You won't be able to damage the paint with a PC. If you wanted to bad enough you can, but youwould take the better part of a day to do that...
Last edited by O3EVO; May 16, 2007 at 03:17 PM.
May 16, 2007, 03:24 PM
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A paint cleaner is not going to make a dent. You need an aggressive paint polish (compound) to remove them. A paint cleaner is more of a chemical cleaner. For removing minor contaminents, but more towards oxidation removal.
And let's not scare the guy. You won't be able to damage the paint with a PC. If you wanted to bad enough you can, but youwould take the better part of a day to do that...
And let's not scare the guy. You won't be able to damage the paint with a PC. If you wanted to bad enough you can, but youwould take the better part of a day to do that...
abrasive media.
wash, remove dirt.
clay, to remove imbedded contaminates form the paint
clean/compound, to remove deep scratches & correct paint defects
polish, to brighten up the paint & remove any marks from the cleaner
glaze, adds oil & fillers, brings out some gloss & hides things that can't be taken out.
wax protects the paint, & the work you just did.
yes, you can damage paint with a PC. If you use a heavy cut compound, the PC can not break down the abrasives & it will put in more scratches then it takes out. There really are very few cleaners that are OK for PC use most you need a rotary.
A heavy polish with a PC will remove most spider marks & light swirls, but will not remove real scratches, just the surface stuff.
I took a few Pro level classes on this stuff, & do high end details part time.
May 16, 2007, 03:30 PM
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Meguires is what you need.
Go to pep boys and buy yourself some cleaner wax...It's in a red bottle says meguires on it. Cleaner wax then use Mother's Reflections after the cleaner wax. If your surface is still alittle bumpy, rough to the touch...buy the clay bar.
If you have a polisher, buffer, some masking tape....
Use a foam pad to polish, wool pad for cutting and removing scratches and marks. If you can get it out with a foam pad it's better and less aggressive on your paint which will allow it to last longer, hopefully the life of the car.
3M also sell a 3 step that is top notch and for the serious enthusiast..
Go to pep boys and buy yourself some cleaner wax...It's in a red bottle says meguires on it. Cleaner wax then use Mother's Reflections after the cleaner wax. If your surface is still alittle bumpy, rough to the touch...buy the clay bar.
If you have a polisher, buffer, some masking tape....
Use a foam pad to polish, wool pad for cutting and removing scratches and marks. If you can get it out with a foam pad it's better and less aggressive on your paint which will allow it to last longer, hopefully the life of the car.
3M also sell a 3 step that is top notch and for the serious enthusiast..