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Low Speed Popping - Check Your Power Steering Lines!

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Old Sep 7, 2016, 06:39 AM
  #121  
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glad it helped!
Old Apr 25, 2017, 07:23 AM
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im bumping this - so after I corrected the spacing between the steering line and the FSB, I no longer get the random popping noise while driving - however, I DO still get an audible & tangible pop at extreme angles of the wheel while autocrossing.

I'm thinking the line is essentially just bent out of shape - this has been happening for a while and it doesn't really bother me, but I'm doing a bit of "spring cleaning" on the evo and this was one of the things on the list.

Thinking about replacing the line with this: http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...h_m_evo6_9.htm

but it doesn't seem to be the "entire" line? Compared to the OEM bit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2006-MI...NYYyTy&vxp=mtr

Any input on this?
Old Jun 25, 2017, 02:27 AM
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Kyoo,

Thanks for posting your findings. I too am chasing the annoying popping noise. I have briefly looked at a few things but I'm going to focus on the power steering lines for now. So far I haven't noticed anything loose other than the one hard line that goes directly under the transfer case seemed to be really close to the subframe. I believe it was touching. I moved it some just to ensure some clearance.

The first drive after that seemed the same but now after the car had sat for a few days the popping noise became worse.

Did you ever order that line from STM? It seems to be the one that goes to the power steering rack
Old Jun 25, 2017, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by kyoo
well, had the shop realign the subframe, redo the alignment, loosen and tighten the bolts on the endlinks, and grease the fsb bushing - the popping noise is still as present as ever.

...
What's involved in a subframe re-alignment? Doesn't it just bolt into place?
Old Jun 25, 2017, 05:46 PM
  #125  
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i didn't order the lines, no - my noise is gone and i just want to leave it alone too much tinkering with the car lately.

I believe there's a small amount of give in the alignment of the subframe. it was just one thing i was trying to figure out re: the popping noise
Old Jun 25, 2017, 06:52 PM
  #126  
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I have my car on a lift right now, so I tried to poke around at those clamps and guides. They are pretty darn hard to reach. Does the subframe have to be removed to get at the PS rack attachment clamps?
Old Jun 25, 2017, 07:02 PM
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yes - u can see them from inside the engine bay, behind the engine if you get a flashlight - follow the line from the p/s reservoir and just make sure everything is attached.

alternatively u may be able to check it from the pass side wheel well after removing the wheel. finally, check "behind" the subframe - u should see both your front sway bar and your power steering line - make sure they have a gap between them
Old Jun 26, 2017, 08:16 AM
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My popping sound went away when ER built my trans last Sep (guess during reinstall they made sure everything was attached correctly). It's now back with a vengeance. Ugh. I'm gonna try and video it when it's acting up bad (some days there's no sound, other days it's loud af and I can pretty much feel it through my feet).
Old Jun 26, 2017, 08:19 AM
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those bolts need some soft thread locker or something
Old Jun 26, 2017, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by kyoo
those bolts need some soft thread locker or something
Yeah, only thing I can think of is the NVH is making them come loose. The sound is so loud that I almost feel like something ELSE is wrong, like bad bushings or something (everything looks and feels fine though).
Old Jun 26, 2017, 08:38 AM
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I completely understand. it was downright violent, the way the sound manifested. and so random. I could not believe it was the power steering line
Old Jun 26, 2017, 02:18 PM
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So last night I got under the car to look around in hopes of finding the cause of the knocking sound. What I found was the wire to the abs sensor on the passenger hub was not secured in the metal retaining clip. I secured it although I highly doubt that would cause that knock.

Then I started checking bolts and nuts. Started with the FSB passenger side end-link, that was tight. Then I tried the forward stabilizer bar (the one with 3 bolts) and come to find out that the bolt on the passenger side was loose. As I tried to tighten it I realized the stupid welded on nut plate is stripped out. So I removed it for now until I can remove the nutplate and figure out a fix for that.

Another thing I noticed is the power steering line that runs in front of the cam gear cover was actually rubbing on the cover. And since that line has some play I believe it was tapping on the cover at times. I zip-tied it to the a/c line just to keep it away from tapping anything. I don't think that could have been the cause either. But time will tell as it didn't make any noise today.
Old Jun 26, 2017, 08:05 PM
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keep us posted. most likely not the tapping on the cover thing, prob the lines
Old Jul 21, 2017, 07:44 AM
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So it's been a few weeks since I have messed with the car. Before I left on a trip the car was not knocking like it was before. I was able to rethread the nut plate and install the stabilizer bar. And so far so good. I do a faint knock occasionally but that could be suspension related.

I came across a post on one of the local U.K. Evo Facebook pages regarding this same knocking noise. Turns out that the struts can cause this as they tend to become "loose" internally. The fix has been to repackage then with grease?? I'm looking to replace my shock/spring combo soon so hopefully that should cure all bumpy noises... maybe lol
Old Jul 21, 2017, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by vmrevo9
...

I came across a post on one of the local U.K. Evo Facebook pages regarding this same knocking noise. Turns out that the struts can cause this as they tend to become "loose" internally. The fix has been to repackage then with grease?? I'm looking to replace my shock/spring combo soon so hopefully that should cure all bumpy noises... maybe lol
The bearing in the OEM top hats gets loose pretty quickly. Mine were loose after 60k miles of relatively nice roads. When they get loose, it can allow the upper spring cup to contact the top hat when the steering wheel is turned IIRC. Best solution is new top hats (they are only $65/each), but another solution is to put a washer between the bearing and the upper spring cup to prevent contact. If starting off with new top hats, better grease may help delay the onset.


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