spyderx

iTrader: (17)

Anyone had experience in changing this out at home?
My rear passenger side is making warping noise as the wheels turn and I'm thinking bad wheel bearing... 04 VIII w/ 135k miles.

I see some generic parts on the web but wondering if I should get a certain brand and just the bearing, a bearing w/ housing module...

Didn't check w/ the dealer yet on the Mitsu price... thx

WhiteHat

Just replaced both my rear bearings this past weekend with these: https://www.rockauto.com/?mfr=TIMKEN&partnum=512181 the bearing itself has the same identification number as the Moog bearing, the housing just looks more finished.

Had to rent a slide hammer and adapter to pull them off though. Once off, I had a buddy press off the old bearings and press the new ones on.

If you don't want to deal with the press then I'd recommend the OEM ones: http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...g_mr403968.htm

Good luck, it's a pretty easy change if you have access to a press

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

I went with Timken front bearing assemblies, and OEM rear bearing assemblies. I could not find the Timken ones as an assembly.

If you opt for assemblies, they are just bolt on. I recommend also getting new bolts with 135K street miles.

spyderx

iTrader: (17)

Thanks guys!

BTW, this press machine, can also be used for pressing in poly bushings for suspension too?
If so, maybe I should buy me a press for general use...

WhiteHat

That's correct, you could use it for a lot of things but it may require different jigs or dies. Most of the time you could just use scrap steel and cut to use.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

I installed Timkins all around on my car. I didn't realize it at the time when ordering but the fronts were an assembly and the rears required me to press out the old hub and reuse it. Not a big deal because I have a press but to those who do not OEM might be preferred.

And I saw that someone above commented on the usefulness of having a shop press. I bought one a few years ago to do some bushings on my car and its been amazingly useful. I went to HF and planned on getting the 20ton version but they didnt have one in stock so I ended up with the 12ton. Its not professional quality I'll admit that but its had enough ***** to press out anything that I've needed to be pressed out. I think I spent around $100 and use it all the tine. If you have the space get one.

spyderx

iTrader: (17)

Just got the rear Timkin bearings but missing the center ring - this is the inner ring w/ the gear groove. I guess now I do need to get me a press...

Otherwise, Timkin looks to be a quality piece... made in Japan.

spyderx

iTrader: (17)

Guys,
Do I need to pull out the rear ABS plug harness when pulling out the bearing assembly?
Seems like I don't...

thanks!

V.8MR

iTrader: (6)

you should not, no. Though be careful not to knock it or damage it in any way. Worst case I replaced both of my rear ones with ebay ones for dirt cheap. That was only because they were fused to the hub and I removed all the hubs from the car for a rebuild.

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

^This do not touch it or try to take it out as itll probably fall apart on you. If you cant get the thing out on the car unclip the plug and pull out the whole knuckle assembly with the sensor still bolted down.

Essentially its pop off wheel remove caliper and rotor, dissassemble the e-brake assembly zip off the axle nut, remove the 4 bolts on the backside that holds the bearing assembly and then pop off the wheel bearing assembly. The last part of what I mentioned is the only part that will fight you and may take some time and swearing and frustration before you get it off.

Im not sure if this is frowned upon but the way that I did it was when I loosened up the 4 bolts that hold on the bearing assembly I unscrewed them a little bit but kept them in. I then smacked the heads which pushed the thing outward a little bit just enough to break the seize and pull the whole thing out. You can try a slide hammer too but my bearing literally fell apart when I did that and left me with the inner portion still and then I had to remove the inner race of the bearing from the hub since I needed it given that I used the Timken ones.

Good luck and remember this time when you reinstall everything be liberal with the antiseize on everything; it makes a world of a difference the next time you have to replace them.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I love having a desert car. I removed my rear hubs by hand to put ARP studs in them. LOL

heel2toe

iTrader: (41)

Yeah yeah yeah showoff, lol!

Luckily for me at this point after working on the car for the past 8 years I've touched almost everything on my car that likes to rust away and everything that goes back on get's a metric f*ckton of antiseize.

My favorite was front LCA bolts seized to the sleeve of the bushing which backed off the nut inside the subframe. Yeah rust sucks.