Ohlin Coil Overs ???
Originally Posted by ImportUpgrade
JICs are a piece of crap. Do not even bother. I have heard and seen numerous accounts of horrible customer service and product quality from many people with different cars. JIC not only is NOT used in JGTC or any Pro-Japanese circuit, however OHLINS AND ZEAL are used. You do the math. Out of the box JIC is a POS, but changing the spring rates, doing little adjustments pretty much makes it a different product. The RRE Jics are good because they are track proven and adjusted. However I personally wouldnt even deal with JIC, #1 because they are crap IMHO. Ohlins you cannot go wrong. The fastest and most competitive drivers and cars use them. Ohlins is quality and their is no denying it. For race, go Ohlins. For daily driving/street/some race I would go Zeal. I personally met both RRE and WORKS and I can tell you right now WORKS is a bunch of great guys - and I DIDNT EVEN BUY ANYTHING FROM THEM! They answer all your questions and definately know their stuff. Their customer service & satisfaction is beyond your expectations from customers I encountered. They also match FACTORY WARRANTY... how cool is that. RRE puts out great race equipment and suspension but when I went there the staff was very unprofessional, rude, and well not a great experience. I won't even bother going into details about their attitude and lack of admitting they got beat by other evos. Its not a coincidence that Vishnu and Works and other companys firmly stand by the best made coilovers - Ohlins and Zeal.
I mean if you take the magazine's EVO CHALLENGES and see what companies came out on top, you can clearly see that just because a bunch of people rave out JICs from RRE are the best, that is not the ENTIRE truth. There are equally and better products out there - do your research and take a look.
I mean if you take the magazine's EVO CHALLENGES and see what companies came out on top, you can clearly see that just because a bunch of people rave out JICs from RRE are the best, that is not the ENTIRE truth. There are equally and better products out there - do your research and take a look.
then I will believe you.
I, for one, would still like to know about smogrunner's question. So how about it guys, suggestions for setting up the ohlins (or any coilover setup for that matter) when running a front diff?
I think he asked why they were worth so much and the HKS guy started trashing the best current system... I hate to se people buy overpriced overrated parts for any mods...and it really gets me sideways when they "appeal" to the JDM gods to prove their eqpensive slow stuff is superior cause it costs more and is shipped west to east across the pacific. Read the Timwe attack article in SCC the Skyline blew everyone away then the Japanese pro driver hopped into a big turbo JDM Uber EVO and lapped 2 seconds slower than a fat old white guy with less money in my car than the turbo kit on theirs....Buschur stage VI with RRE JIC's $6500.00 total in mods on the car at that point...(oh I was driving my car too, my hotshoe driver is usually better than 1 second faster than me)...
hmmm thats funny. I recall being at Willow Springs on wait... Friday? wasnt that 3 days ago? Hmmm and I happen to see many evos with the jic setup... I am not any way saying anything about HKS coilovers being superior... where did I say that... once again Robi you are twisting my words. Once AGAIN I MUST REITERATE, take any tuned JDM EVO bring it to the States or bring any USDM tuned evo and bring it to Japan then we will see that JDM tuened evos are superior. Do you read japanese? do you know whats going on in japan... probably not, until then you can play the "holier then thou" role, and REALIZE that their are OTHER OPTIONS then just JIC lol. Take a look in any option or lancer evo magazine from japan. Not only that, take a LOOK AT SUPER TAYIKU racing and see no one uses JIC.
robi, importupgrade/ what the ehll does both of your rants have to do with ohlins? Please take it somewhere else.
I would like to offer an answer to the suspension changes that a front diff makes, but I won't be able to figure that out until next year.
So do you guys have something constructive to say?
Robi, based upon your experiance with the LSD front diff, what (in your opinion) would we have to address the on power understeer coming out of a corner? What do you think would work for your driving style?
ImportUpgrade? What would those "superior JDM tuned EVOs" do to combat the differences that a front LSD offers. They have had a front LSD option for a bit longer than we have (like 10 years) so what do they do? (exact specifics please)
I would like to offer an answer to the suspension changes that a front diff makes, but I won't be able to figure that out until next year.
So do you guys have something constructive to say?
Robi, based upon your experiance with the LSD front diff, what (in your opinion) would we have to address the on power understeer coming out of a corner? What do you think would work for your driving style?
ImportUpgrade? What would those "superior JDM tuned EVOs" do to combat the differences that a front LSD offers. They have had a front LSD option for a bit longer than we have (like 10 years) so what do they do? (exact specifics please)
The WORKS/Ohlins Stage I-III (and WORKS/ZEALs) come in open front diff and RS (Mitsu limited-slip) versions. The Quaiffe front LSD has not been tested yet.
The Ohlins Group-N Gravel and Tarmac versions have NOT been tested by us in a front LSD application yet.
Just specify which front diff you're equipped with when contacting us.
As always, custom springs rates are available for all our coilover set-ups and the WORKS adjustable camber plates are now available for the stock struts!
www.worksevo.com
The Ohlins Group-N Gravel and Tarmac versions have NOT been tested by us in a front LSD application yet.
Just specify which front diff you're equipped with when contacting us.
As always, custom springs rates are available for all our coilover set-ups and the WORKS adjustable camber plates are now available for the stock struts!
www.worksevo.com
The power understeer is not even noticable in 90% or your corners. It's the 2nd gear coming on the boost high wheel angle corners which seem to cause the most noticable power-on understeer. If acts like the car is going to the outside and if your quick enough you think adding steering angle will help (it doesn't) the extra push felt at boost comming on is quickly offset by the extra grip the locked up and the car never really leaves the exit line you were on it just "feels" like it will. As far as set-up, I think the biggest diference will be that heavier spring rates all around will now pay bigger premiums and the right swaybar combo will need to be readdressed.
thanks Robi!
Sounds like the same problem I was having with the STI. When I was autox'ing a STI the biggest problem was timing the boost, apex and your line out of the corner. Get on the boost too early near the apex, and instant power on understeer.
I found that if you peddle the throttle a little, the STI could figure it out, but it also has throttle by wire, so I don't know if that had any effect (if any at all).
Sounds like the same problem I was having with the STI. When I was autox'ing a STI the biggest problem was timing the boost, apex and your line out of the corner. Get on the boost too early near the apex, and instant power on understeer.
I found that if you peddle the throttle a little, the STI could figure it out, but it also has throttle by wire, so I don't know if that had any effect (if any at all).
Originally Posted by EM@WORKS
The WORKS/Ohlins Stage I-III (and WORKS/ZEALs) come in open front diff and RS (Mitsu limited-slip) versions.
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