More Negative Camber For Free
More Negative Camber For Free
These Evo's are great! The factory has allowed us to do a simple ecentric bolt adjustment in the front end and gain an additional degree of negative camber. When I purchased my 05' Evo new each of the front wheels had .35 degree of negative camber and each of the rear wheels had .9 degree of negative camber. This simple adjustment gave me 1.25 degrees of negative camber in each of the front wheels.
Here is how to do it:
1) Jack up car and remove the front wheel/tire.
2) At the bottom of the strut you will see two sets of bolts/nuts that attach the bottom of the strut to the wheel hub. Both of the bolt/nut assemblies are 19 mm.
3) Loosen both bolt/nuts. Do not remove them.
4) The bolt part of the upper most of the two bolt/nut assemblies has an ecentric side. This bolt is clearly marked with a white mark on one side and a yellow mark 180 degrees on the other side.
5) You must pull the bolt far enough out by loosening the nut to be able to rotate it 180 degrees. This will engage an ecentric side of this bolt and will effectively push the strut inward. It is not a ramped ecentric bolt. In other words, it gives one level of adjustment not an incremental amount of adjustment.
6) Rotate the bolt 180 degrees and retighted both bolt/nut assemblies to 130 inch pounds of torque. Remount tires and wheels.
Here is how to do it:
1) Jack up car and remove the front wheel/tire.
2) At the bottom of the strut you will see two sets of bolts/nuts that attach the bottom of the strut to the wheel hub. Both of the bolt/nut assemblies are 19 mm.
3) Loosen both bolt/nuts. Do not remove them.
4) The bolt part of the upper most of the two bolt/nut assemblies has an ecentric side. This bolt is clearly marked with a white mark on one side and a yellow mark 180 degrees on the other side.
5) You must pull the bolt far enough out by loosening the nut to be able to rotate it 180 degrees. This will engage an ecentric side of this bolt and will effectively push the strut inward. It is not a ramped ecentric bolt. In other words, it gives one level of adjustment not an incremental amount of adjustment.
6) Rotate the bolt 180 degrees and retighted both bolt/nut assemblies to 130 inch pounds of torque. Remount tires and wheels.
make sure to get an alignment. changing the camber dramatically tweaks the toe settings into the tire killing zone.
for a more detailed explaination do a search. This has been discussed to death.
for a more detailed explaination do a search. This has been discussed to death.
Yea, I agree, ChrisW, except every subject on this forum has been previously discussed. Funny how people talk about the same thing over and over.
Anyway, I agree on your point about toe changes. Did not bother to check the front toe before the camber change, but after it was toed in 4/16" total. My home alignment machine (measuring tape) got me back to zero toe plus or minus 1/32" in less than 20 minutes.
Don't even need to jack the car up. Use tape measure on the front of the tire between the same tread block and measure the rear. Subtract the diff for toe in or toe out. 22 mm open end to lossen the bolt, a 13 mm to adjust the rod. Use the edge or flats on the rod to ensure both sides are adjusted the same. Took me three tries before I got it spot on, or within 1/32. Took almost one full revolution (about 270 degrees rotation on the rod) on both sides to get down from 4/16" total toe in. The steering wheel is dead centered.
Tomorrow I'm going to check the rear and shoot for 2/16' total toe in.
Anyway, I agree on your point about toe changes. Did not bother to check the front toe before the camber change, but after it was toed in 4/16" total. My home alignment machine (measuring tape) got me back to zero toe plus or minus 1/32" in less than 20 minutes.
Don't even need to jack the car up. Use tape measure on the front of the tire between the same tread block and measure the rear. Subtract the diff for toe in or toe out. 22 mm open end to lossen the bolt, a 13 mm to adjust the rod. Use the edge or flats on the rod to ensure both sides are adjusted the same. Took me three tries before I got it spot on, or within 1/32. Took almost one full revolution (about 270 degrees rotation on the rod) on both sides to get down from 4/16" total toe in. The steering wheel is dead centered.
Tomorrow I'm going to check the rear and shoot for 2/16' total toe in.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
EGbeater
Evo How Tos / Installations
27
Jan 16, 2016 04:14 PM
DangerousDan
04-06 Lancer Ralliart How To Requests / Questions / Tips
1
Aug 19, 2009 11:47 AM
WRC4ever
Evo Tires / Wheels / Brakes / Suspension
4
Jan 22, 2003 12:36 PM




