Ebrake light comes on/off during driving (Ebrake is down/disengaged)
Feb 1, 2005, 01:53 PM
#16
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Yeah you don't want to add more fluid, it's a closed system so adding more will result in an overflow once you replace the pads (i.e. push the pistons in fully).
Just replace those pads, I drove around until my brake light was almost solid 100% of the time. No harm done.
Just replace those pads, I drove around until my brake light was almost solid 100% of the time. No harm done.
Feb 1, 2005, 04:52 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by webguy330i
Yeah you don't want to add more fluid, it's a closed system so adding more will result in an overflow once you replace the pads (i.e. push the pistons in fully).
Just replace those pads, I drove around until my brake light was almost solid 100% of the time. No harm done.
Just replace those pads, I drove around until my brake light was almost solid 100% of the time. No harm done.
Feb 3, 2005, 10:27 AM
#19
so does anyone know for sure what it is if u say not to add fluid then its probly not the fluid so the only other thing im getting is the pads are going? let me know.... what should i look for when removing the pads to check them is it noticable if they need to be replaced?
Feb 3, 2005, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by mr0072003
Thanks weboy for the confirmation on that I just dont want to be talking out of my ***.
You have obviously never done a brake job and YES YOU ARE TALKING OUT OF YOUR ***
Feb 3, 2005, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Evoisdream
so does anyone know for sure what it is if u say not to add fluid then its probly not the fluid so the only other thing im getting is the pads are going? let me know.... what should i look for when removing the pads to check them is it noticable if they need to be replaced?
Just check em out, takes about 5 mins using the stock scissor jack to remove the wheel and inspect. Most likely it's your front pads and the backs probably still have 1/2 their life left.
Mar 16, 2005, 12:32 AM
#23
My brake light in the cluster is coming on during heavy+ breaking. I have also seen it come on during hard cornering with no breaking.
After seeing someone else (sorry I forgot your name) say that the light will come on during hard acceleration or braking, this became obvious. As that person said, the minimal amount of fluid gets displaced from the sensor and triggers the light during that time. The same would apply to hard cornering.
I've got 27k miles and haven't bleeded the brakes. My pads aren't too bad either. I would guess another 3-5 thousand miles left on them. I've checked the fluid, and it is indeed low.
btw...I'm in SoCal where it most definetly does not get as cold as some have described.
Just my opinion, but for those in the really cold climates, perhaps the brake fluid is thickening due to the colder weather. If it thickens, the volume of fluid would become less. Hence triggering the light, especially when first starting the engine and using the brakes shortly after.
Thanks again for the dude whose name I am forgetting.
edit: Except that 'dude' was bigjhoney who says he was on rotors. I don't know, maybe he had no pads or fluid???
After seeing someone else (sorry I forgot your name) say that the light will come on during hard acceleration or braking, this became obvious. As that person said, the minimal amount of fluid gets displaced from the sensor and triggers the light during that time. The same would apply to hard cornering.
I've got 27k miles and haven't bleeded the brakes. My pads aren't too bad either. I would guess another 3-5 thousand miles left on them. I've checked the fluid, and it is indeed low.
btw...I'm in SoCal where it most definetly does not get as cold as some have described.
Just my opinion, but for those in the really cold climates, perhaps the brake fluid is thickening due to the colder weather. If it thickens, the volume of fluid would become less. Hence triggering the light, especially when first starting the engine and using the brakes shortly after.
Thanks again for the dude whose name I am forgetting.
edit: Except that 'dude' was bigjhoney who says he was on rotors. I don't know, maybe he had no pads or fluid???
Last edited by salukidude; Mar 16, 2005 at 12:37 AM.
Mar 16, 2005, 05:14 AM
#24
oh crap... thanks for this very informative thread, i was driving really hard the other day and on a reduced gravity part (where i usually apply my brakes before the turn that is after the hill) the light came on as aps engaged, scared the crap outta me cuz afterwards i couldn't get it to do it and i thot i was halucinating.
Sep 29, 2009, 01:37 PM
#26
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When the brake light comes on you should check both the fluid level and the pads. If the pads are good then add some fluid. Done. If you find some thin looking pads pull them out for closer inspection. Sometimes they will be about worn through in a area you can't see when they are mounted.
Sep 29, 2009, 01:51 PM
#27
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Well there is an easy solution to this, brake light comes on, check your fluid, if its low, check the pads, if the pads are fine you could have a small leak somewhere allowing some light fluid leak under hard braking. if you cant find a leak and the pads look satisfactory, top the fluid back off.
Rob
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Dec 9, 2009, 09:51 PM
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Yeah so same thing happened to me...i live in missouri and flew out to colorado to pick up my evo 9 mr that i just bought with 33k miles on it and about 2 hours into the drive back to saint louis the brake light came on. The car was as bigjhoney said riding on the rotors. i had to get 4 new rotors and all new brake pads when i got back to saint louis.
Dec 9, 2009, 09:56 PM
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Had this same thing happen to a friend on his Evo. Always start with the basic (fluid level), he learned this after swapping new pads an paying a mechanic to "fill" his brake fluid. 
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