smack_evo

iTrader: (4)

i have done this same experiment at the track and the additional negative camber
far outweighs the exagerated toe-in as far as reducing understeer and helping tire wear
on the corners of the tires. though like stated earlier, not the optimal way to do things
but definately quicker around the track(validated on a lap timer).

also to the person looking for a compromise toe setting that would work for -3.5(track)
and -1.5(street), no chance. i just set all this up yesterday and at my ride height the toe
moved almost 3/8" total between those two settings.

and the problem is as you stand the wheel up for the street(less camber) the toe goes
farther out which makes the car wander terribly when you hit bumps in the road and more of a handful in general.

hope it helps,
sean

nils

iTrader: (56)

That is what I experienced. The severe negative camber must have out-weighed the toe-in cause the car felt so much better.

I think I might be willing to sacrifice the the street ride with exagerated toe-out so when I hit the track and adjust the camber there wont be too much toe-in.

hmmmm.. wish I could have the best of both worlds.

Scottybob

iTrader: (3)

You need to set the toe when you do this. .....

Thoe99

iTrader: (25)

Same here on the autocross.

bdiddy

iTrader: (3)

The toe-in moves dramatically on this car when you change the camber. The toe-in moves almost an inch when you go from zero camber to 2.5 negative. (the steering knuckle sits high on this car) So either change the camber and toe-in together, or pick a setting for street and track. I'm thinking 1 degree negative will work for both "ok", but if you really want the track settings (-2.5-3.0) you'll need to toe it back out to a neutral setting.

smack_evo

iTrader: (4)

i bet you would kill your tires in a month if you ran 1/2" of toe out not to mention
the car would just be annoying as hell to drive. for as much time as you spend on
the track compared to the street i would do it the other way around and get a good
street set up. then just bite the bullet at the track. you would probably scrub just as
much off the tires from understeer as you would from the extra toe in once you
added the neg. camber at the track. it won't turn in quite as nicely but still far better
choice in my opinion.

chrisw

iTrader: (2)

ummm sure. I killed my first set of advans in 6000 miles doing what you suggested.


It is just a really bad idea to change you camber at the track. There is no optimal comprimise between the track and the street unless your willing to do a full front end alignment in the paddock.

1/10 degree change in camber will affect the toe by almost 1/4" it's that severe, trust me, I am talking from hard learned experiance.

nils

iTrader: (56)

is it possible to change toe at the track with out sophisticated instruments? I have never messed with toe, I am assuming it is only a couple of bolts to adjust it...

I only drive my car about 10 minutes a day, short commute to work and back home, other than that I only drive to track and that is it.

Wondering if I should just give it aggresive alignment and run that all the time.

Think I will buy a temp gun too and see what the difference in temps are on the inside and outside of the tires next time out.

Scottybob

iTrader: (3)

A compromise toe setting is not going to be possible. A quick check with the tape measure while moving around the camber plates makes it obvious this will not work.

I'm going to go with -3.0 camber and my normal toe settings and see what it does in street driving. This will probably work for me since the car pretty much goes from home to track and back, with an occasional drive on nice days.

If you put a lot of road miles on the car: Its not that difficut to do your own alignment..... There are a few threads on here, and a number of very good books on suspension tuning.

nils

iTrader: (56)

This is what I am leaning towards as well.

thx to everyone for their help.....