OK...then I'll provide more info.

Evo MR, it's my daily driver. I don't track it, though I'd like to sometime. I do autocross, though. I'll be running in A Stock with sticky R compounds. I'm not terribly comfortable with oversteer on the street--wouldn't want much more than stock. My previous car was an understeering pig (STi).

 

Thanks. That gives me something to work with.

 

Does anyone have any experience with this settup? Or will anyone offer a projection as to how the car would handle with these specs:


-2.0 camber, L/R fronts, 0 toe
-1.0 camber, L/R rears, 0 toe

I assume that with these specs it will overstear like a RWD car?

Thanks,
Chris

 

Not at all. That sounds like a very reasonable setting. You should still get a decent amount of understeer, but not too bad. If you really want RWD style oversteer, you'll need a touch of toe-out in the rear.

BTW, most stock Evo suspensions won't let you get a full 2 degrees of negative camber up front. Mine maxed out at only -1.8 degrees, but I'm sure there's some car-to-car variation.

Emre

 

I ran -1.8/-1.0 with 0 toe for most of last year, along with a 25mm rear sway bar set to the middle of three positions. The car was very neutral - just a bit of understeer present, but much less than stock. I also had Tanabe springs on the car for most of the year. Before the last DE I put on a set of RRE JIC's and went to -2.5/-1.0 with 0 toe and that dialed out some more of the understeer. I have some new specs I'll be trying out this year though.

For context I guess I should add this was for Solo2 and DE's at Putnam Park, Mid Ohio, and Nelson Ledges, and this year I will be a "B" group driver.

 

BBY AutoX

Another part of the alignment equation is whether you have springs or not. If you have lowering springs that helps in the front to allow for a full -2 camber. To get into the oversteer setup, you would need toe out-in the rear, (not safe for street driving IMHO as mentioned above.), You might also need stiffer rear sway bar, and I would recommend a strut tower brace. Those last two (Sway & BAR) mods will necessitate a choice on whether you will run Solo2 AS, or ESP. A choice I leave to you. While the last two may not be necesary, setting toe out in teh rear without adressing overall car balance may ust lead to more 4 wheel drift than overstter. The back steping out, and the front pushing as well. AS always that is just my .02

 

Just had mine aligned today. I have Hotchkis springs and rear bar at the stiffest setting. Car still had mild understeer. I got all the available negative camber available in the front with the factory hardware. I had to sacrifice some negative camber in the rear to avoid unwanted toe-in. New settings are shown below.

Left front: -1.6 camber; 3.5 caster, -.02 Toe Right front: -1.9 camber; 3.3 caster; -.01 toe
Left rear: -.9 camber; .01 toe Right rear: -.7 camber; .01 toe

Any efforts to increase the rear camber required additional toe-in so I opted for the max camber available with the near 0 toe settings in an effort to mitigate understeer.

I am not positive which option has the most impact on understeer, more negative camber or less toe-in. I went with less toe-in.

Anyone care to share their insights?