One side brake bleeding
One side brake bleeding
Okay maybe I missed this but I do not see this anywhere in this forum.
anyway...I took the front right side caliper off and disconnected it from the brake hose line, plugged the line off and comensed with cleaning the caliper and reinstalling my pads with grease to stop the squeeling, zipped everything back up and am ready to bleed. Do I only need to bleed the side that I worked on? Or do I have to bleed the whole system all 4, if so then I'll just wait till I finish with the fronts and do the rears as well.
anyway...I took the front right side caliper off and disconnected it from the brake hose line, plugged the line off and comensed with cleaning the caliper and reinstalling my pads with grease to stop the squeeling, zipped everything back up and am ready to bleed. Do I only need to bleed the side that I worked on? Or do I have to bleed the whole system all 4, if so then I'll just wait till I finish with the fronts and do the rears as well.
Evolved Member
Joined: Mar 2003
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A good rule is: If you ever disconnect a brake line, bleed the entire system.
On each corner first bleed the outer bleed screw on the caliper, then the inner. The caliper bleeding order per the factory manual is:
1) Right Rear
2) Left Front
3) Left Rear
4) Right Front
The manual also says to bleed the car with the engine running - I'm assuming that is to allow the ABS circut to cycle. The recomended fluid is DOT 3 or DOT 4.
As a track junkie I generally use ATE super blue brake fluid and bleed my brakes before (and sometimes after) every track day.
I didn't see a periodic recomendation in the manual, but for normal street use I'd recomend bleeding the brakes every time you change brake pads or at least once a year. You may want to just bleed the brakes every spring to help prevent moisture build-up. A good bleeding means that you're seeing new, clean fluid in the clear hoose between the caliper and your catch jar.
On each corner first bleed the outer bleed screw on the caliper, then the inner. The caliper bleeding order per the factory manual is:
1) Right Rear
2) Left Front
3) Left Rear
4) Right Front
The manual also says to bleed the car with the engine running - I'm assuming that is to allow the ABS circut to cycle. The recomended fluid is DOT 3 or DOT 4.
As a track junkie I generally use ATE super blue brake fluid and bleed my brakes before (and sometimes after) every track day.
I didn't see a periodic recomendation in the manual, but for normal street use I'd recomend bleeding the brakes every time you change brake pads or at least once a year. You may want to just bleed the brakes every spring to help prevent moisture build-up. A good bleeding means that you're seeing new, clean fluid in the clear hoose between the caliper and your catch jar.
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: Cerritos
Originally Posted by erioshi
A good rule is: If you ever disconnect a brake line, bleed the entire system.
On each corner first bleed the outer bleed screw on the caliper, then the inner. The caliper bleeding order per the factory manual is:
1) Right Rear
2) Left Front
3) Left Rear
4) Right Front
The manual also says to bleed the car with the engine running - I'm assuming that is to allow the ABS circut to cycle. The recomended fluid is DOT 3 or DOT 4.
As a track junkie I generally use ATE super blue brake fluid and bleed my brakes before (and sometimes after) every track day.
I didn't see a periodic recomendation in the manual, but for normal street use I'd recomend bleeding the brakes every time you change brake pads or at least once a year. You may want to just bleed the brakes every spring to help prevent moisture build-up. A good bleeding means that you're seeing new, clean fluid in the clear hoose between the caliper and your catch jar.
On each corner first bleed the outer bleed screw on the caliper, then the inner. The caliper bleeding order per the factory manual is:
1) Right Rear
2) Left Front
3) Left Rear
4) Right Front
The manual also says to bleed the car with the engine running - I'm assuming that is to allow the ABS circut to cycle. The recomended fluid is DOT 3 or DOT 4.
As a track junkie I generally use ATE super blue brake fluid and bleed my brakes before (and sometimes after) every track day.
I didn't see a periodic recomendation in the manual, but for normal street use I'd recomend bleeding the brakes every time you change brake pads or at least once a year. You may want to just bleed the brakes every spring to help prevent moisture build-up. A good bleeding means that you're seeing new, clean fluid in the clear hoose between the caliper and your catch jar.
Thank you for the help. I appreciate it
I wonder how folks with Motive power bleeders ( http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html ) bleed their brakes.
I just got mine today and I'm looking to test it out this weekend.
Do you also open up all of the nipples in the order described above or do you do it somehow differently.
Thanks
I just got mine today and I'm looking to test it out this weekend.
Do you also open up all of the nipples in the order described above or do you do it somehow differently.
Thanks
Evolved Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,114
Likes: 0
According to the manual you bleed first the outside then the inside of each caliper, and then move to the next caliper.
As for starting the car: I ran my brake system completely dry when installing my stainless steel brake lines. I first bled the car without the engine running and I could still feel a tiny bit of air in the system. I then started the car and re-bled everything and things felt better. If you never run you master cylinder dry you probably don't need to start the car.
A quick note about the master cylinder resivior - the clutch uses the back part of the brake master cylinder resivior for its fluid supply. If you're not careful it's possible to see the fluid in the clutch area and still think there is fluid in the brake section of the resivior even when there isn't. I mention this because a friend ran into this problem when bleeding the brakes on his Evo. He ended up having to re-bleed the system from scratch.
As for starting the car: I ran my brake system completely dry when installing my stainless steel brake lines. I first bled the car without the engine running and I could still feel a tiny bit of air in the system. I then started the car and re-bled everything and things felt better. If you never run you master cylinder dry you probably don't need to start the car.
A quick note about the master cylinder resivior - the clutch uses the back part of the brake master cylinder resivior for its fluid supply. If you're not careful it's possible to see the fluid in the clutch area and still think there is fluid in the brake section of the resivior even when there isn't. I mention this because a friend ran into this problem when bleeding the brakes on his Evo. He ended up having to re-bleed the system from scratch.
Last edited by erioshi; Sep 9, 2005 at 03:58 AM.
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