Looking for concaved rims
wed sport sa90's i believe are exactly what you are looking for. They are the top ones in this thread:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...highlight=sa90
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...highlight=sa90
i just got the new ADVAN RS's in.
click for pics: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=176720
click for pics: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=176720
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From: Where you come to vacation and go home on probation! Vegas!
To get the concave look you'll need a +15 or lower offset ... most of the picks you have posted where they have the concave look in the front are running wider fenders in the front. I have been researching this for like 5 months ... IF you really want that look you need new fenders.
Originally Posted by M3this
To get the concave look you'll need a +15 or lower offset ... most of the picks you have posted where they have the concave look in the front are running wider fenders in the front. I have been researching this for like 5 months ... IF you really want that look you need new fenders.
Originally Posted by showoff
Hey SmokinJoe, those rims look sick. Where did you get them and how much?
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...hreadid=173417
they are the P45r
Originally Posted by M3this
To get the concave look you'll need a +15 or lower offset ... most of the picks you have posted where they have the concave look in the front are running wider fenders in the front. I have been researching this for like 5 months ... IF you really want that look you need new fenders.
That's a major misconception. Offset has little to do with how concave a wheel's spokes are - especially on import style wheels. It's the WIDTH of the rim.
Those are 9.5 with a 30mm offset. TE37's, BuddyClubs, and 5Zigen's support this as well.
Originally Posted by SmokinJoe
That's a major misconception. Offset has little to do with how concave a wheel's spokes are - especially on import style wheels. It's the WIDTH of the rim.
Those are 9.5 with a 30mm offset. TE37's, BuddyClubs, and 5Zigen's support this as well.
Those are 9.5 with a 30mm offset. TE37's, BuddyClubs, and 5Zigen's support this as well.
One additional point; only certain rims will concave w/ increase in width. my 17x9.5 gtv's look like a 17x8.5 gtv; besides the width of the lip.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Bangkok
I would not say that it is entirely true that the width of the rim solely determines how concave it is. The offset, as we know, is the distance the mating surface (to the rotor) from the acutal centre plane of the wheel.
Example:
So, if you have a 10.5" wide wheel and you're running +38mm offset (about 1 1/2" offset) then the mating surface is 5.25-1.5 = 3.75" inward of the rim's outer edge. Let's say the hub on your wheel is 2" then the face on which the nuts sit is only 3.75-2 = 1.75" inwards of the outer rim.
Now if we do the same for a 8.5" wheel you end up with 0.75" inwards from the outer rim. So less, but basically less by the difference in width divided by two.
But if we take our 8.5" wheel and run a +12mm offset (about 1/2"), we get ((8.5/2)-0.5)-2 = 1.75" inwards of the outer rim. Which is the same as the 10.5" wheel.
This is fairly simplistic and the numbers are slightly silly to make them easier on my brain. However, my point is that the numbers work together. Theoretically, it is best to keep the same offset and so increasing the width is the way to go, but for most people who don't want to mess about with their fenders, there's very limited room for increasing the width of the wheel.
If it is purely the concave effect you're after, getting smaller diameter wheels wil help make the effect more promounced, perhaps (making it look like it caves in steeper).
Example:
So, if you have a 10.5" wide wheel and you're running +38mm offset (about 1 1/2" offset) then the mating surface is 5.25-1.5 = 3.75" inward of the rim's outer edge. Let's say the hub on your wheel is 2" then the face on which the nuts sit is only 3.75-2 = 1.75" inwards of the outer rim.
Now if we do the same for a 8.5" wheel you end up with 0.75" inwards from the outer rim. So less, but basically less by the difference in width divided by two.
But if we take our 8.5" wheel and run a +12mm offset (about 1/2"), we get ((8.5/2)-0.5)-2 = 1.75" inwards of the outer rim. Which is the same as the 10.5" wheel.
This is fairly simplistic and the numbers are slightly silly to make them easier on my brain. However, my point is that the numbers work together. Theoretically, it is best to keep the same offset and so increasing the width is the way to go, but for most people who don't want to mess about with their fenders, there's very limited room for increasing the width of the wheel.
If it is purely the concave effect you're after, getting smaller diameter wheels wil help make the effect more promounced, perhaps (making it look like it caves in steeper).
Theoretically what you said is true; but cannot be applied to our vehicles because all 8" and under (width) wheels that I have seen for our vehicles come in a minimum offset of +25 or +30.
Originally Posted by x838nwy
I would not say that it is entirely true that the width of the rim solely determines how concave it is. The offset, as we know, is the distance the mating surface (to the rotor) from the acutal centre plane of the wheel.
Example:
So, if you have a 10.5" wide wheel and you're running +38mm offset (about 1 1/2" offset) then the mating surface is 5.25-1.5 = 3.75" inward of the rim's outer edge. Let's say the hub on your wheel is 2" then the face on which the nuts sit is only 3.75-2 = 1.75" inwards of the outer rim.
Now if we do the same for a 8.5" wheel you end up with 0.75" inwards from the outer rim. So less, but basically less by the difference in width divided by two.
But if we take our 8.5" wheel and run a +12mm offset (about 1/2"), we get ((8.5/2)-0.5)-2 = 1.75" inwards of the outer rim. Which is the same as the 10.5" wheel.
This is fairly simplistic and the numbers are slightly silly to make them easier on my brain. However, my point is that the numbers work together. Theoretically, it is best to keep the same offset and so increasing the width is the way to go, but for most people who don't want to mess about with their fenders, there's very limited room for increasing the width of the wheel.
If it is purely the concave effect you're after, getting smaller diameter wheels wil help make the effect more promounced, perhaps (making it look like it caves in steeper).
Example:
So, if you have a 10.5" wide wheel and you're running +38mm offset (about 1 1/2" offset) then the mating surface is 5.25-1.5 = 3.75" inward of the rim's outer edge. Let's say the hub on your wheel is 2" then the face on which the nuts sit is only 3.75-2 = 1.75" inwards of the outer rim.
Now if we do the same for a 8.5" wheel you end up with 0.75" inwards from the outer rim. So less, but basically less by the difference in width divided by two.
But if we take our 8.5" wheel and run a +12mm offset (about 1/2"), we get ((8.5/2)-0.5)-2 = 1.75" inwards of the outer rim. Which is the same as the 10.5" wheel.
This is fairly simplistic and the numbers are slightly silly to make them easier on my brain. However, my point is that the numbers work together. Theoretically, it is best to keep the same offset and so increasing the width is the way to go, but for most people who don't want to mess about with their fenders, there's very limited room for increasing the width of the wheel.
If it is purely the concave effect you're after, getting smaller diameter wheels wil help make the effect more promounced, perhaps (making it look like it caves in steeper).