Alignment question
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From: Kenosha , Wi
Spring+Alignment question
I put springs on an had an alignment done but was curious about the ACTUAL reading in red ! More or less is there anything that i should worry about with these readings ? *** I noticed on the right front that the wheel is tilted inward towards the strut an is more obvious than the left side!***
Would the TEIN camber plates help or those special bolts ?
Would the TEIN camber plates help or those special bolts ?
Last edited by M3ss; Jan 18, 2006 at 05:38 PM.
Eh?
Is it just me or does the sheet say your RIGHT front wheel has more camber than your LEFT front wheel?
Numbers in red it seems simply mean they're out of the "specified range".
But dude seriously you should worry more about your right wheel having more camber than your left.. if I'm right that is...
Is it just me or does the sheet say your RIGHT front wheel has more camber than your LEFT front wheel?
Numbers in red it seems simply mean they're out of the "specified range".
But dude seriously you should worry more about your right wheel having more camber than your left.. if I'm right that is...
your camber values look a little funny.
cross camber is roughly the difference between the two camber values. On your evo, it's either 1 +/-0.5 degrees _OR_ 2 +/-0.5 degrees. The difference between the two should not be more than 0.5degrees.
your LEFT wheel is within the 1 +/-0.5
BUT
your RIGHT wheel is within the 2 +/-0.5
while each is in tolerance, the difference between them is not. Now, there might be light at the end of this tunnel yet. If you clean all the gunk off, you will see that the lower end of your front strut is held on to the wheel hub (or knuckle) by two bolts. The top one will have an arrow on it. If this arrow point IN to the car, the camber should be 1+/-0.5, if it points OUT, it's 2 +/-0.5
hopefully, one of yours is pointing in (LEFT) and the other (RIGHT) is pointing out. Get them pointing both out or in should get them back in tolerance. I'd suggest pointing them bot OUT cos I think you loose a little camber with a lowered car.
See if this works before you get the camber plates. They're not that great. It will help you set camber but eventually they will be worn and make an annoying noise.
CHECK THE TOE AFTER CAMBER ADJUSTMENT
You will do well to adjust the toe in the rear also, the figures I have says 0.05 is the minimum value.
cross camber is roughly the difference between the two camber values. On your evo, it's either 1 +/-0.5 degrees _OR_ 2 +/-0.5 degrees. The difference between the two should not be more than 0.5degrees.
your LEFT wheel is within the 1 +/-0.5
BUT
your RIGHT wheel is within the 2 +/-0.5
while each is in tolerance, the difference between them is not. Now, there might be light at the end of this tunnel yet. If you clean all the gunk off, you will see that the lower end of your front strut is held on to the wheel hub (or knuckle) by two bolts. The top one will have an arrow on it. If this arrow point IN to the car, the camber should be 1+/-0.5, if it points OUT, it's 2 +/-0.5
hopefully, one of yours is pointing in (LEFT) and the other (RIGHT) is pointing out. Get them pointing both out or in should get them back in tolerance. I'd suggest pointing them bot OUT cos I think you loose a little camber with a lowered car.
See if this works before you get the camber plates. They're not that great. It will help you set camber but eventually they will be worn and make an annoying noise.
CHECK THE TOE AFTER CAMBER ADJUSTMENT
You will do well to adjust the toe in the rear also, the figures I have says 0.05 is the minimum value.
In my experience few shops do good alignments, especially on a modified suspension. The exception are true race shops - ask if they corner weigh the car, if the person you are talking to gives you a blank stare, go somewhere else. It is also fairly easy to do your own alignment, especially in the front when you have camber plates. Check this thread for how to do it:
http://www.evolutionmr.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=637
Edit: you don't need camber plates to make the alignment work, but they are more accurate and easier to work with than just the stock eccentric bolts.
http://www.evolutionmr.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=637
Edit: you don't need camber plates to make the alignment work, but they are more accurate and easier to work with than just the stock eccentric bolts.
Right front is laid in more than the left front. I would probably complain that they removed the values for individual camber for the front when printing out the specs. That much cross camber could cause some abnormal pull, but will certainly cause abnormal tire wear, especially on the right front. I would also think the steering wheel would be slightly crooked due to such a dramatic cross camber situation. Camber plates would remedy this if you found someone who can do the work properly.
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From: Kenosha , Wi
Just tires told me that i need camber correction bolts that they ordered for the front ,otherwise than that the car doesn't pull as far as i can tell ! **CAN ANYONE IN CHICAGO POINT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION AS FAR AS A SHOP?** undefinedundefinededit the car pulls if steering held straight on different roads , !@#$ this i may just opt for COIL_OVERS!
Last edited by M3ss; Jan 17, 2006 at 08:09 PM.
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You don't need new bolts. Just undo the top nut, take the bolt out rotate 180degrees and reinstall the bolt. As I mentioned, there's two basic camber settings with stock parts so theres's no need to order anything special. Since yours seem to point in opposite directions, you only need to do ONE.
Have you checked the arrows on the bolt heads?
edit: p.s. it sounds easy and it is. just needs a bit of hamering (soft/dead blows, not anyhting that will wreck your suspension!).
Have you checked the arrows on the bolt heads?
edit: p.s. it sounds easy and it is. just needs a bit of hamering (soft/dead blows, not anyhting that will wreck your suspension!).
Last edited by x838nwy; Jan 17, 2006 at 07:00 PM.
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From: Kenosha , Wi
Originally Posted by x838nwy
You don't need new bolts. Just undo the top nut, take the bolt out rotate 180degrees and reinstall the bolt. As I mentioned, there's two basic camber settings with stock parts so theres's no need to order anything special. Since yours seem to point in opposite directions, you only need to do ONE.
Have you checked the arrows on the bolt heads?
edit: p.s. it sounds easy and it is. just needs a bit of hamering (soft/dead blows, not anyhting that will wreck your suspension!).
Have you checked the arrows on the bolt heads?
edit: p.s. it sounds easy and it is. just needs a bit of hamering (soft/dead blows, not anyhting that will wreck your suspension!).
The arrows are what's causing this large cross camber. Once you managed to get either one turned around, get your wheels aligned again and you should be sorted.
As for the springs.... it's an extremely good question. I'd say that it doesn't matter IF BOTH ENDS ARE THE SAME. And I think they are on the evo, but it's been a long time since I had it out. Having said that all the setups I've seen with 'helper' springs (a softer one in series with the 'active' spring, installed when the active ones are so hard your vision blurs) seem to reside at the bottom. So theoretically, if you have a non-constant pitch spring, the closer pitch should be at the bottom. If you have a non-constant diameter spring, the smaller shold be at the bottom. That's if you're following the logic of putting the softer spring at the bottom. If both ends are the same then I don't think there's any difference which way it points. The struts see the same force and the springs see the same force either way. Perhaps Hotchkins buy their wire with their logo on and cold form their springs. In that case the dude at the machine just fed it in the wrong way
Now there are springs that have an up and down because the top and bottom are not the same, like ground/unground or whatever.
As for the springs.... it's an extremely good question. I'd say that it doesn't matter IF BOTH ENDS ARE THE SAME. And I think they are on the evo, but it's been a long time since I had it out. Having said that all the setups I've seen with 'helper' springs (a softer one in series with the 'active' spring, installed when the active ones are so hard your vision blurs) seem to reside at the bottom. So theoretically, if you have a non-constant pitch spring, the closer pitch should be at the bottom. If you have a non-constant diameter spring, the smaller shold be at the bottom. That's if you're following the logic of putting the softer spring at the bottom. If both ends are the same then I don't think there's any difference which way it points. The struts see the same force and the springs see the same force either way. Perhaps Hotchkins buy their wire with their logo on and cold form their springs. In that case the dude at the machine just fed it in the wrong way

Now there are springs that have an up and down because the top and bottom are not the same, like ground/unground or whatever.
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