Just take a set of stock Evo 8 wheels and take a angle grinder to them to shave soem weight

 

do you know how much weight you could reduce by shaving them and also do you know how it will effect the structural integrity of the rim, if you shave them on hard driving?

Or are you just being sarcastic or trying to be funny?

I'm looking into 17x9 5 zigen. they're super light, very cheap and seems to be very strong.

 

i think you mean fn01r and fn01rc? that's hte difference between the forged and cast version

 

how much do the work emotion kai's wheigh. i like them in 17 by 8.5

whats stock 17 by 8 right. and like 20lbs

 

I wouldn't say they were super light or super strong.

 

wheelspecs.com is the place to find wheels and weights.

 

I just bought some 17X9 Fn01R-c's and they weighed 19.6 lbs. on my very accurate digital scale. I thought they would be lighter. I can't feel any difference over the stock wheels in terms of acceleration. I'm also running 255/40 RT615's. They're pretty good but the sidewall doesn't seem as stiff as the stock a046's.

 

cool i want one of those 2

 

i have volks now. thanks.

 

i got some ssr gt2 17 they weigh 15.xxlbs for sale shoot me a pm

 

Motegi Tracklite weighs 14lbs .

 

There is much more to wheel technology than weight. If you are serious about low weight like under 17.5 lbs per wheel, you should take a deep breath and think real hard abouit what you are going to do and are able to afford. The Evo is not a light weight car for starters. Autocrossing is a fairly violent exercise of the car, suspension and wheels. While light wheels are very desirable because of things like rotational inertia, unsprung weight, and maintaining road contact, there is a double edged sword here. In general, if you take two wheels made out of the same alloy utilizing the same metalurgical technology, the lighter wheel will be the weaker wheel. Since the Evo is not a light weight car and it has a decent suspension capable of high G forces, I would highly recommend against simply the "light weight wheel" as being your endpoint. It is possible to get a lighter and stronger wheel if it is forged and compared to a cast wheel. 9 times out of 10 the forged wheel will cost more, usually a lot more. So, if you are going to look for light wheels, then you should look for forged wheels. The last thing anyone needs is to buy a wheel that is suitable for an anemic 4-cylinder, 2400 lb. FWD car and collapse it in the middle an autocross high speed lane change.

I think the MR wheels are a very good, reduced weight and good price point option. They have been engineered for the full weight Evo on sticky Yokkahama 048 tires and BBS is a good wheel company. You may have to wait for them to become available. I bought a set for $800 with half used Yokahamas on them. I sold the Yokahamas for $400 and ended up with MR rims for $400. You can beat this with a stick.

If 17.5 lbs is too heavy, then you had better be looking at forged wheels from the companies with the best reputations. Deep pockets are required. $500 each is the low end forged wheel and $2000 plus each is the high end. This type of money will save you 1-2 lbs per wheel cpmpared to the MR wheels. An average MR wheel and tire weighs 43.5 lbs. A 2 lb reduction will amount to a 4.6% reduction in tire and wheel weight. You will gain a lot more advantage by spend your time and money elsewhere. My experience has taught me that careful preparation, seat time and skill will win over money almost every time.