Funny title...but the issue I am having is not. As it turns out, after wanting to replace my old Volks with new ones, I realized that the peeps that put on the first set cross-threaded the lug nuts onto the studs and when we tried to unscrew them they locked up and started to actually turn the studs themeselves.

So are my options:
1. Drill them out and ruin the wheels?
2. Tack the studs from the inside and break the lug nut loose?
3. Cut the studs from the inside and push them thru?
4....any other ideas or has anybody experienced BS like this?

I would appreciate any help since I am now ready to GLOCK the folks at TK that ruined them in the first place.

Thnx guys...

 

whatever you do, minimize the damage to you wheels!

I've had this happen in which the idiots cross-threaded my studs as well. I would cut the studs...

this is why every time I rotate or mount, I always always always, go out to the garage, and supervise the tech and tell him to torque it down by hand. It's the only way to ensure it's done right. Additionally, I also have extra studs and lugs on hand in case one does get cross-threaded, it would be easy to replace on the spot. Obviously, the parts are cheap, but is often not available at the dealer at time of need.

 

bump,...for answers/ideas.

 

ouch, sorry to hear it man.

Have you tried calling a machine shop? They might be able to drill them out for you without ruining your wheels.

 

jbrown, well i figure we could use a diamond drill bit and a "little bigger than the lug nut" pipe around it as a drill guide and then just go to town. Bottom line do not use an impact when tightening your NUTZ, ;-)...and pre-tighten by hand. These guys didnt have a clue I tell you that.

 

HOw do you suggest cutting them? Can you get behind the hub/rotor/brake assembly and get a "cutter" back there? I bought a whole sack full of evo studs and am ready to replace all of them with volk lug nutz on the way. Anyway, thnx for more ideas....

 

a really good mechanic will be able to get the wheels off safely with *minimal* damage to them.

it's going to take some time, it will not be easy, and it's gonna be expensive.

personally, i would cut the lug nuts off of the studs. i'd use a small cutoff wheel or a nut splitter and some punches. cut each nut down the side, split it with a punch(wedge), and peel it off of the stud.

if they are steel nuts, then it will suck. if they are aluminum, then it won't be nearly so bad.

i wish you a heartfelt good luck. this is gonna be one major suck project. 8^(

--r

 

solomrus, i know total PITA, but i wont be able to cut them because of how deep the lug nut is recessed into the rim face without completely destroying perfectly good Volk GT-7's. Wont drilling work?

 

We need to know if the issue is on the front or rear as the approach required will be different.

If front - Without looking at it, I think this would work:

1) Suspend car to take weight off wheel and allow access to back of hub
2) Remove the brake caliper (don't scratch wheel inside with it)
3) Turn the hub so that the head of the stud is exposed (at the front side of spindle)
6) Cover the inside of the wheel to protect it from hot shavings
7) Grind or cut the head off of the stud
8) Protect the face of the wheel from falling stud/nut
8) Tap the stud shaft out from the back using something like a large punch or 1/4" drive socket extension

For rear - Again, off the top of my head:

1) See 1 above.
2) Remove brake caliper (don't scratch wheel inside with it)
3) Tape up wheel to protect the wheel finish around the center cap
4) Carefully pry out the center cap (very difficult not to scratch cap and/or wheel)
5) Remove the cotter pin and spindle nut (hold wheel as it may want to slide off)
6) With e-brake disengaged, remove the wheel assembly and lay face down on something to protect wheel face (protect wheel finish from hot shavings)
7) Use the above method to removed the studs from the rear
8) Make sure you reinstall the hub according to proper factory procedures...

Hope this helps,
Ethan

 

it might. you planning on drilling from the front face to the rear?

are the nuts open ended or closed?

are they steel or al?

--r

 

ethan has a good plan there.

the key will be accessing the rear of the studs... the end that actually is pressed in to the hub.

get some help with this, someone that either REALLY likes you as a friend, or someone that will pay off easily with beer and pizza.

some tools that might be handy: air cut off wheels. carbide burrs for a die grinder, 4 or 4.5" angle grinder with a few wheels, hammers, punches, chisels, a good 1/2" drill motor and some GOOD 10/12mm drill bits. cutting fluid(will keep you from buying a TON of drills).

what else?

good jack stands. liquids, smokes, and whatever else you need in the garage.

--r

 

I was thinking on drilling them from the front thru the head, they are Volk Long Lug Nutz, not sure if alum or steel. But the stud itself is pretty short therefore figure it would take not long with the right drill.

EZ: getting behind the wheel is a good idea but the brake caliber might be a little hard to remove, however this would surely protect the face of wheel.

BTW: It is the front left wheel and I am not even sure if the other ones are affected by the same @#$%..$****ze. Thnx for all the input...

 

You hit a great point there, it needs to be a friend that CARES. Beer, pizza, smokes are gonna be there as well. I might do it at a friends shop since he has all the tools. I just need to have the right approach to the healing process of my Evo.

 

Yeah, it may be tight or even impossible depending on the wheel. If it won't come off, you could possibly slide it out to the wheel inside, suspending it with balled up towels or wire. That may give you the clearance to get to the stud head. You may be able to drill off the head with the caliper still in place...not sure without looking...

 

i can't see where drilling from the front will be the best way to go about this. you'll be drilling thru the longest axis of the stud, and this will be from the front of the wheel, with the potential to do the most damage. do everything you can do to get to it from the rear. less distance to drill, and a much lower damage risk.

confirm the other lugs are ok. i'd hate to finish that first wheel up, and think that you are in the clear... then run into the same problem on another corner. i would probably do something expensive at that point. 8^(

get it to the shop. having everything you need for this is a great luxury. take advantage of it.

good luck. go slow, the wheel you save, just might be your own. 8^)

--r