Swift Spring Alignment Specs.
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Swift Spring Alignment Specs.
Hey guys!
Forgive me if this has been beaten to death. I used the search button and couldn't find what I was looking for, so im hoping one of you suspension gurus can help me out.
I have an EVO IX gsr, right now lowered on swifts until I get some coilovers. Its been about 2 weeks since installation and I feel its time for a good alignment. Do any of you know a good place in socal (irvine, laguna beach, orange county area) where I could get a good alignment for street and occasional track use. Exact alignment specs would be great being I know nothing about aignment. Thanks a lot guys.
Forgive me if this has been beaten to death. I used the search button and couldn't find what I was looking for, so im hoping one of you suspension gurus can help me out.
I have an EVO IX gsr, right now lowered on swifts until I get some coilovers. Its been about 2 weeks since installation and I feel its time for a good alignment. Do any of you know a good place in socal (irvine, laguna beach, orange county area) where I could get a good alignment for street and occasional track use. Exact alignment specs would be great being I know nothing about aignment. Thanks a lot guys.
A street alignment can be done at almost anywhere, as any shop should be able to zero out your toe, the most important thing.
IMO, light track use means lapping days and random autocrosses in which you're just looking to have fun and aren't looking to be super competitive. In which case, an aggressive alignment is not necessary at all, and a regular street alignment would do just fine. Any benefit you might see from running a bit of toe in or out would be greatly offset by the increased tire wear, not worth it for a DD IMO, especially not with a good set of tires costing what they do.
IMO, light track use means lapping days and random autocrosses in which you're just looking to have fun and aren't looking to be super competitive. In which case, an aggressive alignment is not necessary at all, and a regular street alignment would do just fine. Any benefit you might see from running a bit of toe in or out would be greatly offset by the increased tire wear, not worth it for a DD IMO, especially not with a good set of tires costing what they do.
Originally Posted by ecko_3420
why wait 2 weeks for the alignment??
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Originally Posted by andifidie
Hey guys!
Forgive me if this has been beaten to death. I used the search button and couldn't find what I was looking for, so im hoping one of you suspension gurus can help me out.
I have an EVO IX gsr, right now lowered on swifts until I get some coilovers. Its been about 2 weeks since installation and I feel its time for a good alignment. Do any of you know a good place in socal (irvine, laguna beach, orange county area) where I could get a good alignment for street and occasional track use. Exact alignment specs would be great being I know nothing about aignment. Thanks a lot guys.
Forgive me if this has been beaten to death. I used the search button and couldn't find what I was looking for, so im hoping one of you suspension gurus can help me out.
I have an EVO IX gsr, right now lowered on swifts until I get some coilovers. Its been about 2 weeks since installation and I feel its time for a good alignment. Do any of you know a good place in socal (irvine, laguna beach, orange county area) where I could get a good alignment for street and occasional track use. Exact alignment specs would be great being I know nothing about aignment. Thanks a lot guys.
Without camber plates your max camber you can reach will be around -1.5ish deg. for the front and -1 for rear.
For mostly street use - thats fine. I would go -1.5, -1 with zero toe and max pos.(sorry thinking of camber when writing that...) caster (from my specs I want to say +3'55).
Last edited by Smike; Nov 8, 2006 at 01:04 PM.
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Originally Posted by SmikeEvo
Correct 0 toe.
Without camber plates your max camber you can reach will be around -1.5ish deg. for the front and -1 for rear.
For mostly street use - thats fine. I would go -1.5, -1 with zero toe and max neg. caster (from my specs I want to say 3'55).
Without camber plates your max camber you can reach will be around -1.5ish deg. for the front and -1 for rear.
For mostly street use - thats fine. I would go -1.5, -1 with zero toe and max neg. caster (from my specs I want to say 3'55).
those are my specs ut i have a little toe for highspeed stability
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Bringing this back from the past. I went in to the dealer today to have my alignment done after swift spring install (06 Gsr). They have been on the car a month now but the car isnt daily driven so I'm assuming they have settled in by now. Anyway, I was told by the dealer that the rears can be re-aligned to stock spec but the fronts can not be brought back to stock unless i use camber bolts (made by Ingalls) or a set of camber plates. I just want the suspension re-aligned to stock and nothing else. I dont track the car nor do I ever plan on tracking the car in the near future. Can someone chime in and let me know whats best for my situation. Thanks.
you mean the fronts will have less chamber (than bone stock) with the swifts even after an alignment unless you get chamber plates?
Originally Posted by NoTec
Bringing this back from the past. I went in to the dealer today to have my alignment done after swift spring install (06 Gsr). They have been on the car a month now but the car isnt daily driven so I'm assuming they have settled in by now. Anyway, I was told by the dealer that the rears can be re-aligned to stock spec but the fronts can not be brought back to stock unless i use camber bolts (made by Ingalls) or a set of camber plates. I just want the suspension re-aligned to stock and nothing else. I dont track the car nor do I ever plan on tracking the car in the near future. Can someone chime in and let me know whats best for my situation. Thanks.
NoTec,
The dealer isn't making sense. As you lower a car you should be able to gain more negative camber then stock.
My suggestion is take it to a good reputable alignment shop or a race shop to have it done right.
The dealer isn't making sense. As you lower a car you should be able to gain more negative camber then stock.
My suggestion is take it to a good reputable alignment shop or a race shop to have it done right.
You dont need camber bolts. You could get ~-1.8 camber in front by turning the eggcentric bolt in the front struts. Mine was aligned to -1.5 in front and -1.0 in rear if i remember correctly.
I'm in the process of installing my Swift spring on my Evo 9 MR. Can I align my Evo back to factory spec, without the camber plate? Also, do I need to purchase set of bumpstop(Whiteline)? Thanks



