Hey Mister,
Although I am not entirely sold on the merits of cryo-treating, I know it does no harm. The brake-truing process I had never tried before but after trashing my first set of rotors I thought what the heck. The stock system works fine on the street for 99.9% of people out there. On the track the stock pads would fade first and then burn and crumble. The pads I was running are Performance Friction 01 compounds. This is a very well respected pad in the racing community.
Cheers,

 

...understatement...

But bring your wallet...and his wallet....and that guys wallet over there to pay for them.

 

I took my car to the track and had severe brake fade after the first few laps. Granted, this was a very brake intensive course. I have just purchased steel brake lines and I am bout to replace the fluid - probably with motul 600. I am interested to see what people suggest for pads. I'll keep you posted as to my next trip to the track...

 

am currently using the white top secret pads. not bad, and they don't squeal like project mu or endless

 

this is such a delicate science.. some pads are so hard that this is the reason for the warping... some rotors are just crap.. and then there's the torquing the lugs down correctly (and NOT too hard!)..

i dont think it's a design flaw of the brake system... but rather just a matter of getting all these variables in harmony...

good luck with your experimenting! very interesting read indeed!

 

wtz- Many of us thought it was build-up not warping With PF pads I've always done a hard on track break in to "cook out" the pads and leave the now smoking pads to cool in the paddock making sure that the pads are not touching the discs when stopped cooling. It gives you a very consistent pad for its life. That was when PF first came out I don't know if there is a better process now? I have had good luck with Hawk pads lately...very little build-up.

 

Good news and consistent with the excellent Stoptech link posted by Maddmatt. Those of you still thinking that warped rotors are the cause of this problrm need to read that link.

 

Hi all,
Ran the Evo at Summit Point on Friday. I had turned the rotors, switched back to Pagid rs15's and bedded the pads in carefully. I also tried torquing the wheels to 100 ft lbs. No problems in the first session, although I again had to retorque the wheels. I'm beginning to think that the SSR's with the spacer up front are causing hub centering problems. I am going to try race tires on the stock wheels next time. Made it through the day without extreme judder. The brakes worked fine under hard braking going into turn one, and at the end of the chute, but in light braking corners like wagon bend and turn 10 there was definite judder. You can once again see uneven pad material on the disc. Saw Rob Hines down there shaking out his new T2 Camaro. He was singing the praises for the Carbotech 1108's after, of course, I pried the info out of him. We were running similar lap times, although he could'nt match the Evo's best laps.
Cheers,

 

wtz, if I'm following this correctly you think the judder may be related to your non-stock wheels? Like perversity, one track day and I knew the pads had to go; although I really toasted the pads I didn't experience any judder with my stock wheels.

Maddmatt, if I follow the carbotech site info correctly the 1106 (P+) compound pads would be a good choice for a daily driver that sees some track time and hard driving? How would the the 1106's be about squeal and dust? I don't get shakes over dirty rims, but others might.

 

All of our Panther compounds(Panther Plus, XP8, and XP9) dust a good bit and make some noise under light line pressure on the street. If you ran them on the street all the time, I would say in ~20,000 miles, your rotors are going to need replacing.

None of our Panther compounds are intended as street pads. They are intended to be a track pad you can drive on the street to/from the track. For *years* before I started working at Carbotech, I would always change my Carbotech pads at home a day or 2 before the event, drive to the track, drive all weekend, and then drive home to change pads later, in my garage out of the wind, sun, rain, heat, cold, whatever. While drinking a beer. All I would have to do on Sunday is pack the car, and point/laugh/stare at my friends changing their pads.

Doesn't sound like an all out race pad to you? O contraire. We're winning LOTS of races. Our customers will likely clean house at the national race at Road Atlanta this weekend...again. I hope to have at least one national championship to hang on the wall (either T2, SSB or SSC, I don't care) after the Runoffs.

If you're looking for a street pad, our newly released Bobcat compound is beginning to get quite a following, particulary in the Subaru community. Go over to NASIOC and do a search on Carbotech. The beauty part is, it's compatible with our Panther track compounds. You can run the two pads on the same rotor without worrying about incompatible materials on the rotor causing brake shudder. I'm constantly swapping back and forth between Bobcat and Panther Plus on the same rotors on my SE-R. Zero problems.

 

Hi Matt,
Just wanted to apologize for not saying hello when I spoke to Larry. I wasn't sure you were the Mad Matt.
Cheers,

 

Indeed, I am.

 

Ok, all silly price posting rules a side, what will a set of Bobcats cost for the Evo? Fronts? Rears? A potiental customer is asking...

ps I need a front set for the wife's Acura Type R calipers also...

 

I have also tracked my car (for the momment stock everything regarding the brakes) at http://www.motorsportranch.com/ (I am a member of this club) on three different days. After reading all of the posts about warped rotors/pad material deposits I was very paranoid regarding the brakes. This course is extremely hard on brakes, so after each session/cool down lap I would drive right out of the track and cruise for another 5-10 miles on the street. I did not have a single problem regarding the brakes untill on my third track day, when I decided to not run my extended cool down. Sure enough my next session I have brake judder, and it's getting worse each lap, finally had to call it a day.

I had read some posts indicating that switching to after market rotors would help this problem. Looking at these brakes, they appear extremely beefy, I just cannot imagine needing to upgrade them. One thing I noticed was that the rotors are very thick especially compared to most aftermarket/race rotors that typically have a larger air gap and thinner side walls. I beginning to think these rotors just take a lot longer to cool down than what we are all use too. If this is true you can either extend your cool down periods or get some rotors with a larger air gap/thinner walls, that should cool down much faster.

BTW as you already know this car is awsome on the track, it's so freaking predictable. Maxing out the front negative camber helps but it seems to need more, has anyone come up with somthing for that yet? I was able to run 129.3's at this track (stock tires/everything), for reference the track workers were telling me that people with ZO6's who know how to drive are running 128's. This is a tight technical course were HP is not as important so...

 

If you guys check out the lancerregister.com over there in the UK, they have all stated that the EVO stock Brembo rotors suck and warp or retain material easily! Everyone seems to reccomend the Bradi Group N rotors from a guy named stockcar. I am going to try and get a set from him one of these days.