17x10 and 17x9 35mm setup
First off, it's beyond me why you'd want to run 10's unless you're running 275's or bigger.
Normally you'd do some/any suspension work before widening up the wheels/tires.
You have a point, on 255's at stock ride height, you don't need anything, but IT WILL RUB at spots. I ran 255's, on 17x9's, and they rubbed the inside front. You could not go lock to lock. Again, this is on stock suspension.
I run drastically more camber than that. I don't claim to be a setup guy, I let robi do that. However, the car is setup properly. You can't stare down the lasers and measure them and say that they're off (not sure if that was a positive or negative crack at robi's work).
Camber plates WILL keep a tire from rubbing the spring. When the car was setup, the camber plates didn't come in, and we were forced to run as much camber as we could get (-2.5 ish). The wheel to spring clearance was non-existant. I had to run my stock wheels/tires.
2 days later, camber plates in, resetup, 275's fit just fine, and have run them for 15-20 odd events since. Granted, the bottom cam bolts were tweaked, but they enabled me to run the correct amount of camber (IE: taking less down low, and using the camber plates as they're intended).
I've heard guys claim a 17x10 won't fit in the rear, without completely killing the fender. Whats your take on that? (thats heresay, as i've never run 17x10's.)
Obviously you'd be running at least a 255 on a 17x10, correct?
Normally you'd do some/any suspension work before widening up the wheels/tires.
You have a point, on 255's at stock ride height, you don't need anything, but IT WILL RUB at spots. I ran 255's, on 17x9's, and they rubbed the inside front. You could not go lock to lock. Again, this is on stock suspension.
I run drastically more camber than that. I don't claim to be a setup guy, I let robi do that. However, the car is setup properly. You can't stare down the lasers and measure them and say that they're off (not sure if that was a positive or negative crack at robi's work).
Camber plates WILL keep a tire from rubbing the spring. When the car was setup, the camber plates didn't come in, and we were forced to run as much camber as we could get (-2.5 ish). The wheel to spring clearance was non-existant. I had to run my stock wheels/tires.
2 days later, camber plates in, resetup, 275's fit just fine, and have run them for 15-20 odd events since. Granted, the bottom cam bolts were tweaked, but they enabled me to run the correct amount of camber (IE: taking less down low, and using the camber plates as they're intended).
I've heard guys claim a 17x10 won't fit in the rear, without completely killing the fender. Whats your take on that? (thats heresay, as i've never run 17x10's.)
Obviously you'd be running at least a 255 on a 17x10, correct?
I had been thinking about running 17x10's for track wheels before ordering some 9.5's. To test fitment I swapped my fronts (I run split offset, not split width) to the back. These are et25 9.5J and have the same overall position in the wheel well as a 10J et 35. With a 10 I would have needed a 4mm spacer (which would move the wheel to the same outboard location as my rear wheels et35mm 9.5J) to actually make it work in real life. However as far as the fender question, mine are rolled and pulled and at -1.5* worked fine. For my track alignment this would be at least -2.0 so it would only get better and keep the fender from being completely killed.
My comment about Robi had no malice. PM me about this if you want a more in depth conversation.
I run 275's on the street and track in both R compound and regular street tires and havent had many complications in so doing. Everyones method varies, my results are what I want as yours are undoubtedly what you were after.
My comment about Robi had no malice. PM me about this if you want a more in depth conversation.
I run 275's on the street and track in both R compound and regular street tires and havent had many complications in so doing. Everyones method varies, my results are what I want as yours are undoubtedly what you were after.
I had been thinking about running 17x10's for track wheels before ordering some 9.5's. To test fitment I swapped my fronts (I run split offset, not split width) to the back. These are et25 9.5J and have the same overall position in the wheel well as a 10J et 35. With a 10 I would have needed a 4mm spacer (which would move the wheel to the same outboard location as my rear wheels et35mm 9.5J) to actually make it work in real life. However as far as the fender question, mine are rolled and pulled and at -1.5* worked fine. For my track alignment this would be at least -2.0 so it would only get better and keep the fender from being completely killed.
My comment about Robi had no malice. PM me about this if you want a more in depth conversation.
I run 275's on the street and track in both R compound and regular street tires and havent had many complications in so doing. Everyones method varies, my results are what I want as yours are undoubtedly what you were after.
My comment about Robi had no malice. PM me about this if you want a more in depth conversation.
I run 275's on the street and track in both R compound and regular street tires and havent had many complications in so doing. Everyones method varies, my results are what I want as yours are undoubtedly what you were after.

Again, lowered suspension issue, but if i'm rubbing the inside on the trailing arm, and the outside on the fender, with 2 degrees of camber, makes ya figure that i'm basically tire'd out without some serious manipulating
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