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The Official Wide Tire Thread

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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 06:39 PM
  #676  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
If you don't mind, what did you pay for the pull and repaint?
I got a lot more than just the wheel clearance done but I'd guess that would cost $1500 to $2k.


Originally Posted by R/TErnie
Buy the damn trailing arms, run 10.5's, and give me money so I can buy more Evo parts.
I would....if there were wheels with high offset that I was interested in. The wheels I would want in 18x10.5 are all low offset.


Originally Posted by Grimgrak
Why not just 18x10 +25 285/30/18 and be done with it? Spacer as needed.
That would not clear any better than 275 on 18x10.5. But would have tire bulge that would take away from handling sharpness.
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 07:01 PM
  #677  
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Originally Posted by deeman101
I would....if there were wheels with high offset that I was interested in. The wheels I would want in 18x10.5 are all low.

I would too, if I could find some used. LOL. once I factored $500+ on top of a set of wheels and tires, I decided to just stick with 255s.
I'll worry about all that if I get to a point where I need it to be competitive.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 10:08 AM
  #678  
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Originally Posted by kaj
I would too, if I could find some used. LOL. once I factored $500+ on top of a set of wheels and tires, I decided to just stick with 255s.
I'll worry about all that if I get to a point where I need it to be competitive.
do you have pics of the 255's?
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 12:01 PM
  #679  
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Originally Posted by joeymass93
do you have pics of the 255's?
i can look when i get home. they are standard fitment. nothing crazy. i'd run 265s if Hankook made that size in a 17" tire.
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 09:28 AM
  #680  
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From: WAR EAGLE!
Originally Posted by deeman101
I got a lot more than just the wheel clearance done but I'd guess that would cost $1500 to $2k.




I would....if there were wheels with high offset that I was interested in. The wheels I would want in 18x10.5 are all low offset.




That would not clear any better than 275 on 18x10.5. But would have tire bulge that would take away from handling sharpness.
PF01's are cheap, anything CCW or Forgeline will work, Work Wheels Professors...
Look at MKIV Supra fitments, their rear wheel fitment is very similar to what you'll need.
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 06:53 PM
  #681  
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Originally Posted by R/TErnie
PF01's are cheap, anything CCW or Forgeline will work, Work Wheels Professors...
Look at MKIV Supra fitments, their rear wheel fitment is very similar to what you'll need.
Those are options but none of them appeal to me for either aesthetic or strength/weight/proven durability reasons. The ones that would are pretty expensive and would make the fender clearing look more feasible.
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Old Mar 14, 2015 | 05:14 AM
  #682  
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Thought I'd bump this thread up. Running 295/30, Enkei RPF1's 10.5 +15. I currently don't have enough material to start a build thread but thought I'd contribute to this thread.


The Official Wide Tire Thread-up9ka3x.jpg


The Official Wide Tire Thread-dcgiu3w.jpg


The Official Wide Tire Thread-drm2os4.jpg


This is how she sits at the moment. Currently getting a full 8 point cage put in
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Old Mar 14, 2015 | 06:30 AM
  #683  
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How would it not clear any better than a 275/35? The 30 sidewall with extra width would handle better and squirm less than your 9.5 35 setup.
Originally Posted by deeman101
I got a lot more than just the wheel clearance done but I'd guess that would cost $1500 to $2k.




I would....if there were wheels with high offset that I was interested in. The wheels I would want in 18x10.5 are all low offset.




That would not clear any better than 275 on 18x10.5. But would have tire bulge that would take away from handling sharpness.
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Old Mar 15, 2015 | 09:07 AM
  #684  
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Originally Posted by Grimgrak
How would it not clear any better than a 275/35? The 30 sidewall with extra width would handle better and squirm less than your 9.5 35 setup.


The tire would interfere in the same place it already does. It might clear better closer to the rim but by that point the camber curve increases sharply. Its hard to see with the overlay but 18x10 does have tire bulge. 10.5 has a slight stretch which makes things like turn in feel more taunt. I found it noticeable going 265 to 275 on 9.5 rim at least.
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Old Mar 16, 2015 | 06:39 AM
  #685  
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Originally Posted by NigHtcRawl3R
Thought I'd bump this thread up. Running 295/30, Enkei RPF1's 10.5 +15. I currently don't have enough material to start a build thread but thought I'd contribute to this thread.
Nonsense. A build like that deserves a build thread. Post it up if you get the time, because we'd all love to see it.
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Old Mar 23, 2015 | 10:09 AM
  #686  
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Does anyone here still have their fender liners up front with shaved rolled or spaced out front fenders? Im trying to figure out how to keep those tucked up after the fender has been altered. It seems most people simply remove the liner but I'd much prefer to leave it on there and massage it with a heat gun but Im not sure how its supposed to stay in place considering it attached to the fender in 2 places...
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Old Mar 23, 2015 | 11:58 AM
  #687  
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Somehow I think a 10mm drop in height will be more effective at reducing "squish" than the additional 10mm in width it brings.
Did you drop any sidewall height going from 265 to 275? Doesn't seem like it.
Originally Posted by deeman101


I found it noticeable going 265 to 275 on 9.5 rim at least.
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Old Mar 23, 2015 | 12:43 PM
  #688  
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
Does anyone here still have their fender liners up front with shaved rolled or spaced out front fenders? Im trying to figure out how to keep those tucked up after the fender has been altered. It seems most people simply remove the liner but I'd much prefer to leave it on there and massage it with a heat gun but Im not sure how its supposed to stay in place considering it attached to the fender in 2 places...
yep. just trimmed or reformed with heat gun.
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Old Mar 23, 2015 | 12:57 PM
  #689  
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So I get the reforming with heat and trimming but what was done to keep them tied to the actual fender up and out of the way? IIRC you said you had your fenders reshaped with a hammer and dolly?

This is why I was hesitant to cut them as I figured I would be cutting away the attachment point vs rolling it where there would still be a little lip to tuck up underneath. However I suck with body work and cracked my fender so I need to source a new one and figure out how Im going to make room. Dont want to break another one...
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 08:06 AM
  #690  
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Originally Posted by heel2toe
So I get the reforming with heat and trimming but what was done to keep them tied to the actual fender up and out of the way?
nothing. they just stay out of the way.
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